lhill58

Noise is gone and praying that it stays that way. Oil pressure is much better as well but i still need to take it for a longer drive. I hate starting it for the first time until oil pressure gets up it sounds horrible. Just take your time and replace with ford parts.

scab05

Update:
Just got off the phone with Amazon and they are taking the dorman phasers off the website due to returns. I've got a factory set on the way from freedom racing tool and die, and I hope to have them replaced this week.

I would really like not to have to break the AC line again to get the passenger cover off ($40 worth of refrigerant) , so any help here would be appreciated.

3 times in now (third time's a charm) lesson learned. Don't buy cheap aftermarket parts and don't buy Chinese crap.

06_F150

I was able to get the valve cover off by loosening the bracket on the accumulator and pulling it up slightly. You then have to turn the valve cover to the "magic" angle and it will come off. Going back on is a lot easier. I have done this twice. Having said that I don't necessarily like it.

I am trying to decide now if I just replace the tensioners or if I go for the whole thing again. As far as I know both of my phasers are locking now I just have the tensionser bleeding down.

06_F150

Good, I hope your done. If you hold the pedal to the floor the engine won't start and you can spin it over until the oil primes. What kind of oil gauge do you have? Going to tear it down and just replace the tensioners unless I find something.

scab05

I may have missed it, but do you have the Ford phasers or the Dorman? Glad to hear you're up and running

lhill58

Thanks, I remember now reading about that on here to hold the pedal down but forgot. Just picked up an oil gauge from Pepboys last year forgot the name was going to get autometer but didn't want to spend that much at the time.

lhill58

Dorman

06_F150

Can you post a picture of the front of the factory phasers when you get them in? I am curious as to how the pick up wheel (reluctor) is attached. The original ford one I had had roll pins and one was missing and this was causing the knock sound. I think they have made improvements.

I feel your pain good luck.

lhill58

So I still have my Dorman phasers and when I had the cover off the reluctor plate would turn with the rest of the phaser and cam so does that mean its locking? When I first started turning the crank I thought I saw the reluctor hesitate for a moment then catch but couldn't get it to happen again. thought maybe it was because i was turning it so slow. wondering if the sound you guys heard from those bad phasers sounds similar to timing chain rattle or diesel knock?

06_F150

I could turn the motor over and the reluctor would turn like normal until the cam came up on a lobe, then the reluctor and cam would stay and the gear of the phaser would continue to move with the chain until the spring on the phaser wound up enough at which point the reluctor and cam would "spring" forward catching up to the gear. This sounds really loud and lasts longer than the chain noise. It had a Chung Chung Chung sound almost like a radial airplane motor starting. You hear the vanes of the phaser slapping when the spring unwinds.

If the locking pin is engaged there is almost no play between the gear and the reluctor. I thought mine was doing as you described but it looked like slack in the chain would build up so the whole phaser wouldn't turn if that makes sense.

I think I had/have two issues, one non locking dorman phaser (I took it apart the locking pin was stuck) and I this tensioner leak down. As far as I know the replacement phaser is good but I want to make sure when I tear it back down.

Let me know what you find out ill do the same