5.4L 120k Cam Phaser Issues, Need Advice
#1
5.4L 120k Cam Phaser Issues, Need Advice
I have 07 FX4 that as far as I can tell has bad phasers ticks like all hell at idle hot or cold noticeably less when hot though. Should I replace the phasers or would doing the phaser lockout be enough.. truck has plenty of power just the diesel idle is killing me. I will get a cold start video of the noise tomorrow.
I recently had the manifolds done and the guy who finished them for me said that my ticking was the VCT solenoid, so I bought 2 Standard (that's the brand) VCT solenoids and found out I have the newer valve covers which do not allow for the VCT replacement without removing the vcovers.. Should I just bite the bullet and do the whole Cam phaser/chains/tensioners/oil pump or no.. I plan on driving this truck into the dirt so maintenance is maintenance as far as I'm concerned. Doesn't look like anyone else has been inside the motor So i'm thinking i'm dealing with stock ford phasers from 2007.
Sum up.. do I risk addressing the noise for $600 plus my time or just replace it all now while its still in one piece.
I recently had the manifolds done and the guy who finished them for me said that my ticking was the VCT solenoid, so I bought 2 Standard (that's the brand) VCT solenoids and found out I have the newer valve covers which do not allow for the VCT replacement without removing the vcovers.. Should I just bite the bullet and do the whole Cam phaser/chains/tensioners/oil pump or no.. I plan on driving this truck into the dirt so maintenance is maintenance as far as I'm concerned. Doesn't look like anyone else has been inside the motor So i'm thinking i'm dealing with stock ford phasers from 2007.
Sum up.. do I risk addressing the noise for $600 plus my time or just replace it all now while its still in one piece.
#2
I have 07 FX4 that as far as I can tell has bad phasers ticks like all hell at idle hot or cold noticeably less when hot though. Should I replace the phasers or would doing the phaser lockout be enough.. truck has plenty of power just the diesel idle is killing me. I will get a cold start video of the noise tomorrow.
I recently had the manifolds done and the guy who finished them for me said that my ticking was the VCT solenoid, so I bought 2 Standard (that's the brand) VCT solenoids and found out I have the newer valve covers which do not allow for the VCT replacement without removing the vcovers.. Should I just bite the bullet and do the whole Cam phaser/chains/tensioners/oil pump or no.. I plan on driving this truck into the dirt so maintenance is maintenance as far as I'm concerned. Doesn't look like anyone else has been inside the motor So i'm thinking i'm dealing with stock ford phasers from 2007.
Sum up.. do I risk addressing the noise for $600 plus my time or just replace it all now while its still in one piece.
I recently had the manifolds done and the guy who finished them for me said that my ticking was the VCT solenoid, so I bought 2 Standard (that's the brand) VCT solenoids and found out I have the newer valve covers which do not allow for the VCT replacement without removing the vcovers.. Should I just bite the bullet and do the whole Cam phaser/chains/tensioners/oil pump or no.. I plan on driving this truck into the dirt so maintenance is maintenance as far as I'm concerned. Doesn't look like anyone else has been inside the motor So i'm thinking i'm dealing with stock ford phasers from 2007.
Sum up.. do I risk addressing the noise for $600 plus my time or just replace it all now while its still in one piece.
#4
Moderator
Commonly the phaser noise should he louder at a hot idle not quieter. Usually quieter at hot idle is a manifold leak. Are you sure the manifolds were done right? Not saying it's not the phasers but they are almost always louder at hot idle vs cold idle. Also normally the phasers don't make much noise at cold idle unless they are REALLY bad. If you feel confidant that the noise is from the phasers then it is always recommended that you do the full timing job and always use OEM phasers, vct solenoids (not standard brand), OEM 2v ratcheting style tensioners. If you cheap out on those parts listed there you will be doing the whole job again. I also recommend dropping the oil pan to clean and swap the oil pump with any of the Melling versions. They even have a new high volume version but I don't know anybody on here who has used the new HV version yet. I used the Melling 10340. If you're doing the job right you won't be able to do it for $600 and your time. Parts are usually around $900-$1200.
#5
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Do full timing job
Lock outs don't fix any broken parts and degrade engine . Put that $700 towards a proper timing job . Phasers do go bad but that's only part of the problem . Poor oil pressure and blown plastic tensioner seals are a major problem . Use steel ratcheting tensioners with no seal to blow out . Use oem parts . VCTS ,lash's ,rollers phasers were all upgraded . Melling has a new high volume oil pump the 340hv . All this can be done diy if you have the will and the help on here . But its not cheap a full timing job runs around $1400 in oem parts . Don't use aftermarket phasers .
Not much in the way of special tools ,the phaser holding tool being a good one . Pulling cams avoids the expensive valve tool . Read svares final fix sticky .
Not much in the way of special tools ,the phaser holding tool being a good one . Pulling cams avoids the expensive valve tool . Read svares final fix sticky .
#6
Commonly the phaser noise should he louder at a hot idle not quieter. Usually quieter at hot idle is a manifold leak. Are you sure the manifolds were done right? Not saying it's not the phasers but they are almost always louder at hot idle vs cold idle. Also normally the phasers don't make much noise at cold idle unless they are REALLY bad. If you feel confidant that the noise is from the phasers then it is always recommended that you do the full timing job and always use OEM phasers, vct solenoids (not standard brand), OEM 2v ratcheting style tensioners. If you cheap out on those parts listed there you will be doing the whole job again. I also recommend dropping the oil pan to clean and swap the oil pump with any of the Melling versions. They even have a new high volume version but I don't know anybody on here who has used the new HV version yet. I used the Melling 10340. If you're doing the job right you won't be able to do it for $600 and your time. Parts are usually around $900-$1200.
#7
Moderator
Lockouts are just a bandaid. The truck will still have low oil pressure which could lead to other problems down the road. You would also need a tune to go with those lockouts. I am fully against lockouts. They dont fix anything they just cover up the problem.
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#9
My truck when fully to temp had a horrible tick sound at idle and the engine sounded like it was idling really low, very diesel sound.
This is almost certainly the phasers right? It's been going on a long time and you can hear it a bit at cold idle, 5-10x worse when hot.
This is almost certainly the phasers right? It's been going on a long time and you can hear it a bit at cold idle, 5-10x worse when hot.
#10
LightningRod
^^^^^^^^^
The 5.4L has a chorus of noises it can produce. Hard to seperate out especially when all mixed together. @BadFish523 described it pretty well here. I might add that loose roller bearings in a rolller follower can 'tick' really good on startup because the thin (5W20) oil drains off during soak. And they are oiled basically by a drip system. When cold thicker oil reaches them, they may quiet down slightly - then get louder as oil heats and thins out. In my opinion - the 'tick' is more likely from manifold OR roller/followers OR lash adjusters not staying pumped up against valve spring pressure.
Phaser's knock, will be louder at hot idle and has more of a diesel engine sound.
Another tricky one - the 'thrust' bearing surface built into the front cam journal can make a faint 'KNOCK' at hot idle that sounds exactly like a soft rod bearing knock if chain guides are bad and do not keep phaser gear running true - allowing cam to walk forward / backward against the thrust surface.