Vater

Hey guys , I've run into an issue. My driver side only front and rear breaks are locking up and not releasing until they cool off. Any ideas? I just think its weird being on one side like that?

650NutKase

Check the calipers for tears in the seals and/or brake fluid leaking from them. Brake fluid could also have too much moisture and is boiling. Rotors could be warped and not allowing the pads enough space to disengage. Are you feeling any vibrations when applying the brakes?

DarrinT04

^good info. how many miles are on truck?

Vater

190k miles. I have only owned vehicle since December. As far as vibrations go is awful once you feel the tug or resistance on the the left side of the vehicle. I was going to take my front caliper of the other say and check it. But when I realized that the rear on the same side was getting hot it did not make since to me.so I figured I'd hit you guys up. Rotors and pads could use a changing but nothing very noticeable wrong by my eyes anyway. I thought at first maybe it was the proportional valvle... but that is front and rear no side to side

dukedkt442

Calipers are locking; piston is either freezing in the bore from corrosion build up, or the slide pins are seizing. Before springing for new calipers, you can attempt some sand paper and antiseize to those respective places and may see positive results.

Vater

Thanks...I'll give that shot here in a fre

redfishtd

Both of my fronts went thru this intermittently causing some damage .It happens after a brake job ,pushing composite pistons back in after they have been out absorbing moisture seems to be the problem . I did the brake job myself and it was done right ,new rotors and pads ,lubed properly . I kept re-lubing and polishing but it still happened . The rotor and tire got so hot it would boil grease out of 2wd rotor bearing . The only fix was rebuilt calipers and that was 100k ago.
I also did not like the 2wd rotors and changing the 14 dollar one use axle nut torqued to 295 . So I went to the centric mod that makes it like the 4wd units . .I can use any 4wd rotor and the front wheel bearings are more substantial, no more removing nuts Those 2wd drive bearings had given me trouble in the first 60k, new oem . And I got a bad one to replace the defective one so that did it ,been happy since .
I am about to do another brake job at 202k ,new rotors and ceramic pads .I am flushing fluid dot 3 and putting new hoses on . Hoses can go bad and act like a check valve so that could cause your problem also .

gone postal

If they're the original calipers, the pucks in them have issues with breaking and binding in the caliper. Replace the calipers with ones with steel pistons and you should be fine.

carl292

This request may help the OP and myself, so i’ll ask here instead of a new thread.
Are there any write ups/how to’s on changing the brake lines and calipers?

Vater

I think I found the problem......hmmmm