About to do a 100% tune up and run through
 

So i just broke 100k on my truck, its a 2005 fx4 with pro comp 6in lift with 35in fierce attitudes

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...70957752_n.jpg
its def time for a tune up and upgrade stuff before they start to go
these are things i need to do i know im missing things im just looking for ideas others have done

- New Plugs& Coils no big misses but once in a while it feels like it might if ya know what im trying to say lol but its time and should help out Are MSD coils worth the extra $ ? or would i be good running motorcrafts? clean up any stray wires from BS

- 5100 Bilsteins -- all the way around to get rid of the procomp spacer

- 4" leaf springs -- to get rid of the blocks and my oems are starting to sag is 4inch right ive called several places and with keeping the factory block/bump stop 4in is right

- All Ball Joints -- I got MOOG Upper control arms w/ greasable joints and lower joints as well my lowers are worn out starting to get a shimmy and i did the wobble test and theres some play so might as well knock it out

- Tie Rod ends -- got them in the package deal with the UCA and ball joints for 175....so why not fix them while its torn down

- New Pads and check rotors -- pads still got some life but not more than maybe 6 months so gonna do it and hopefully i can resurface the rotors but if not what do yall recommend brand wise?

- True dual 40 series & HF Cats -- Currently running a bullet off the oem system.. cats aren't causing issues yet but Ive get a couple leaks around them and i got two high flows and 2 40 series mufflers for free so i cant complain lol or should i see the 40s and grab 2 10s heheheh :devil:

- Airaid CAI Leaning towards Airaid but if i can get my hands on a cheap k&n ill swing it...running the k&n drop in now

- Convert edge into gryphon gotta get my tunes so i can run my CAI and get the most out of the rebirth of this beast

- Tranny Service -- Dropping the pan cleaning everything up and swapping out the filter...What Fluid is better?...used to be able to get cherry juice from the mechs on post for my older fords but not sure now

- synthetic swap -- Plan on going full syn but what is a good Qual brand.. used to run mobil 1 but damn that **** is crazy now

- Diff Services -- been a while since i did them so gotta pick up some royal purple w/ adds

- Fuel Filter-- Why not lol

- Audio upgrade -- Buddy bought rockford 5*7s for his car didnt like them so i got 6 of em for $70 gotta love it so im gonna replace the doors and mount one in the tray above the radio and one in the rail compartment over head and bridge those two and pick up a pioneer H/U

- Tow Mirrors -- Finally mount my birthday presents


overall ill be in about 1600 in parts and as long as i bribe my buddy to let me his bender ill be in just under 2000 total getting it all done hopefully in the next month or so depending on how long it takes to get my DD214 & move from el paso TX to upstate NY

ANY THING ELSE I SHOULD HIT OR ANY LIL TRICKS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED....its gonna be nice not having work or any issues and being able to tear down take my time and do it all once...hopefully

Make sure you use dielectric grease on the COP boots. I use Castrol, the GTX helped my 84 Sunbird 18 years ago and I never used anything but Castrol since, I use the full synthetic now. Might as well replace the FPDM. And lastly, I'd stick with motorcraft COP's.

What is a FPDM?

Fuel Pump Driver Module. Mounted on the frame above the spare tire on the drivers side. The OEM module is prone to corrode and should be replaced. I'm going to check mine and if I need one just order it from Rock Auto. They are about 1/2 the price of O Reilly and autozone for the same part. They even have an installation video http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3099801. Plus the new one has spacers to help prevent the corrosion.

This is why you should check your FPDM! ---> https://www.f150forum.com/f4/fuel-pu...-yours-152908/

Fuel pump driver module. On top of the rear axle. Cheap from Amazon.

I forgot about amazon. They are a few cents cheaper (:whistling2:) than Rock Auto and it qualifies for free shipping with Prime. That makes Amazon about $6 cheaper at $57.21 shipped. I just went out and checked mine. It's corroded pretty bad so I have one on the way.

Now what is the point of replacing it my truck is a 2007 with 58 k on it should it be replaced?

It's due to corrosion, not mileage. I don't know if you need it, that's why you should check. Mine wasn't extremely corroded, but I didn't want to be left stranded somewhere and pay somebody a couple hundred bucks to do something I can do for sixty.

O so Its like a perventive maintnence type thing it doesent help the truck with more mpg or HP er anything?