alternator charge problem
10-28-2008, 03:35 PM
#1
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alternator charge problem
I have a 2006 f150 xlt. Problem started after I parked it for over a month without starting it. I charged the battery there after and it started took it for a drive on the freeway and after about 1 hr of driving the all electrical went out panel, radio, guages, a/c etc...and the truck shut off on the freeway.
I since re-charged the battery but the alternator is not charging. I had it bench tested and its good. I had it tested on the truck and test failed-not charging. What gives.
What else should I look for? Please help.
Thanks in advance
Louie
I since re-charged the battery but the alternator is not charging. I had it bench tested and its good. I had it tested on the truck and test failed-not charging. What gives.
What else should I look for? Please help.
Thanks in advance
Louie
10-28-2008, 05:05 PM
#2
take it to a dealer should still be under warranty, i had the same problem they replaced the alternator then subsequently found a squirrel in my engine. not the problem but they alternator is covered under warranty.
10-29-2008, 06:48 AM
#3
Senior Member
Have you tried a different battery? Borrow one from a buddy and retest. Yes, alternators are supposed to provide all electrical power with engine running, batteries can be wierd. In todays times with all the electronics, well its a little different.
10-29-2008, 07:00 AM
#4
Moderator (Ret.)
It is very possible that you have a bad cell in the battery. If this is the case, the battery will not hold a charge for long, especially when an electrical "draw" is required. In order for any alternator to produce current (charge), it must be energized with 12 volts. If the battery is dead, the alternator will not produce or create a charge for the automobile electrics to work.
10-29-2008, 08:14 PM
#7
Moderator (Ret.)
If the battery tests good, then I'd next be checking the wire harness to the alternator (interesting that my Haynes repair manual calls it a Generator). There are 3 fusible links in the alternator/generator wiring. From the alternator/generator, follow the black/orange stripe wire (this is the alternator/generator "output"; it would have the 13.5 to 14 volt output that charges the battery when the engine is running; spinning the alternator/generator pulley) to a connector that then connects it to a grey wire. This grey wire is a "fusible link" meaning it will melt inside the wires insulation. A multimeter set to "ohms" will easily find if this link is "open". A fusible link is a special wire that acts like a fuse on large amp carrying circuits.
This grey wire (fusible link) then reconnects to a black/orange stripe wire, which then runs to the battery positive (+) post (this completes the alternator/generator output circuit; if the fusible link is good, the voltage on this wire from the alternator/generator should be between 13.5 and 14 volts). A quick check would be to put the black lead of the multimeter on the battery positive post, and the red lead to the black/orange stripe wire at the alternator/generator connector. Set to "ohms", and "X10" scale; the meter should show zero ohms ("dead short"). If not, then that fusible link (grey wire) is fried. Ford sells these fusible links, as do major auto parts stores. I'd find first why the fusible link burned up first though (were you messing with the battery and caused a short?).
Another fusible link in this alternator/generator circuit is the alternator/generator orange/blue strip wire (this is the alternator/generator "energized" wire that makes the alternator/generator produce its output/charge). Follow this wire to a connector that connects it to a brown wire. This brown wire is also a fusible link, and it connects to another connector to a grey wire, another fusible link, which then connects to the battery positive (+) post. There are a total of 3 fusible links that could be fried (opened)causing your no charge symptoms. All of these 3 fusible links are located by the battery, under a plastic cover (long cover, approx. 5 inches in length). I gave you the color code of these 3 fusible links in the above paragraph. NEVER REPLACE THESE FUSIBLE LINKS WITH REGULAR WIRE; A FIRE CAN BREAK OUT IF THE CIRCUIT GOT OVERLOADED AND THE WIRE GOT HOT!
I'd check these fusible links. My guess is on the orange/blue strip wire, but it could also be the fusible link to the black/orange striped wire.
This grey wire (fusible link) then reconnects to a black/orange stripe wire, which then runs to the battery positive (+) post (this completes the alternator/generator output circuit; if the fusible link is good, the voltage on this wire from the alternator/generator should be between 13.5 and 14 volts). A quick check would be to put the black lead of the multimeter on the battery positive post, and the red lead to the black/orange stripe wire at the alternator/generator connector. Set to "ohms", and "X10" scale; the meter should show zero ohms ("dead short"). If not, then that fusible link (grey wire) is fried. Ford sells these fusible links, as do major auto parts stores. I'd find first why the fusible link burned up first though (were you messing with the battery and caused a short?).
Another fusible link in this alternator/generator circuit is the alternator/generator orange/blue strip wire (this is the alternator/generator "energized" wire that makes the alternator/generator produce its output/charge). Follow this wire to a connector that connects it to a brown wire. This brown wire is also a fusible link, and it connects to another connector to a grey wire, another fusible link, which then connects to the battery positive (+) post. There are a total of 3 fusible links that could be fried (opened)causing your no charge symptoms. All of these 3 fusible links are located by the battery, under a plastic cover (long cover, approx. 5 inches in length). I gave you the color code of these 3 fusible links in the above paragraph. NEVER REPLACE THESE FUSIBLE LINKS WITH REGULAR WIRE; A FIRE CAN BREAK OUT IF THE CIRCUIT GOT OVERLOADED AND THE WIRE GOT HOT!
I'd check these fusible links. My guess is on the orange/blue strip wire, but it could also be the fusible link to the black/orange striped wire.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 10-29-2008 at 08:27 PM.
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07-30-2017, 08:42 PM
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0.2
If the battery tests good, then I'd next be checking the wire harness to the alternator (interesting that my Haynes repair manual calls it a Generator). There are 3 fusible links in the alternator/generator wiring. From the alternator/generator, follow the black/orange stripe wire (this is the alternator/generator "output"; it would have the 13.5 to 14 volt output that charges the battery when the engine is running; spinning the alternator/generator pulley) to a connector that then connects it to a grey wire. This grey is 0.2 ohms acceptable as 0?
wire is a "fusible link" meaning it will melt inside the wires insulation. A multimeter set to "ohms" will easily find if this link is "open". A fusible link is a special wire that acts like a fuse on large amp carrying circuits.
This grey wire (fusible link) then reconnects to a black/orange stripe wire, which then runs to the battery positive (+) post (this completes the alternator/generator output circuit; if the fusible link is good, the voltage on this wire from the alternator/generator should be between 13.5 and 14 volts). A quick check would be to put the black lead of the multimeter on the battery positive post, and the red lead to the black/orange stripe wire at the alternator/generator connector. Set to "ohms", and "X10" scale; the meter should show zero ohms ("dead short"). If not, then that fusible link (grey wire) is fried. Ford sells these fusible links, as do major auto parts stores. I'd find first why the fusible link burned up first though (were you messing with the battery and caused a short?).
Another fusible link in this alternator/generator circuit is the alternator/generator orange/blue strip wire (this is the alternator/generator "energized" wire that makes the alternator/generator produce its output/charge). Follow this wire to a connector that connects it to a brown wire. This brown wire is also a fusible link, and it connects to another connector to a grey wire, another fusible link, which then connects to the battery positive (+) post. There are a total of 3 fusible links that could be fried (opened)causing your no charge symptoms. All of these 3 fusible links are located by the battery, under a plastic cover (long cover, approx. 5 inches in length). I gave you the color code of these 3 fusible links in the above paragraph. NEVER REPLACE THESE FUSIBLE LINKS WITH REGULAR WIRE; A FIRE CAN BREAK OUT IF THE CIRCUIT GOT OVERLOADED AND THE WIRE GOT HOT!
I'd check these fusible links. My guess is on the orange/blue strip wire, but it could also be the fusible link to the black/orange striped wire.
wire is a "fusible link" meaning it will melt inside the wires insulation. A multimeter set to "ohms" will easily find if this link is "open". A fusible link is a special wire that acts like a fuse on large amp carrying circuits.
This grey wire (fusible link) then reconnects to a black/orange stripe wire, which then runs to the battery positive (+) post (this completes the alternator/generator output circuit; if the fusible link is good, the voltage on this wire from the alternator/generator should be between 13.5 and 14 volts). A quick check would be to put the black lead of the multimeter on the battery positive post, and the red lead to the black/orange stripe wire at the alternator/generator connector. Set to "ohms", and "X10" scale; the meter should show zero ohms ("dead short"). If not, then that fusible link (grey wire) is fried. Ford sells these fusible links, as do major auto parts stores. I'd find first why the fusible link burned up first though (were you messing with the battery and caused a short?).
Another fusible link in this alternator/generator circuit is the alternator/generator orange/blue strip wire (this is the alternator/generator "energized" wire that makes the alternator/generator produce its output/charge). Follow this wire to a connector that connects it to a brown wire. This brown wire is also a fusible link, and it connects to another connector to a grey wire, another fusible link, which then connects to the battery positive (+) post. There are a total of 3 fusible links that could be fried (opened)causing your no charge symptoms. All of these 3 fusible links are located by the battery, under a plastic cover (long cover, approx. 5 inches in length). I gave you the color code of these 3 fusible links in the above paragraph. NEVER REPLACE THESE FUSIBLE LINKS WITH REGULAR WIRE; A FIRE CAN BREAK OUT IF THE CIRCUIT GOT OVERLOADED AND THE WIRE GOT HOT!
I'd check these fusible links. My guess is on the orange/blue strip wire, but it could also be the fusible link to the black/orange striped wire.
07-30-2017, 08:52 PM
#10
Senior Member
Assuming if you're asking if 0,2 ohms is acceptable as a reading. That reading could be the leads, etc, so for all intents and purposes it's fine.
