DIY SCAB system help!
#31
Sgt Shawshank
check out some resonance enginering subs i have no clue if they make one that will fit under your seat but my buddy has 2 12's in a ported box in the back of his svt focus pushed by a 1200 watt RMS amp yes i said 1200 watt RMS and with the bass set at 0 on his stock head unit and volume about 10 they make your ears hurt after to long and the sound really nice at lower levels so if your looking to blow the socks off someone or just feel a little of the music you listen to i'd check them out
http://www.reaudio.com/index.php
http://www.reaudio.com/index.php
Last edited by Seth; 01-06-2012 at 12:01 AM. Reason: added the link bro!
#32
I had some RE Audio SE-X 12's. Those got loud. No they won't fit under the rear seat. The q-logic box has a max depth of 5.5", you need to watch the mounting depth on the 10's, many are very close to 5.5 or more.
For interconnects and power wire I like the knukoncepts stuff. No complaints here on it.
For interconnects and power wire I like the knukoncepts stuff. No complaints here on it.
#34
Looks like I see the memphis logo...memphis is the same company as crossfire, I know you could send the crossfire amps in and for $100-$150 they would repair them. That was on the 1000D's though...and they could also be built to work on a 16v electrical system. Sometimes I miss those crossfire amps.
#35
I have a few crossfire amps from my car audio days back in high school and I've sent a few back to get worked on they were the cfa models and they would charge 75$ per amp and warranty them for a year. I'd call Memphis and ask how much to get it repaired!
#36
Originally Posted by RaiderH8r89
As long as you get the right sized speaker, it just mounts in the same spot, no cutting or modifying needed.
I have a few quick questions...
I was confused about what to get for the back speakers. I have a supercrew and on some threads some people said to use 5x7 an some people said 6x8. Which size works?
Also, for the installation, do I just need to take off the speaker coer or do I have to pry out the whole door panel?
#37
Either 5x7 or 6x8 will work. You may need to bent off the tabs you are not using. I bought the metra quick harnesses as I did not want to whack up the factory wiring, to do both front and backs is like 45min or so to disassemble and reassemble, piece of cake!
#38
Originally Posted by scobar
Either 5x7 or 6x8 will work. You may need to bent off the tabs you are not using. I bought the metra quick harnesses as I did not want to whack up the factory wiring, to do both front and backs is like 45min or so to disassemble and reassemble, piece of cake!
#39
Not sure about autozone. I ordered mine through amazon. They where like $7.95 a pair. I have prime so shipping is free. You can get these off of ebay as well.
The front is cake, under the arm rests on the door you can grab and pull the grill off.
On the back the parts that go up around the window pull off. On the bottom panel there are 2 screws, on the top after you take off the window surround there are 2 more screws. The cap pops off on the handles and there are 2 screws under there. I think there is one more screw somewhere in there and they slide right off(upwards) and that is it. I have some pics of mine pulled apart in my build thread.
The front is cake, under the arm rests on the door you can grab and pull the grill off.
On the back the parts that go up around the window pull off. On the bottom panel there are 2 screws, on the top after you take off the window surround there are 2 more screws. The cap pops off on the handles and there are 2 screws under there. I think there is one more screw somewhere in there and they slide right off(upwards) and that is it. I have some pics of mine pulled apart in my build thread.
#40
Got the box in but it was damaged so I sent it back. Forgot to measure it before I sent it, lol. The replacement should be in next week so I will be sure to measure and post when I install it.