5.4L 3V Spark Plugs Engine Build Dates before 10/09/07
03-25-2011, 07:58 PM
#131
Senior Member
Champions
Came out 8 for 8, not a single broken plug in the bunch. Didn't feel bad - $200 (including the cost of the plugs) to get all 8 changed with Champions. Can't say it drives better nor worse than with the Motorcrafts, but at least these are one piece.
Paul
03-26-2011, 01:46 PM
#134
2004 lifted FX4
Join Date: Nov 2010
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I stuffed every kind of seafoam every were I could to minimize the issue of carbon. Used HT1 plugs and picked up .5-.75 MPG and it does run smoother on the big end of the tach. At 68K miles my old plugs were done and needed to go
03-27-2011, 09:01 AM
#135
Junior Member
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http://www.championsparkplugs.com/
Bug
03-29-2011, 01:53 PM
#136
Senior Member
Plug change
Mine's an '07 , part #7989. Yours may be different depending on model and year. Go here to get started:
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/
Bug
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/
Bug
03-30-2011, 10:03 PM
#137
First post. Great board you guys have here.
For those who are contemplating doing the dreaded plug change, it does not necessarily have to be a nightmare.
I changed mine at 97,000 miles yesterday with no problems whatsoever.
1) I did two Seafoam de-carbonizing treatments 1 week ago, along with a tankful of Seafoam treated gas.
2) BEFORE attempting to back the plugs out at all, spray just enough Kroil penetrating lubricant into the plug wells to almost cover the plug bolt head. Cold engine, and let sit for a couple of hours.
Contrary to conventional thinking, the Kroil will wick down some even with the taper fully seated. Don't ask me how, but it does. The can claims that Kroil will find its' way pass openings as small as one millionth of an inch. Apparently this is true. After soaking, I planned on backing out each plug 1/8 turn, with the intention of letting it soak overnight. 6 of 8 came out with no effort. Upon breaking the seal, on the fist plug, I kind of freaked thinking it must have broken off straight away because of how easy it was coming out. The Kroil had turned the carbon build up to "oil".
The back two passenger side plugs offered somewhat more resistance. In this case, after backing out 1/8 turn, another quick shot of Kroil, then let sit for 1/2 hour. With torque wrench set to 20 ft lbs, (well below the 33 ft lbs danger mark) I simply took my time working these plugs in and out 1/4 turn at a time until free.
Could be just lucky, but I suspect that the difference is letting the Kroil do its work BEFORE moving the plug at all. Also, the second Seafoam treatment produced very little magic smoke which along with the relatively little carbon on my plugs compared to some pics I've, indicates that the Seafoam treatment really does help. Could it be that by backing the plugs out that initial 1/8 to 1/4 turn before using the Kroil is weakening the bond of these two piece plugs right at the start while the ground is still seized in the head? I suspect so. Again, the Kroil had obviously found its way to the carbon build up in at least 6 of 8 in my instance with the plugs still fully seated.
There was no way I was going to have the Dealer attempt this after being told $495.00 for a freaking plug change, plus $200.00 for each broken plug. I figured I had much more incentive to take my time and do this job carefully than the Dealer has. $64.00 for new Motorcraft plugs from Advance Auto, $41.00 for new COP boots from Auto Zone, $15.00 for Kroil Penetrating oil from Amazon, and $20.00 for freaking 8oz of nickel anti-seize from the Ford dealer. Oh, and $12 bucks for the Seafoam for the upper engine de-carbonization bonus. Done
For those who are contemplating doing the dreaded plug change, it does not necessarily have to be a nightmare.
I changed mine at 97,000 miles yesterday with no problems whatsoever.
1) I did two Seafoam de-carbonizing treatments 1 week ago, along with a tankful of Seafoam treated gas.
2) BEFORE attempting to back the plugs out at all, spray just enough Kroil penetrating lubricant into the plug wells to almost cover the plug bolt head. Cold engine, and let sit for a couple of hours.
Contrary to conventional thinking, the Kroil will wick down some even with the taper fully seated. Don't ask me how, but it does. The can claims that Kroil will find its' way pass openings as small as one millionth of an inch. Apparently this is true. After soaking, I planned on backing out each plug 1/8 turn, with the intention of letting it soak overnight. 6 of 8 came out with no effort. Upon breaking the seal, on the fist plug, I kind of freaked thinking it must have broken off straight away because of how easy it was coming out. The Kroil had turned the carbon build up to "oil".
The back two passenger side plugs offered somewhat more resistance. In this case, after backing out 1/8 turn, another quick shot of Kroil, then let sit for 1/2 hour. With torque wrench set to 20 ft lbs, (well below the 33 ft lbs danger mark) I simply took my time working these plugs in and out 1/4 turn at a time until free.
Could be just lucky, but I suspect that the difference is letting the Kroil do its work BEFORE moving the plug at all. Also, the second Seafoam treatment produced very little magic smoke which along with the relatively little carbon on my plugs compared to some pics I've, indicates that the Seafoam treatment really does help. Could it be that by backing the plugs out that initial 1/8 to 1/4 turn before using the Kroil is weakening the bond of these two piece plugs right at the start while the ground is still seized in the head? I suspect so. Again, the Kroil had obviously found its way to the carbon build up in at least 6 of 8 in my instance with the plugs still fully seated.
There was no way I was going to have the Dealer attempt this after being told $495.00 for a freaking plug change, plus $200.00 for each broken plug. I figured I had much more incentive to take my time and do this job carefully than the Dealer has. $64.00 for new Motorcraft plugs from Advance Auto, $41.00 for new COP boots from Auto Zone, $15.00 for Kroil Penetrating oil from Amazon, and $20.00 for freaking 8oz of nickel anti-seize from the Ford dealer. Oh, and $12 bucks for the Seafoam for the upper engine de-carbonization bonus. Done
03-31-2011, 05:11 PM
#138
Junior Member
Spark Plug Change
I just had a mechanic change mine. With 102,000 miles, he offered to back one out and if it looked good to stop and put it back to avoid breakage. Apparently it looked bad so he took them all out, breaking 2. All in I think it cost me about $440 (including labor for the two broken plugs). Sucks to shell that out but feels good to know I wont have to do it again for a looong time.
Spark plug ford 5.4 3V
04-11-2011, 12:59 PM
#140
Go Chiefs!
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My '06 Lariat with 76K is going in this Wednesday. My mechanic at the Ford dealership does work at home and is doing my plugs for me. He is charging $100 for the work and $25 per plug that breaks. The most I will pay is $300 for the labor (not counting the cost of the plugs). I'm pretty happy to just have it done and I've been waiting quite some time now to have it done. I know the plugs are bad. Finally found someone to do it for a good price!
(this post was not a brag post, merely just my $.02 on the subject. Plus I feel good to get them changed out!)
(this post was not a brag post, merely just my $.02 on the subject. Plus I feel good to get them changed out!)
Last edited by MossyOakMan; 04-11-2011 at 01:03 PM.