Wesley416

I use Schaeffers supreme 7000 synth blend I like it due to its high molybdenum content I've got 172000 miles and still all original internals i've used a few different weights over the years but have recently landed on 5w-30 after using 10w-30 I have however always used a motorcraft FL-820S filter at a 5k oci I also have always drained my oil at operating temp which if not careful can suck. I think the Schaeffers addivtive package and detergents are great due to how clean my engine is under the valve covers.

Smokin04

Because in the 5.4L 3V engine, the installed lash adjusters were designed to be run with a certain viscosity oil...5W-20. If folks want to run a heavier oil, they should switch their lash adjusters to the Ford GT adjusters designed to run 5W-50. They should also be wary of their bearing clearances. Ford builds modular motors pretty tight from the factory. The Triton is no different. All it takes is a quick search to find out how running too thick an oil can cause poorer lubrication to the main/rod bearings than intended for the clearances built in. The purpose of the thread was to discuss preferred oil viscosity. And since the valve train and main/rod bearings are key systems in the longevity of an engine, using the correct viscosity of oil is a big deal.


All of you heavier oil weight users...do you know what your bearing clearances are? If not, you may just want to remove your engine, disassemble it, measure clearances, reassemble it, and run the appropriate weight oil for YOUR engine. If that doesn't sound like your cup of tea, the manufacturers recommendation may be worth adhering to. By not doing so, you're POSSIBLY sacrificing engine longevity. If a 30/40/50 wt oil is "working" for you, you may just be the lucky one that got a looser engine from Ford. But it's not smart to recommend it to everyone else just because you have been lucky enough to get away with it.

Eric Kleven

FALSE.

This has been shown to be a fallacious point in so many posts in so many different points all over the internet that it's not even worth discussing any more.

FoMoCo changed exactly NO clearances in the bottom end of the engine between the 2v and 3v engines.

The Aussie 3v engines (which appeared first) were spec'd in their owner's manuals for oils that were not 5w-20, and I'm not sure they even have 5w-20 down there. It's been reported so many times all over the internet that there are exactly NO internal part number differences between the engines or their components.

The Modular engines were designed around 5w-30.
CAFE rules led FoMoCo to back-spec all existing engines and to start specing new-production engines with 5w-20 because they could show a miniscule improvment in efficiency on the dyno.

the only way an end-user could possibly be able to tell a difference between those two grades of motor oil is in possibly lower oil consumption with the 5w-20 due to better oil control from the low-tension ring pack.


The quoted point at the top of this post needs to finally die.

Smokin04

If you'd care to list one of the "so many posts" in which my previous statements were fallacious, I would be happy to discuss them.


You're correct. They didn't. And they also recommend 5W-20 for 2V's, 3V's and 4V's.



M-6500-M50 (5.0 coyote LA), 5L1Z‑6500‑A (5.4 triton LA), 3L3Z‑6500‑BA (Aussie updated), M-6500-GT (Ford GT), SPG-810 (Barra 5.4 3V V8)


All listed are modular ford engines with different part numbers on lash adjusters. And here's a blurb from Mace which sells "Ford parts" in Australia with regards to their lash adjusters down there:


"Notes:

- Please check the diameter of your lash adjusters prior to the purchase as we have not properly developed an accurate fitment guide due to the inconsistency of the models they're found in. We also sell them with 0.629" outside diameter, which can be purchased through another listing."


You're correct that the Aussie version was first. Never mind the FACT that the Aussie version (Barra) had completely different intake and exhaust manifolds...oh yeah, and was a dual overhead cam.
http://australiancar.reviews/Barra_V8_Engine.php
But an argument could be made that they're the same I suppose. It makes sense if you don't think about it.

Right, because it makes total sense to design an engine around engine oil. That's equivalent to designing a building based on the carpet going inside it.




Has less than NOTHING to do with dyno's. Has to do with AVERAGE FLEET fuel economy. https://www.ucsusa.org/clean-vehicle...my-basics.html 5W-20 is not the only oil Ford recommends. Oil is application specific.


You mean aside from the actual ability to measure differences in viscosity? And measurable oil consumption occurs by leaks, either in the valve seals, or mating surfaces on ANY engine regardless of viscosity. And low tension rings huh? That would be cool if they did but Mod motors have a "standard tension" 1.5/1.5/3.0 ring pack. If you take into consideration, you need a pretty precise cylinder (.0015 r/o) for low or ultra-low tension oil rings not to smoke like a freight train. They usually get that precise after a torque-plate hone usually reserved for high-performance engines.


Look, I could care less what oil people run in their rigs. I just don't appreciate folks trying to discredit my first hand knowledge based on obscure, unproven, or unsubstantiated claims that they read or heard second hand from someone or somewhere else equally uninformed. I've been building and directly involved with tuning these engines for the past 15 years. I also follow the automotive world in all facets. I'm not uninformed. People are free to use what I say, or not. Either way, it doesn't phase me. But, consistent with politeness, I'll refrain from posting in this thread again unless my direct input is asked for or provoked.

Eric Kleven

Gee, you win, you're the expert....


Main point: this argument needs to die.

FX4Marco

Exactly, at some point you should replace a tensioners, timing chain, solenoids etc. You're going to have to take the front of the engine off anyway, while you are at it you might as well replace the oil pump with the melling high flow pump. Take care of it all at once and you should be good. I have 177000 on my 2006 FX4 and I am going strong. Haven't done this yet, but when the time comes I will do it all at once. Fordmakeloco has a video out and he shows you how to change the oil pump without dropping the pan and doing all the extra work associated with that. Definitely save some labor time or cost if you have someone do it. Personally I have always use synthetic and I run 5000 mile intervals. I have used Mobile1, Pennzoil, Valvoline & Motorcraft full synthetic - just depends on what's in sale and must be synthetic for me. Yes, AutoZone used to sell full synthetic Motorcraft. Now I buy it at the dealer. I just changed my oil and this time I used Amsoil. It is pricier, but I believe it's the best. It's not a signature series so I still run 5000 miles on this , with Motorcraft filter. On my focus I put a lot of miles on it fast, I just started using Amsoil Signature Series and I am going to go 10000 miles. Amsoil signature series is rated for 25000 miles, but I am scared to go that long. I figured it's worth the extra money to go 10000 miles and it should be no problem. I have gone back and forth between 5w20 & 5w30 and in the winter time I have even run 0w 20 since the zero is for a cold start and the 20 is the viscosity at running temperature. I figure I want to get that oil circulating as quickly as possible when it is cold. I don't have any leaks. Are you guys that are running the 10w40 or thicker oil, noticing any issues? It seems that if oil starvation is a problem with the tight tolerances, thicker oil would exasperate a problem. Just a question, I will be very nervous about trying it myself

FX4Marco

Very well very well said, I and I completely agree

Eric Kleven

SCORGE

That poor horse.

BadFish523

Dont worry he's already dead.

On topic, changed my oil again today. Used my regular choice of 5-W20 Mobile 1 Full Synthetic.