Codes p0506 and p0301
 

So i just bought a 2005 F150 5.4L with 142k. It drives smooth despite sounding like a diesel. Today, p0506 and p0301 pops up. Still runs smooth, and nothing noticeable as far as RPM's while in idle. Is the cylinder 1 misfire causing the p0506? or the other way around?
Thanks in advance for any input!

Since this is a used truck, I was hoping to just do the normal stuff....
- Change rear differential fluid
- Change trans fluid and swap out oem pan with one with a drain plug (when i dropped the pan, this little plastic plug was inside. WTF is this thing? See the picture)
But, since it threw out the p0506 and p0301 codes, Im gonna go ahead and change the injectors/plugs/coils. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body too (which was pretty clean to my surprise). I pulled the injectors,and theyre pretty clean also. Looks like they were swapped with the updated injectors. I havent pulled the plugs yet.

Man, these Ford engineers stuck this motor in way into the damn firewall! It's a PIA to get to those rear injectors and plugs! It should be a requirement for Ford engineers to turn a wrench on their creation, then maybe there'll be more space in the engine bay to work! I mean, there's like 2 feet of space in the front of the motor, but the rear of the motor sinks into the damn firewall.... smh. And, how much would it cost Ford to put a simple drain plug in the damn trans pan?!?
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...d4985b3740.jpg
This was in the trans pan! WTF is this thing?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...2ef0b82678.jpg
Piss poor engineering to sink the rear of the motor into the firewall that far. Look at all that space up front.

Unplug and remove the computer (4 10mm bolts IIRC) and its bracket 3 (10 mm bolts IIRC) to buy yourself a lot more room for #3 and #4.

The diesel knock is due to your phasers (assuming NOT a rod knock), which is indicative of low oil pressure to the upper end, which itself is most likely due to blown out chain tensioner seals (hopefully not an engine full of sludge). Start saving, preparing for a timing rebuild, ~$1400. In the meantime, let truck sit overnight. Roll down both windows, radio off. Start it, and listen intently for a 2 second rattle at start up. If present, push your timing job to the top of the list, as that is your loose chain slapping against its guide, which will eventually shatter and fall into the pan clogging your oil pump pickup, if it hasn't already. Welcome to the club.

Edit: if no start-up rattle (or pronounced follower tick under the valve cover), you *may* be able to buy yourself some time by pulling and cleaning the VCT solenoids. They are located in the front of each valve cover, sticking up, you'll see wires and a plug going to them. Use only Ford parts.

and be sure to look at the cam caps and journals in the head. If those are scored then well you either need a new motor or cylinder head.

also make sure you only use Ford parts with the exception of the oil pump. Most members like the HV Melling.

Anybody have experience with these coils? They got good reviews on Amazon.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...c0e18683cf.jpg

Motor craft only or you will be doing the job all over

You're better off using Autozone coils; at least then, when they fail, they have a lifetime warranty and they'll be the last coils you'll ever have to buy, and convenient to exchange, back and running in an hour.