Battery/alternator charging may be simple
12-23-2016, 05:42 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Battery/alternator charging may be simple
This is on a 2006 5.4 F-150
To start this I got a brand new battery and alternator put in by the local dealership about a year ago after taking it in for an oil change and they notice I have a battery light on... the light is p0622 generator field terminator circuit.... I just scanned it, normally I clear or delete it and the moment I get my stereo up it kicks the light back on... yes I have aftermarket subs and a capacitor... didn't really even need one because my headlights don't ever dim....
After they installed both battery and alternator they told me it wouldn't kick the light off and they will leave both of the new products in... for free, well I won't argue with that but I noticed every time I start my truck now my alternator won't kick in until I rev my engine to 3,000 Rpms or so... not specifically that amount but it has to get up there and it will charge my battery again... my battery sits at 11.5 v when it's shut off I notice because my capacitor behind my drive seat has a battery gauge as well as the instrument cluster shows it's slightly weak just below half. My headlights will be dim, noticeably dimmer at night and if I play music I usually have my subs shut off or cut out due to the lack of battery power too... not a huge deal I rev my engine and it starts to charge it just fine brings it right up to 13.5V, the battery gauge shows, as well as the instrument cluster raises above half, I can play music full blast, brights on, phone chargers, anything to cause the most draw on my battery while sitting at only an IDLE and it won't phase my truck AS LONG AS I REV IT 1 TIME just to initiate my alternator.... I never have any issues besides that my start ups during the winter been slightly weak lately not bad just a slight slower difference I know it could be my starter haven't investigated it too much... but I'm tired of embarrassingly having to rev my truck every time I start it at the store at home in town anything, draws attention and being a college kid doesn't help that it just looks like I'm trying to raise some hell and act stupid when really I'm just trying to get my alternator to kick on...
So if my alternator works at an idle, after i rev it of course, and I never have any issue after with headlights dimming or my battery going below 13.5... than it shouldn't be that...
And if my battery test good, while I have everything disconnected from the terminals, then that can't be it...
I know there is suppose to be a screw on the back or something to adjust an something with the alternator not sure if this is the case for me or even for my truck, I looked at it underneath it today and didn't see anything besides mounting bolts
To start this I got a brand new battery and alternator put in by the local dealership about a year ago after taking it in for an oil change and they notice I have a battery light on... the light is p0622 generator field terminator circuit.... I just scanned it, normally I clear or delete it and the moment I get my stereo up it kicks the light back on... yes I have aftermarket subs and a capacitor... didn't really even need one because my headlights don't ever dim....
After they installed both battery and alternator they told me it wouldn't kick the light off and they will leave both of the new products in... for free, well I won't argue with that but I noticed every time I start my truck now my alternator won't kick in until I rev my engine to 3,000 Rpms or so... not specifically that amount but it has to get up there and it will charge my battery again... my battery sits at 11.5 v when it's shut off I notice because my capacitor behind my drive seat has a battery gauge as well as the instrument cluster shows it's slightly weak just below half. My headlights will be dim, noticeably dimmer at night and if I play music I usually have my subs shut off or cut out due to the lack of battery power too... not a huge deal I rev my engine and it starts to charge it just fine brings it right up to 13.5V, the battery gauge shows, as well as the instrument cluster raises above half, I can play music full blast, brights on, phone chargers, anything to cause the most draw on my battery while sitting at only an IDLE and it won't phase my truck AS LONG AS I REV IT 1 TIME just to initiate my alternator.... I never have any issues besides that my start ups during the winter been slightly weak lately not bad just a slight slower difference I know it could be my starter haven't investigated it too much... but I'm tired of embarrassingly having to rev my truck every time I start it at the store at home in town anything, draws attention and being a college kid doesn't help that it just looks like I'm trying to raise some hell and act stupid when really I'm just trying to get my alternator to kick on...
So if my alternator works at an idle, after i rev it of course, and I never have any issue after with headlights dimming or my battery going below 13.5... than it shouldn't be that...
And if my battery test good, while I have everything disconnected from the terminals, then that can't be it...
I know there is suppose to be a screw on the back or something to adjust an something with the alternator not sure if this is the case for me or even for my truck, I looked at it underneath it today and didn't see anything besides mounting bolts
