hoc342

Have an 04 heritage and never done anything to the ac. Started couple yrs ago where it was cold when first turned on then about 10 minutes started to get warm. Took it to Ford for recharge and they vac the system to. Said my relay was burnt so mechanic popped in a new one still didn't kick in. Said compressor probably seized. I turned the clutch and it turns freely. Any help where to go next step would be greatly appreciated .

Nosajb15af

Turning the pulley over will not determine if the compressor is seized… The clutch is not engaged

Martian

Turn the compressor using the nut on the end of the clutch

techrep

iTrader: (1)

the clutch should turn freely when dis-engaged.. a sized compressor may have burnt the relay.

Martian

Guess it depends on the manufacturer. When I replaced mine, the instructions said to use that nut.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

If the clutch on the compressor did not spin freely when dis-engaged and the compressor sized-up.. it would tear up your belt.

ratatat

If the clutch plate spins freely and smoothly then more than likely it's not your compressor, but it looks like you've already figured that out. I think I'd evac system and leak test next.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

I guess you missed the part where he stated Ford already did this.

hoc342

This thing is mind boggling, will work when I first start up the truck and as long as I keep it on no problem. If I shut it off for about 10 minutes then it's not cold and won't kick in. Thanks for all your input. You guys are great. Love this place. Can't wait to hear.

vintageman

Just had a situation with my neighbors Jeep Patriot that I figured out last week. Starting it, the AC low pressure line got really cold as it should when the AC was turned on, after a few minutes, the line would get warm and the AC would stop blowing cold and blow warm air. Turned out to be the Ambient Air Temp Sensor, took almost a week and a half of troubleshooting and testing a crap load of wires for continuity and voltage. I checked the Ambient Temp Sensor and found that it had intermittent voltage that would cut off after a few minutes, I guess that the PCM was sending voltage to it, then was cutting voltage off after realizing that it was not functioning. Never got a code light on the dash at all. May be worth the try, the sensor shouldn't be much.
Good luck and hope you figure it out.
Tom