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Vise grip didn't hold and the cam rolled, did I mess up a valve?
I doubt it @JArthur. I don't mean to make light of it in any way - and try to avoid it again. Just move the cam back where it was (close visually close enough to align colored chain links). I suspect it would require some considerable force (with a wrench on the phaser bolt) to actually 'bend' a valve or damage a piston or something.
That is NOT the case by moving the crankshaft. The angle & leverage available from the crankshaft throws can multiply forces many times. I would think you can bend a valve without even realizing it by moving the Crankshaft.
But with what you describe, I think you are fine. Just continue carefully.
Thanks a ton, also found a lot of black chain rail pieces under the timing cover, tried to put them together and see if I had all the pieces but nope, looks like oil pan will be coming off as well. Good thing I love my truck...lol also didn't find one of the screens off of the passenger side VCT, so more reason to have a look in there....
And that was to clean the VCT bodies out . I had flushed the engine and no screens were missing . Luckily I got away with it .
You have the timing cover off now so the front 4 bolts on oil pan are the real pains anyway ,you must have them out . The rest of the pan bolts are easy.
Here again gasket reusable but the metal joints must have a dab of rtv applied in order to seal . Valve covers /timing cover the same .
My impact was too long and not powerful enough . So I took some flat bar and case hardened bolts and solved the problem for me . I made it so I could slide pipe on it to jam it wherever I needed it. Another reason I made it was to be able to do the 2 step torque on per ford instructions .
I used the old bolt without the washer to start pulley on then put the new bolt with washer on when the threads would reach .
I ground the center to be able to get socket on .
what is that 2 step torque process in case I can't drive it home with my impact? Ford tech vid he uses old bolt and washer and drives it flush then only one torque to specs with new bolt/washer. Nice tool, you're a better man than me
I doubt it @JArthur. I don't mean to make light of it in any way - and try to avoid it again. Just move the cam back where it was (close visually close enough to align colored chain links). I suspect it would require some considerable force (with a wrench on the phaser bolt) to actually 'bend' a valve or damage a piston or something.
That is NOT the case by moving the crankshaft. The angle & leverage available from the crankshaft throws can multiply forces many times. I would think you can bend a valve without even realizing it by moving the Crankshaft.
But with what you describe, I think you are fine. Just continue carefully.
Already flipping out on this p steering pump. Got the 2 hard angle ones out and the one underneath was actually missing, just an open hole, thank God no broken bolt left inside but I can't figure out what else is holding this thing up. My Haynes manual says 4 bolts but can't understand the arrows. I'm hoping I don't have to take any pressure lines off. I do see bolt near the front that is blocked by a line but I'm not sure. The vids I watched were 3 bolts and pump should come loose. I'm at a snag for now so Ill jump to the pass side valve cover for now. Thanks
Already flipping out on this p steering pump. Got the 2 hard angle ones out and the one underneath was actually missing, just an open hole, thank God no broken bolt left inside but I can't figure out what else is holding this thing up. My Haynes manual says 4 bolts but can't understand the arrows. I'm hoping I don't have to take any pressure lines off. I do see bolt near the front that is blocked by a line but I'm not sure. The vids I watched were 3 bolts and pump should come loose. I'm at a snag for now so Ill jump to the pass side valve cover for now. Thanks
There is 2 bolts on top, and one on the bottom back side that has a stud sticking out of it. after that, it comes out kind of hard due to some sleeves that go into the block around the bolts. Feel around the bottom back for a stud that is actually a bolt.
There is 2 bolts on top, and one on the bottom back side that has a stud sticking out of it. after that, it comes out kind of hard due to some sleeves that go into the block around the bolts. Feel around the bottom back for a stud that is actually a bolt.
I've felt around, got underneath and don't see or feel any stud. I think it might be missing. There is a hole next to the wire that runs underneath. I'll look again, maybe just have to give it a tap
I think that 3rd stud/bolt is MIA and I poked a wire in what I think is the threaded hole where it goes and was clean and no broken bolt. Still cant budge the thing so started working on the pass side and couldn't get the valve cover past some of the stuff. I didn't remove ac parts so its tight. was at it 8 plus hrs today and am beat up. If I don't make good headway tomorrow then I'm going to make a judgement call. I'm out of town for a week and back to work when I'm back. I left this week for getting this done. Don't have half the right tools. Weak compressor, no cam phaser tool and so on and yes turning those freaking long power steering pump bolts a hair at a time with a wrench drove me insane and the thing still isn't off. Theres a good chance I might be towing this to my mechanic that was going to do the job and say " here is my box of used and new parts, I did the hard work, talk to you later". I'm feeling pressured and did some staring at the motor today too. Again, props to anyone who completed this job. Its tough. At least theres no rain in the forcast
06-25-2017, 10:16 PM
