Another 5.4 misfire thread
01-17-2019, 09:58 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I pulled the coil and replaced it, I'll do the rest if they need replacement. As of now it seems to be working just fine. If I keep getting the check engine I will pull them all. But I don't want to spend the money unless i must. When I pulled the coil it had oil under it.... seemed weird. Any ideas why? I couldn't believe it was that easy to do either.
Ps I'm 90% sure the spark plugs have already been replaced.
Ps I'm 90% sure the spark plugs have already been replaced.
01-17-2019, 11:01 PM
#12
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My wife has a 2006 King Ranch 3V3V 5.4 and hers did the exact same thing about two weeks ago. I spoke with several Ford experts and from my own experience because I also have an F150 its best to change them all at the same time because Ford's seem to have a domino effect. When one thing goes bad its a matter of time before they crap out completely. My truck blew out a plug and I didnt change them all like I should have and very shortly after I bad another check engine light
01-17-2019, 11:18 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Albeno09
My wife has a 2006 King Ranch 3V3V 5.4 and hers did the exact same thing about two weeks ago. I spoke with several Ford experts and from my own experience because I also have an F150 its best to change them all at the same time because Ford's seem to have a domino effect. When one thing goes bad its a matter of time before they crap out completely. My truck blew out a plug and I didnt change them all like I should have and very shortly after I bad another check engine light
01-18-2019, 05:55 AM
#14
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I hear ya bud. I have two kids of my own so i know it gets expensive. But I would definitely makensure you change all the plugs. Use the one piece motorcraft plugs. The 546/515 plugs work great but make sure you put a dab of dielectric grease on each coil tip before you put them back in to keep them fresh. It also helps with continuity and keeps the boot from cracking.
01-19-2019, 11:50 AM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Alright fellas, like I mentioned I'm not trying to replace all of the coils. Truck was running smooth, saw the flashing check engine light again, read the code and it showed again. What are the odds of this being a fuel injector or possibly a ground issue??
01-19-2019, 12:48 PM
#16
Moderator
New plugs sp546 ,new boots and springs Check all connectors locking on . Clean all connectors with contact cleaner ,Clean all cop connections real good. Torque all plugs in 25 to 28 foot pounds .Do a hosp clean install .
If these are orig plugs you need to have lisle plug extractor on hand . You must start with a good plug job .
If she throws any codes, list them here so the folks can determine what they mean . Codes do not give you this is the problem --replace this ,some are the result of other factors . .
Example- She shutdown and oil light was on . All shutdowns will result in low oil pressure ,and there is no low oil shutdown on these trucks. Its just a result of whatever shut it down not the cause .
Factory cops rarely go bad but they do corrode up on terminals . If oil /antifreeze leaking in sparkwells it will short it out. Plugs are only good for 60k . Oil changes not more than 5k ,this engine uses dirty engine oil to control cams hydraulically thru small screens and passages . Get her clean and keep it that way . There is more but this is a start . You will notice misfires like to show up around 45 -50 after engine rpm drops and climbing a hill , Engine lugging at those points
If these are orig plugs you need to have lisle plug extractor on hand . You must start with a good plug job .
If she throws any codes, list them here so the folks can determine what they mean . Codes do not give you this is the problem --replace this ,some are the result of other factors . .
Example- She shutdown and oil light was on . All shutdowns will result in low oil pressure ,and there is no low oil shutdown on these trucks. Its just a result of whatever shut it down not the cause .
Factory cops rarely go bad but they do corrode up on terminals . If oil /antifreeze leaking in sparkwells it will short it out. Plugs are only good for 60k . Oil changes not more than 5k ,this engine uses dirty engine oil to control cams hydraulically thru small screens and passages . Get her clean and keep it that way . There is more but this is a start . You will notice misfires like to show up around 45 -50 after engine rpm drops and climbing a hill , Engine lugging at those points
^^^^^^^^^^^ X 2 to the 10th power.
You might also benefit from my experience with a 'pick 5.4l' detailed here. It is the kind of meticulous detail no 'normal' tune-up mechanic or shop would go to.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
You might also benefit from my experience with a 'pick 5.4l' detailed here. It is the kind of meticulous detail no 'normal' tune-up mechanic or shop would go to.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
What kind did you use specifically .Best to use sp546 ,515's were going bad out of the box . . No one will do them as good as the owner if he learns and takes his time . Yes that carbon around the plug tip breaks plugs going in and out, clean it out with carb cleaner ,the way it was in your first 60k miles . Use a torque wrench , and yes it helps if you pull pcm and bracket off to get to no 3 and 4 .. And yes you need to have changed out the boots and springs , but only on the ones you don't want misfires on .
Misfires ruin cats, so get on it ,they are expensive.
We need to eliminate plugs and boots so you may move on to injector diagnostics . .
Misfires ruin cats, so get on it ,they are expensive.
We need to eliminate plugs and boots so you may move on to injector diagnostics . .
I hear ya bud. I have two kids of my own so i know it gets expensive. But I would definitely makensure you change all the plugs. Use the one piece motorcraft plugs. The 546/515 plugs work great but make sure you put a dab of dielectric grease on each coil tip before you put them back in to keep them fresh. It also helps with continuity and keeps the boot from cracking.
The following 2 users liked this post by BadFish523:
F150Torqued (01-19-2019),
techrep (01-19-2019)
01-19-2019, 01:23 PM
#17
Mark
iTrader: (1)
I would change the plug under the coil pack you just replaced.. you had oil in there ... may of fouled it out.
01-19-2019, 03:42 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by techrep
I would change the plug under the coil pack you just replaced.. you had oil in there ... may of fouled it out.
01-20-2019, 08:49 AM
#19
Mark
iTrader: (1)
we here have seen bad plugs right out of the box ... so looks mean nothing.. could be the boot and spring ? could be the injector... could be the plug.. with no DTC to help guide you.. you gotta swap parts.
01-20-2019, 01:05 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by techrep
we here have seen bad plugs right out of the box ... so looks mean nothing.. could be the boot and spring ? could be the injector... could be the plug.. with no DTC to help guide you.. you gotta swap parts.