Centric brake rotors - So f**ing confused!
#11
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
I have the upgrade kit on my 05 screw lariat rwd
I have been happy with it for many miles . Need to get a new set of rotors soon . The rotors are satndard 4wd for this truck centric number is 120.65100. If you have 4wd drive already this 6 lug will fit . If your 7 lug then use chart
So basically after upgrade kit you can use the same lug rotor as any 4wd for that year .
So basically after upgrade kit you can use the same lug rotor as any 4wd for that year .
#12
Quick update -
Installed new parts last night.
Moog Hub assemblies
Motorcraft IWE actuators
Centric 125 series rotors
Hawk LTS brake pads
Noticed right off the bat, passenger side rotor was scored, as expected from the grinding. Both passenger side pads were completely gone, only the metal backing plate left. Driver side pads and rotor looked new. Friction material on pads were quite thick, although pad wear was uneven.
Had to replace the passenger caliper, one piston was seized - could not push back in, even with the bleeder screw removed. Took the caliper apart and one of the dust boots were torn, with rust around the edge of the bore. Most likely the cause for the uneven wear.
Installed new parts, checked overall rotor runout. 0.002" on driver side, 0.003" on passenger side.
After parts were installed, and bedding procedure was performed, the truck still vibrates when stopping at speeds higher than 40MPH. Not sure where to go from here.
EDIT:
For sake of completeness, all 4 ball joints probably need to be replaced. No popping is heard or felt when going over bumps, but the dust boots are torn. Passenger side Half-Shaft needs to be replaced as well. Outer tie-rod ends were not torn or leaking grease, but do appear weathered and dryrotted, with the associated surface cracking.
Installed new parts last night.
Moog Hub assemblies
Motorcraft IWE actuators
Centric 125 series rotors
Hawk LTS brake pads
Noticed right off the bat, passenger side rotor was scored, as expected from the grinding. Both passenger side pads were completely gone, only the metal backing plate left. Driver side pads and rotor looked new. Friction material on pads were quite thick, although pad wear was uneven.
Had to replace the passenger caliper, one piston was seized - could not push back in, even with the bleeder screw removed. Took the caliper apart and one of the dust boots were torn, with rust around the edge of the bore. Most likely the cause for the uneven wear.
Installed new parts, checked overall rotor runout. 0.002" on driver side, 0.003" on passenger side.
After parts were installed, and bedding procedure was performed, the truck still vibrates when stopping at speeds higher than 40MPH. Not sure where to go from here.
EDIT:
For sake of completeness, all 4 ball joints probably need to be replaced. No popping is heard or felt when going over bumps, but the dust boots are torn. Passenger side Half-Shaft needs to be replaced as well. Outer tie-rod ends were not torn or leaking grease, but do appear weathered and dryrotted, with the associated surface cracking.
Last edited by fuxxy; 02-11-2019 at 01:57 PM.
#13
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Quick update -
Installed new parts last night.
Moog Hub assemblies
Motorcraft IWE actuators
Centric 125 series rotors
Hawk LTS brake pads
Noticed right off the bat, passenger side rotor was scored, as expected from the grinding. Both passenger side pads were completely gone, only the metal backing plate left. Driver side pads and rotor looked new. Friction material on pads were quite thick, although pad wear was uneven.
Had to replace the passenger caliper, one piston was seized - could not push back in, even with the bleeder screw removed. Took the caliper apart and one of the dust boots were torn, with rust around the edge of the bore. Most likely the cause for the uneven wear.
Installed new parts, checked overall rotor runout. 0.002" on driver side, 0.003" on passenger side.
After parts were installed, and bedding procedure was performed, the truck still vibrates when stopping at speeds higher than 40MPH. Not sure where to go from here.
EDIT:
For sake of completeness, all 4 ball joints probably need to be replaced. No popping is heard or felt when going over bumps, but the dust boots are torn. Passenger side Half-Shaft needs to be replaced as well. Outer tie-rod ends were not torn or leaking grease, but do appear weathered and dryrotted, with the associated surface cracking.
Installed new parts last night.
Moog Hub assemblies
Motorcraft IWE actuators
Centric 125 series rotors
Hawk LTS brake pads
Noticed right off the bat, passenger side rotor was scored, as expected from the grinding. Both passenger side pads were completely gone, only the metal backing plate left. Driver side pads and rotor looked new. Friction material on pads were quite thick, although pad wear was uneven.
Had to replace the passenger caliper, one piston was seized - could not push back in, even with the bleeder screw removed. Took the caliper apart and one of the dust boots were torn, with rust around the edge of the bore. Most likely the cause for the uneven wear.
Installed new parts, checked overall rotor runout. 0.002" on driver side, 0.003" on passenger side.
After parts were installed, and bedding procedure was performed, the truck still vibrates when stopping at speeds higher than 40MPH. Not sure where to go from here.
EDIT:
For sake of completeness, all 4 ball joints probably need to be replaced. No popping is heard or felt when going over bumps, but the dust boots are torn. Passenger side Half-Shaft needs to be replaced as well. Outer tie-rod ends were not torn or leaking grease, but do appear weathered and dryrotted, with the associated surface cracking.
#14
Junior Member
I'm looking at replacing the wheel bearings and rotors on my 06 2wd, saw this conversion kit and was wondering if anyone has had them long term and still recommends them. I understand the benefit of not having to replace both the bearings and the rotors every time the bearings get worn, but is it really more beneficial than just pressing out the bearings and replacing them? Also, I saw one review that talked about having to replace the bearings in these after about 40k miles. That just seems like a hard sell to me when I can just pull the rotors & have the bearings replaced in them.
Also, if not the centric kit, which rotors would you recommend? Not looking for performance parts necessarily, but not bottom of the barrel either. I live in the South and launch a boat, so I want something that will not turn to rust quickly.
Also, if not the centric kit, which rotors would you recommend? Not looking for performance parts necessarily, but not bottom of the barrel either. I live in the South and launch a boat, so I want something that will not turn to rust quickly.
Last edited by rajncajn; 02-16-2022 at 11:41 AM.
#15
Senior Member
I have the Centrics and love them. The haven't warped, the bearings have held up and I can just replace the rotor when I need to.
I've got about 65k on them and about 7 years.
I've got about 65k on them and about 7 years.