Johnjames

I changed out the regulator and motor still the same. bought both driver and rear door switches still does not want to roll up. checked to see if there was power both ways and the was.. dont know where else to look.

Mod (Ret.)

Bad replacement motor would be my guess, unless something is binding upon the reassembly of the regulator install. Glass going down is the easy part, as the weight of the glass helps with this part. It's the "up" part that puts the most strain in the motor and regulator.

Check the track the glass slides between for any binding; check the rubber or felt seals at the sides.

Ricardo79

Failed down while trying to just crack the window down enough to let some heat out. Kept driving itself down. Tried going back up nothing put the relay clicking on that side. Disconnected the battery thinking it could be reset etc. Well it did not and I couldn’t leave like that while traveling so o took the brand new door apart. Checked voltages all good tried jumping the pins at the motor nothing. Touched the motor it was HOT! Let it cool down pulled the 4 screws that hood it in the regulator and got the enclosure off and this thing was shorted out. Armatures looked like they’re been beat on with a ball peen hammer. It drives a screw drive like a auger to turn the wheel in the regulator. So I pushed in the motor with out the enclosure and rotated it by hand till the window was in the full up position and put a lil preload on it as it wants to push back out of the regulator without the cover installed. Then bolted the cover back on and left the connector off. Saved! Now to dealership for some warranty negotiations …

Unlimited HP

I had the same thing happen to the rear passenger side window on my 2004 Lariat. The window would go down but not up. I pulled the rubber conduit from the B pillar and slid it towards the door and found both wires to the regulator broken. There’s very little room in that thing so I don’t think the wires can move (my guess) but it created enough of a resistance to interfere raising the window. I repaired it by getting some multiple strand wire (the more strands the more flexible the wire), stripping back the insulation from the existing wires and installing enough of the new wire so either end was not inside that rubber conduit. I stuffed the crimp connectors into the B pillar and the door. Ten years later it still works.

Highlyhated

Have you tried cleaning your contacts on your switch? That’s what was wrong with my back two doors clean my contacts work perfectly.

Jimboy

Johnjames,

What was the fix?

manicmechanic007

+1 for Unlimited HP's suggestion to check for broken wires inside the boots
Drivers door is the most common breakage point IMO
Check both doors
007

tbear853

Power for all the door window motors goes through the driver's door first to hit the lock out switch. I've had my drivers switches out a couple times to clean the contacts of black residue that builds up, high current and at the moment of contact, momentarily like welding temps leaves the stuff. I will lightly lube with a lube intended for electric switch contacts,