elricfate

If they don't know what you're talking about ask for an EP27 timed relay or someone else (it should be common knowledge which one is good for LEDs), that might help.

GigaFish

I recently did the same conversion to LEDs, and had the same issue with cruise, even with the LED flasher relay installed. In addition, my 3rd brake light would glow any time the key was on; not a huge deal but it bothered me for some reason. I went on eBay and purchased some "LED Load Resistors" (straight from China but they work).I wired it straight into the 3rd brake light with the included wire taps and then mounted it to the metal by where the light goes(behind the light). Make sure it's secure because these suckers get HOT and it would stink to have it burn through the headliner if it fell or slid around! If you don't feel comfortable or do not want to use the wire taps, there were some that included a 921 bulb plug on them, so all you'd have to do is plug it where the light bulb goes and then plug the bulb into the socket on the other end of the resistor's wiring harness. Hope this helps.

powerranger262

Hot enough to burn through the headliner? Sign me up. Sounds totally worth it.

Mod (Ret.)

A better way is to simply buy a third LED brake light settup with the load resister circuit built in. They are available. I have one made by Hella, that came with LED tail light assemblies.

elricfate

So first off, are you absolutely certain that you got a timed relay and not just a relabeled resistive relay with a lower load rating?

Second off, the bulbs sound like they weren't listed as "CANBUS error free", which matters. Cheap cheap bulbs don't have the extra voltage cutoff that the canbus error free ones do and they will glow as there is a minuscule load on the wire, at the bulb, at all times. It's like a voltage sensing current that the bulb doesn't recognize to block out so it trickles in.

As for using a relay AND using resistors, this is an absolute mistake. The point of the relay is so you don't need the resistors. The resistors just add a load to the line to mimic the load of a standard bulb. The LED bulb doesn't use that power so it gets wasted as heat radiating off the resistor heatsink. While I've used those in a vehicle that you absolutely couldn't get a relay for, I would never recommend them in a case where there's a much easier, much safer solution.

GigaFish

hah! I don't know if they actually would, but I don't really wanna find out!

Yes, it's an actual EP-27 LED compatible relay from Advance. No, they are not Can-Bus, because if I remember correctly all that means is that it has a resistor built in to limit that little bit of current that makes them glow.

elricfate

Then you got ripped off or yours is defective...

Right. Exactly what I said. It doesn't know enough to limit the current. Which can also be a problem that would cause the cruise control to be non-functional.

GigaFish

What is the difference in using a non can-bus LED and a resistor as opposed to using a can-bus if its only difference is an integrated resistor? Not trying to call you out or anything, I promise! Just learning
The EP-27 did work as designed when I installed my LED switchbacks, it stopped them from hyperflashing. I say we can just chalk it up to eBay LED bulbs haha!

Mod (Ret.)

If you go the way of installing a resistor, then it has to be removed if you ever install non LED bulbs. Best to buy the LED bulbs that have the load resistor built in; this way you can always used a non LED bulb as a temporary replacement. Either style bulbs work with the EP-27 flasher too.

elricfate

Here you go. This should give you an idea of why it's important to make sure there's absolutely no fault detected by the PCM. Which means using CANBUS bulbs.