TheOldRaker

I'm going to grab a scope right now to have a look inside, I'll give you guys an update today.

Related, I went ahead an ordered new exhaust manifolds as well, since mine need replacing anyway. Figured you guys are most likely correct and I'll be pulling the head, so why not...

I've purchased these if anyone has comments or advice on the install.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GBE-48715

Thanks to everyone here!

redfishtd

Just have crank dot at six oclock , cam lobes facing per book on number 1 and 5 . Cams are fastened down in sequence a little at a time per ford, basically from the center outboard to not stress cam . I tighten each a little at a time until snug . Cams torque is around 8 foot pounds That's as near to 7.41 I could get . 89 inch pounds if you have that tool . I am confident that there is no stress on cams slowly compressing springs-- slowly sneaking up on torque settings . If it was that fragile it would not take the constant hammering during rotation .. Some mechanics pop the followers out with a screw driver and pop them back in same way and watch not scaring cam or dropping valve --neither appeals to me .
It is a little harder lining up chain as you are fighting valve springs , It helps to have some one with a socket on phaser bolt as you put on chain there is plenty of rotation available of cam to not harm anything . I believe that's why a mech by himself may chose to pull certain followers to make it easy . But in the vehicle that tool is a pain . Since you pulled cams you must have followed sequence anyway for removal and installation . Removing followers with that tool is a known danger dropping valve
No 1 is pass side near radiator ,no 5 is drivers side near radiator .I am not near my computer with my drawings on it .
Yes I think head bolts are one time use and are not easy to find .Good luck with it and keep us in the loop .

LariatDude

So just to clarify for me and others. You removed the cams, installed new lash adjusters and roller followers, THEN placed the cam onto the cam towers and tightened the cam on top of the roller followers? And did you take the chain off before or after you loosened the cam caps?

TheOldRaker

Not exactly that.

I removed a few roller followers, enough to be able to turn the crankshaft with a socket etc... removed all the timing stuff, removed the cam phasers with the OTC tool that locks the phasers in place, then removed the cam, removed the rest of the roller followers, removed all the lash adjusters

Then to install,
1. Installed the new lash adjusters,
2. installed the cam, torqued down etc.. checked that it spun.
3. installed all the rest of the timing parts, cam phasers etc... front cover as well
4. installed the roller followers with the OTC valve spring compression tool, got 23 in, on the 24th and last valve, I didn't push the valve down throughout the entire OTC tool tightening process and dropped the last valve into the head.

I went and bout a scope. Yup, valve is sitting on the piston. No chance that it's still in the hole that it fell from.

So at this point, I'm going to start removing parts until I get to the head. I'm not pulling the passenger head. If anyone has tips or links to great tutorials of how to pull a head, feel free to share. Otherwise, it's time to get dirty.

TheOldRaker

Well,

I tried messing around with magnets etc.. for a while and finally decided to attack the heads.. So far, I've drained the coolant, and got the intake manifold removed.

It's funny how this is all so frigging daunting and overwhelming the first time you do it, then I'm sure the second time, everything is familiar and easy. Really doing my best to not stress out here, and just take it bolt by bolt.

As always, thanks for everyone's comments, and thoughts on the matter... Also, headers should be here in a few days, so at least that's exciting.

redfishtd

Crank at six ,cam lobes facing 1and 5 per ford drawing. Remove tensioners ,Remove chains ,remove cam phasers using phaser holding toothed tool .. Lift cams using sequence in ford book slowly each bolt . At this point you may move crank but leave it when finished at six dot ,cams are out-- no valves down . Best if plugs out with rags in holes .
Replace all rollers and followers .crank still at six put cam in facing lobes on 1 and 5 per book ,slowly tighten bolts on cam a little each time in sequence until torquing time and sneak up on 8 foot pounds of torque .(89) inch pounds if you have same . Of course you watch rollers stay in position, I had no problem with any of that . So now put chain on ,it helps if you have a second set of hands to put socket on phaser bolt to line up links as you put chain on . There are plenty of degrees of play to do this . Now you pull grenade pins on tensioner . Then when done turn crank by hand 32 mm socket over crank keyway two full turns clockwise with no valve to piston contact .But now you have lost alignment marks .If not sure start over. You should have triple checked before you moved crank .

TheOldRaker

Here's a dumb question, once I get the head off, and get the dropped valve out.... How do I compress the spring back down on to the head and reinstall the valve, and "valve-keepers"? Since I won't have a cam in place to use the OTC compression tool? Should I just bolt the cam in for a minute in order to use the OTC tool?

I'm sure someone is laughing at my ignorance here, but I'm just doing my best..

dukedkt442

Pick up a valve spring compressor from autoparts store (you could probably just rent one for free... Advance and AZ offer free loaners). I haven't personally did it on these engines, but I'm assuming compressing spring enough to get the washer and keeps back in place. Spring pressure keeps the keepers locked in position.

3 angle valve job while the head's off??? At least the head off will make getting those broken studs out 1000x easier.

TheOldRaker

Does everyone here think that I broke a manifold stud off already? Or have all of you broken studs during exhaust manifold replacements?

Is there a generic valve spring compressor tool? I'm assuming this is different than the OTC Ford 3v F150 specific compressor?

dukedkt442

I'm assuming one has broken before you even touched it; they all do. Mine has 1 broken at each side that I "fixed" by slapping full of JB weld (didn't want to deal with pulling the manifolds).

There are generic OHV spring compressor tools... I've even made them in the past when needed... just need some way of compressing the spring around the valve stem.