I agree, but this mechanic is only one of many.
His truck has + 150k miles.
Sometimes ignorance is bliss, and bliss can be expensive. My guess is that he will be replacing plugs and possibly coil packs prematurely, depending on the quality of the parts installed.

 

As long as the original plugs are still in there, there is no such thing as replacing plugs prematurely in the 5.4L. Get them out. The coils are a different story.

 

I need to make a correction. Only 3 coil packs were replace, and confirmed not working properly.
I just asked my coworker, he gave me the accurate info.

 

much better.

 

Thanks for all the advice everybody. I'll get the code reader on it today and see what if any DTCs are present.


Techrep--it likely was a dorman or a lower cost equivalent to dorman. I'll check records and see what I put in. Does the FPDM manage fuel delivery during starts differently then while running? I thought it just used PWM to vary the pump pressure since my truck doesn't have a tank return line (as I understand it). That is assuming it is fuel--it maybe is a spark problem and the starting fluid just compensates for it? Thoughts on this theory?.


A1Richard--thanks for the relay about your friend's COP problems. Would I have been able to start it with the starting fluid though when I get the no start condition? Maybe the code reader will point me towards this if there are issues. I'm guessing it is fuel delivery though but could be wrong.


Martian-Agree that no time like the present to do 5.4 plugs. They were done at 100k (truck has 125k on it now) by a Ford dealer.

 

You stated.. So it has spark because it starts with starting fluid right..this tells me it's not getting fuel..

 

Yep I agree...just wanted to stink check that maybe enough COPs aren't firing to light off the gasoline, but when I put starter fluid in there it lights that stuff off because it is so flammable. Simplest solution first though...I'll check out the FPDM

Update--NO DTCs

 

There isn't a shrader valve on these to check fuel rail pressure . If pressure sensor thinks it has pressure its not going to tell fdm to start pump hence no fuel . Or the fdm is bad above the spare tire .
I think I would try a new sensor first .
I also had fits with plug on fdm above spare tire . Sand caused plug gasket problems, seemed to connect but was intermittent ,cleaned out- removed bad gasket and it has worked since .Drove me nuts ,broke down every 5 miles or so, I had to get under her in the blazing heat and go back and forth between the new module and the old one which wasn't bad to start with-- just changed for preventive maint .
I should put a new plug on it but I was fighting vertigo at the time also . Too bad there isn't a shrader valve aftermarket supplier for these-- maybe it could be mounted under pressure sensor .
Remember reliability is job 1 ???

 

Thanks everyone, here is an update

I was on a long trip and truck started idling very low (300rpms) or so when I was at a stop light. Could get it to run normal with some throttle blips, then finally stalled out at the house, but started right back up and idled normally.

After a night camping it wouldn't start on me again. So I changed the FPDM and still wouldn't start. Some ether in the intake and it fired right up. No DTCs either.

I'll look at the pressure sensor. Is the pressure sensor the black looking thing on the right (looking at the engine) side of the fuel rail. Next time it no-starts I'll also try wiggling the FPDM. Does this car also have a fuel pump relay somewhere? Thoughts on fuel pump going bad?

 

Pressure sensor I believe is on the driver's side rail, basically the only thing in the top of the rail. Next in line after that if that doesn't do anything, I think, just might be the fuel pump.