redfishtd

Jumping time usually takes awhile unless it was a little to far off in the beginning
I am a self checker as I know always suspect my own work first . I hope you have cleaned that fuel system out and have fresh fuel .
Your tune for the pcm must be in charge of your pulse width . His computer would have been looking at the electrical pulse to the injector ,he can't easily see a jammed or leaking injector . Does this engine use a tuner?
If you think it's out of time I guess you will have to pull covers . I guess your mechanic said it might be out of sync .
You said something about vacuum lines ,I wonder about your intake runner control behind your throttle body . Still I don't think that would stop it from starting. I had to make my own smoke machine out of a paint can to find my vacuum leaks .
I don't know how this paint on a throttle body might effect the mechanical operation .
On the timing did you carefully keep the chain on the non -tensioner side tight . Were the cam lobes on 1 and 5 faced in the correct position . Did the cam phasors end up with the R up on the passenger side L up on drivers side . No 1 is passenger side front . no 5 is drivers side front .
Are you keeping the gear dot on crank at six o'clock not the key way . You wouldn't be the first to get one side 180 degrees out .
Its a pretty engine I hope it gets to running good . It should run even if it throws some codes .

ng8264723

The engine was built by a gentleman that builds engines for me. I have several different cars. I have not got the car back from the dealer yet. It was at one shop from July 2016 until April when it went to the dealer. This truck has been a nightmare. Last summer I was working so much I had zero time. So I dropped it off at a shop to get fixed. The guys was a putz and didn't do a freakin thing. Everytime I called him he said he was checking **** but in the end did nothing. I then had it sent to Tasca Ford for repair and the manager Dennis Gomes claimed he could fix it. He did say he might take a while. 2.5 months later he told me the above information. I will bring it home this week and tear into it next weekend. I am not sure why the injector pulse is long. That would definitely flood it. It left my house not running with perfect oil. So this is something the dealer and the first guy did. That said I will drain the oil and pull the plugs. Draining the gas is a little tough on these truck since there is not a drain plug. I am not pulling that tank again that sucked last time. It currently has a stock tune in it. He put that tune back in it. The coils were getting a very weak ground when I had it last summer and I was convinced that the spark was nonexistent. The positive was a full 12 volts. When I get it back I will crank it and try my spark plug tester to see if they fire at all. IF they are and the pulse width is off it is probably timing. It is very frustrating. I have built and installed many engines and never had this much trouble. I swore it was electrical but at this point I do not know. As I said the ford guy told me it was flooded and could be just bad spark plugs... That really does not make sense to me but he said he has seen it with new Shelbys and they need to change the plugs to get them running again. I honestly don't know. The other item is I have the cheap coils but what is the chance they are all bad? I could buy new coils and plugs and change the oil and see if it starts....

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

First things first I would do a hard reset on everything you think you know.
Long injector pulsewidth? Ok I get that, but is the ECU tuned?
Is the ECU even functioning? Put the Roush tune back on the ECU and at least start this hunt like nothing's wrong..
There are probably 100 variables to consider but I would highly advise a good once over on this motor for broken sensors, faulty or disconnected, vacuum leaks, FRPS tests, yada yada yada.. There is just no way I would start blaming injectors with as little info and introspection that you have.
It sounds like you have an ignition problem at my first guess, so I would take a hard look and do some spark tests, and go ahead and just buy 8 new coils. MSD or accel coils are fine.
Make sure you have HT0 plugs installed and not sp515's and make sure the MAF is plugged in putting out a signal.
Watching a few PID's on your tuner will start to build a case..
I too have a whipple on a new reman motor and my truck ran great from the first fire on. Including several upgrades, and I did swap out some sensors like the knock sensors, and camshaft position sensors just to eliminate any feedback disparities or sluggish sensor responses. This included the front 02 sensors as well. It's nice to know you have good, known working spares within easy reach anyway

ng8264723

The computer was set back to factory. I do have a baseline tune I can add to get her running. Ford tried a brand new OCM set back to stock and had the same issues. What is wrong witht he sp515's? I do not remember what I installed. What are HTO's?

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

HT0 plugs are a cooler heat range than stock sp515's. It should make no difference which plug is in there to get you up and running, but when boosting, that cooler HT0 plug can handle heat much better by staying cooler.. the only downside to a cooler heat range plug, if any, is they take a hair bit longer to warm up at a cold start.

I'd reboot what ever tune you got to the ECU, and check for spark before anything else.
This can be dangerous, but testing for spark can be as simple as putting a nail in the cop boot, holding it near metal and watch for an arch while cranking Good odds of getting zapped that way tho, so either get a test Light or at least a simple voltage tester and get it close to the cop boot
If you have spark then yank the plugs and swap in some new ones.. HT0 plugs are hard to find over the counter, so you want to plan ahead and order some up.

If for whatever reason she's got spark and fuel, the next place I'd be looking is at the TPS sensor and throttle body.. A dead throttle body or tps will cause a no start..

ng8264723

Are these the ones you recommend?

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Yessir those are them.
Make sure you order up 8 cops, I've got no issues with accell coils on my rig. All 8 will eliminate any ignition variable and it's money well spent given your plug and cop situation..

ng8264723

I could test the TPS with a voltmeter correct?
The throttle body either works or not correct? Isn't it just basically a flapper? The TPS changes variables in the computer. That I understand.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

The TB is a stepper motor to move the plate, and 2 TPS sensors that reference each other. They control idle to full throttle and shifting.
you can test the big TPS for a smooth and fluid voltage increase and decrease.
Or just watch your TPS as a pid on a tuner..

ng8264723

The motor in the TB works well. That I know. I hooked up the spring wrong originally and it still started fine. It would just idle until I figured that out. Their are two TPS's?