GATORB8

Your 03 is a 2v and is not affected by this issue. IMO, most of the spark plug advertisement is snake oil, my recommendation is to stick with Motorcraft. I'm not positive, but I think the later 2v heads were redesigned to give more threads for the spark plug.

RahX

Yea. They most likely go tink tink and are violently ejected out of the exhaust valves If they got hung up in the narrow space between the piston and cylinder you would hear nails on a chalkboard.

The Mad Basher

actually, the chips should be small enough to just desintegrate during combustion. to be safe i'd run some seafoam thru the gas to intensify combustion an help expel the porcelin bits.

rowdyred94

Fantastic thread. Thank you. I'm trying to help my dad avoid a $650 bill for spark plugs. The only thing missing here is specific plug and tool shopping information, so I thought I'd share what I find. Prices obviously subject to change after today. Moderators, feel free to edit or remove if I've violated forum policy (which I haven't actually found yet).

There are quite a few options, and while which is best was addressed in part in the OP, I'd appreciate any further suggestions.

Amazon
, $61.95 plus shipping

Rock Auto
DENSO Part # 4512 {Platinum TT #PT20TT}
New Platinum Twin-Tip design with Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap, $2.60

AUTOLITE Part # HT1 {PLUGS Platinum; Revolution HT (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)}
Gap .045; REVOLUTION HT is specifically designed for the Ford Triton 3 valve engine design; Optional alternate design

+ Sold in packs of 4; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack, $7.50

AUTOLITE Part # HT15 {PLUGS Platinum; Revolution HT (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)}
OE Style; Gap .045; REVOLUTION HT is specifically designed for the Ford Triton 3 valve engine design; Original equipment design
Choose:
+ Sold in packs of {x}; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack, $7.50

DENSO Part # 5326 {Iridium Plug #IT20}
Performance Upgrade With World's Smallest Center Electrode (0.4 mm Dia.) & Tapered Tip Patented U-Groove Design & Patented Ir Alloy (90% Ir), $7.69

MOTORCRAFT Part # SP507 {#PZT14F, PZT2F, PZT2FF4, SP421}
United States; Plug Material: Finewire Platinum; Gap: .045; Type - Standard Service Plg, $8.19

CHAMPION Part # 7989 {DOUBLE PLATINUM POWER; 0.045 Gap (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)}
OE Style

Choose:
+ Sold in packs of {x}; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack, $13.97

NAPA has a similar list, but prices are a buck or two higher.

Tavman

Hey I just did mine and i followed the TSB to the letter and the only thing that I did differently was I used Mopar, yes you heard me right Mopar Penetrating Fluid to soak the plugs and I must have a horse shoe up my *** but all mine came out unscathed!!! My truck has 187K kms on it!!! I wouldnt have believed it if an old mechanic friend told me. I was going to use PJ-Blast but I figured he has had 35 years of experience over my 5 so I better listen!!
So I thought I would share my little secret that saved my ***!!

But before I did this I saw this artical online and was wondering if anyone has tried this "Home Brew"???
http://autorepair.about.com/u/ua/qui...etrants.01.htm

jamesyarbrough

I'd bet it works good, acetone and atf ought to kick carbons *****

rbailey3711

I'm glad I got on here before I went any further trying to replace my spark plugs. First, thanks to all of the contributors for the recommendations and ideas.

I bought replacement plugs at our local Farm & Fleet store: Bosch Platinum Plus # 4005; will these work, they don't look anything like the plug drawings in this thread.

My next question is what size plug wrench are you guys using to "attempt" :-) removal of the plugs? I took the coil pack off and tried a 5/8" plug socket and it just spins and doesn't bite against anything; is it too short or the wrong size? The Bosch plus are 5/8". Also, I didn't even see Bosch mentioned in the lists of different brand plugs that would work.

I know it was mentioned to wait until 100K miles, I had a coil pack start misfiring so I figured since I had to be in there, I'd change the plugs now....85K right now.

Would I be better off spraying the Ford Carb cleaner down around the base and drive it for a few days or do that once I run the seafoam through the engine for a couple of weeks?

I look forward to any helpful suggestions; thanks in advance.

Evil_E

I would NOT break them loose hot, it's a 9/16 spark plug socket

RahX

I should have clarified, when I said hot I meant fully warmed and cooled off for about 30-45 mins with the hood up. You would have to be a burly SOB to fiddle with the thing at full operating temperature lol. If you do it warm the carbon is a bit softer, the hole isn't as tight and the penetrating oil gets in easier. 1/16 - 1/8 of a turn shouldn't cause any trouble. I did it this way on my truck and I had no trouble with chewed up threads. I had 3 break and 1 that sounded horrible coming out ( not broken ) but they all came out easy. I used a regular deep 6 point socket, I think it was a 14mm as I don't have a 9/16 deep.

GATORB8

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/06-19-08.pdf

Also check out the tech video's that are linked in Crashtech's stickey on this subforum, it help identify the noises.