Originally Posted by redfishtd

Just Set cams 1 and 5 facing correctly .and 6 oclock crank gear dot , mark your non lobe cam surface with the head for reference.You don't need to look for any marks on chains . Take chains off or take phasors off with chains on using vise grips,It is best to get phasors off before you pull cams , pull cams by loosening bolts a little at a time from the center out . But remember all cam journals must be marked and go back exactly where they came out .
The reason you manually check 2 clockwise revs of the crank is to make sure you didn't make a big mistake, 2 turns makes a complete 4 stroke cycle. .Some people are not good at self checking and double checking . Others go in here and just throw it together without due care by taking it too lightly . If you have piston to valve contact it is not going to turn . If you started it like this you would bend a valve /put hole in piston . That is the biggest fear when doing timing job . I would never skip this test .
Foreign cars use a timing belt, failure to change it around 60k runs the risk of breaking it and damaging all the pistons and valves .
Like I said I prefer the toothed phasor holding tool , you have to use it at least 4 times during this job . But you can use vise grips or do like f150t says with old chain .
The reason we advise setting the timing points up before you take chains off is to prevent getting into a position of pushing a valve into a piston . Even if it was out of time it isn't far enough to get into trouble so what if it jumped 2-4 teeth .You have to be off quite a ways for any serious trouble . That's why your cam reference marks are just a guide, your colored links and setup will correct any jump you might have had . My reference marks told me that mine had jumped time . They did not quite line up when I put the new chains on correctly. Plus you have to realise chains wear stretch .
If you are going to use vise grips keep in mind your reference marks could get removed by them .
I guess you are beginning to see there is more than one way to do this job . That expensive roller removal tool is for one guy with no help trying to make it so there is no spring tension as he is installing chains . Not worth it at all .
I believe once you get a good start a lot of your concerns will fall in place . The fear of the unknown is worse than the real thing .

Originally Posted by Tommy J

Yep, was going to set timing before removing chains and I'm taking all spark plugs out too. Will that affect my last check when I hand rotate 2 turns. Also am I hearing you right by saying not only do the colored links have to line up but the marked cam spots? That's whats confusing me the most. I understand the cam marks are a guide so if they are a little off when the new chains go on is that ok?

Originally Posted by redfishtd

Just Set cams 1 and 5 facing correctly .and 6 oclock crank gear dot , mark your non lobe cam surface with the head for reference.You don't need to look for any marks on chains . Take chains off or take phasors off with chains on using vise grips,It is best to get phasors off before you pull cams , pull cams by loosening bolts a little at a time from the center out . But remember all cam journals must be marked and go back exactly where they came out .
The reason you manually check 2 clockwise revs of the crank is to make sure you didn't make a big mistake, 2 turns makes a complete 4 stroke cycle. .Some people are not good at self checking and double checking . Others go in here and just throw it together without due care by taking it too lightly . If you have piston to valve contact it is not going to turn . If you started it like this you would bend a valve /put hole in piston . That is the biggest fear when doing timing job . I would never skip this test .
Foreign cars use a timing belt, failure to change it around 60k runs the risk of breaking it and damaging all the pistons and valves .
Like I said I prefer the toothed phasor holding tool , you have to use it at least 4 times during this job . But you can use vise grips or do like f150t says with old chain .
The reason we advise setting the timing points up before you take chains off is to prevent getting into a position of pushing a valve into a piston . Even if it was out of time it isn't far enough to get into trouble so what if it jumped 2-4 teeth .You have to be off quite a ways for any serious trouble . That's why your cam reference marks are just a guide, your colored links and setup will correct any jump you might have had . My reference marks told me that mine had jumped time . They did not quite line up when I put the new chains on correctly. Plus you have to realise chains wear stretch .
If you are going to use vise grips keep in mind your reference marks could get removed by them .
I guess you are beginning to see there is more than one way to do this job . That expensive roller removal tool is for one guy with no help trying to make it so there is no spring tension as he is installing chains . Not worth it at all .
I believe once you get a good start a lot of your concerns will fall in place . The fear of the unknown is worse than the real thing .

Originally Posted by Tommy J

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I understand the cam marks are a guide so if they are a little off when the new chains go on is that ok?

Originally Posted by redfishtd

You have to use it to remove 2 phasors one one each side , then put the 2 new ones on each side . That's 4 steps ,sorry for the confusion .

Originally Posted by F150Torqued

Scanning over several recent posts it seems you have a good handle on the task at hand.


It would be a real coincidence if the engine were set 'perfectly' in the same orientation it would be with all new phasers / chains / tensioners installed. (New tensioners are even going to put more tension on chains too.) So - chances are, any marks on cams would only be 'close' to where they were - and that's OK.


I placed a mark from cam to journal NO 1 (On Bank1) and from cam to journal NO 2 (On Bank2). More to keep from getting cams mixed up between banks than anything else. I 'REALLY' didn't pay that much attention how close they were on completion other than making sure the right cam was on the right bank. I think it would give an indication if the engine had JUMPED timing by a tooth or two. BUT the paramount thing on re-assembly is that those three timing marks (Crank dot, "R" & "L" on phasers are aligned with colored chain links) and it's not that confusing or complicated - before the engine is rotated.

All the caution and double checking - is mainly because once you rotate the engine you loose all the alignment reference of colored links / timing marks. Trying to double check your work then (((WHICH YOU WILL PROBABLY WISH YOU COULD - ONE MORE TIME)) is CONFUSING. The ONLY way to verify timing then is to 'COUNT' _exactly_ thirty links (both ways, on either bank) between Phaser gear timing marks to the crank sproket dot, NOT counting the link straddling the Crank sprocket DOT. (That's a pita, but it works).

Originally Posted by Tommy J

Slight concern. I had trouble with the crankshaft pulley bolt. Could'nt get it with my air tool so tried to shock it with an extension and hammer. hit it a few times and then realized it had moved counter clockwise from 12 to about 10. Did I mess anything up. I did end up getting it with the air tool. I also hope its strong enough to put that bolt back in the ford tech way to drive the pulley home and then torque to specs. Props to you guys for doing this job. I was at it for about 4 hrs and I'm hurting. became real good friends with the hood latch and don't know how I'm gonna torque those hard to get back valve cover bolts. I mean the pulley moved, not the bolt initially. Hope my air tool is strong enough to clarify. My brain is fried