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Don't mind your asking - anything. We are all here to help, with both our successes and F*@#$^-ups.
Actually I got both 24 Lash Adjusters (#900941, $179.00) and 24 Roller/Followers #900942, $179.00) from MMR (Modular Motorsports Racing) - partly because I also bought their metal/racing tensioner arms with ware guides (see photo). They were very responsive to my concerns because I had read (HORROR tales) about 2004 'requiring' a different lash adjuster from ALL other models or you would 'trash the engine'. One of their engine builders actually called me and 'assured' me that he had used the #900941 parts in many '04 5.4l engines with no problem. I have recommended them several times with no negative feedback. It has proven to be correct for me so far (13,500 miles - running perfect).
Still cannot figure WHY somebody don't make some Bilit aluminum guides with plastic/nylon wear guides build on them like these tensioner arms. But to my knowledge, they still don't.
MMR (ModularMotorsportsRacing) - metal tensioner arms
Last edited by F150Torqued; 06-20-2017 at 05:19 PM.
Reason: Make damn photo work
You definitely can do it. I did it in my parents driveway a few years back over a Spring Break. However, I never did get the oil pan to stop leaking again. When I was taking the phaser off of the drivers side, the cam slipped. I just about died in the driveway. Bolted everything back up, and followed the ford tech video on timing the engine and it ran perfect. Follow the torque procedure on the valve covers as well, if you don't it WILL leak. Speaking from experience because I started it up and got smoke because it was spraying oil on my exhaust. We also changed the radiator (twice) because the wrong bolt got put in the fan shroud and screwed through the radiator once, the second we undid the "quick connects" not realizing how they are and stripped them out. Spent around $1300 in parts, and learned A LOT about that engine. At this time I had a level and 35x12.5 tires, so it was pretty high up there.
You definitely can do it. I did it in my parents driveway a few years back over a Spring Break. However, I never did get the oil pan to stop leaking again. When I was taking the phaser off of the drivers side, the cam slipped. I just about died in the driveway. Bolted everything back up, and followed the ford tech video on timing the engine and it ran perfect. Follow the torque procedure on the valve covers as well, if you don't it WILL leak. Speaking from experience because I started it up and got smoke because it was spraying oil on my exhaust. We also changed the radiator (twice) because the wrong bolt got put in the fan shroud and screwed through the radiator once, the second we undid the "quick connects" not realizing how they are and stripped them out. Spent around $1300 in parts, and learned A LOT about that engine. At this time I had a level and 35x12.5 tires, so it was pretty high up there.
Don't mind your asking - anything. We are all here to help, with both our successes and F*@#$^-ups.
Actually I got both 24 Lash Adjusters (#900941, $179.00) and 24 Roller/Followers #900942, $179.00) from MMR (Modular Motorsports Racing) - partly because I also bought their metal/racing tensioner arms with ware guides (see photo). They were very responsive to my concerns because I had read (HORROR tales) about 2004 'requiring' a different lash adjuster from ALL other models or you would 'trash the engine'. One of their engine builders actually called me and 'assured' me that he had used the #900941 parts in many '04 5.4l engines with no problem. I have recommended them several times with no negative feedback. It has proven to be correct for me so far (13,500 miles - running perfect).
Still cannot figure WHY somebody don't make some Bilit aluminum guides with plastic/nylon wear guides build on them like these tensioner arms. But to my knowledge, they still don't.
MMR (ModularMotorsportsRacing) - metal tensioner arms
Biggest thing to do is read all you can, and do it if you're comfortable. If you're not comfortable with it DO NOT DO IT. It really comes down to what you're comfortable with doing yourself, and what you'd rather pay someone else to do. It's possible to do yourself with tools laying around the garage, but that doesn't mean just anyone should attempt it. Just make sure you're comfortable doing it and you'll be alright.
Also, pictures are your friend. Take some as you're tearing down to help you remember and line all the hoses and such up when you reassemble.
Biggest thing to do is read all you can, and do it if you're comfortable. If you're not comfortable with it DO NOT DO IT. It really comes down to what you're comfortable with doing yourself, and what you'd rather pay someone else to do. It's possible to do yourself with tools laying around the garage, but that doesn't mean just anyone should attempt it. Just make sure you're comfortable doing it and you'll be alright.
Also, pictures are your friend. Take some as you're tearing down to help you remember and line all the hoses and such up when you reassemble.
If I was real comfortable doing it I wouldn't be here. ha. Its just the unknown that's all. I"ll attempt anything once. Heck, I painted my 99 F150 in my back yard.
The reason lots of guys pull cams is just to check/inspect the roller - followers and lash adjusters. They cannot be easily checked for loose roller bearings etc without removing them. Also, lifters (though very hard to conclusively test) can't be tested without removal - and at least soaking them down/cleaning and re-oiling them would be a good idea depending on miles. They are the source of lots of 'ticking' complaints.
Also cam bearing caps / surfaces should be cleaned visually checked. It's actually easier to remove caps & cams than to wrangle roller/followers out and back in with cams in place. I replaced ALL my lash adjusters and roller/followers and have NEVER regretted doing so. I put everything back together by just 'gently' setting rollers in place and 'very gently' setting cams back on them, then tightening down cam caps a little bit at a time up and down the journals. (Of course that all happens before putting phasers / chains back on anyway)
And yes - both phasers are identical. Just run 180 degrees out of phase.
BTW: Check your PMs for a belated Father's day present!
Correct me if I am wrong you are saying I don't have to remove the roller/followers to do the chains and phasers, vct's? This is the only thing I am worried really about is messing those up as I don't have access to the spring compressor. If I would take spark plugs out I won't have issues with compression.
You do not "HAVE to" remove roller/followers to do the chains and phasers. That is why many use vice grips on cam (non-lobe surfaces) to hold cams in position while chains are off.
Removing certain Roller/followers is part of the "Recommended" procedure ONLY to relieve valve spring force on the CAM that 'fights' you pretty damn strong while trying to align colored chain links on the phasers timing marks. It just about takes TWO persons to do it (at least it did me). But one person can, with a breaker bar/socket on the cam bolt - move the cam (only a few degrees against the valve spring tension) and get the chain to line up.
If the 'Recommended' roller/followers are removed, the cam is relaxed and will move forward/backward freely several degrees.
I Hated the damn spring tool - threw the cumbersome thing across the garage - and just removed cams to replace all lash adjusters & followers. In the end, I was glad I did. Then I got a friend to help me when chains went on. /// just important to MAKE SURE CAM ORIENTATION is same going back on as when it came off, so it doesn't have to be rotated but a little bit (10-15 degrees) against spring tension to get chains on///.
-----Edit
You mentioned having plugs out / compression. That is a different subject (and a good idea). But, set engine position correct before removing chains and DO NOT move crankshaft while chains are off.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 06-21-2017 at 10:06 AM.
Reason: Another thought
I myself have yet to do the job, but my brother and a relative have, the one thing I have learned from them is on the pass side head be sure to have the chain slack at the bottom, not the top. When my brother did his the videos wasn't as plentiful and complete as now and he let the slack be at the top so when it tensioned the cam went out of time. About 2 weeks ago I had a relative stop by and he said him and his son was doing it and had it all buttoned up ready to start, I asked if the timing was correct and explained about the pass side chain.....he said yep all was good, ok good deal......next day he stops by and first words was yeah your right we have a cam code right head, tore it down and re-timed all was good. Just helping from what I have entailed both people would say they would do it again if need be, so tear into the worst can happen is redo it again....lol......
Valve spring torque force is pushing the passenger phaser timing mark toward the passenger side fender (counter clockwise) - pulling the top of the chain taught, with any slack appearing on the lower side.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 06-21-2017 at 11:28 AM.
06-20-2017, 05:08 PM
