RA010223

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-44-pc...3&blockType=G3



let me know if that link works

pmk

I just finished the passenger side manifold on an 05 and managed to jack the motor high enough that the mount studs slipped out of alignment with the slots in the frame. I looked all over for a place to put a strap or to pry and came up with nothing. Last night I slept terribly, getting the mount lined up was all I could think of. This morning I reached through an opening in the frame and pried on the mount studs and lo and behold they moved. I was surprised the rubber isolator in the mount wasn't harder. I pried them forward through the side of the frame and toward the driver's side by prying on the innermost stud with a small pry bar and block of wood for a fulcrum. It took about fifteen minutes and the mount was back in the frame. The neighbors thought I'd lost my mind when they saw me dancing in the driveway. Bottom line, don't jack the motor high enough that the mount bolts clear the frame slots. If you do, there's a fairly easy way to get them realigned so it's not the end of the world, just another pain in the **** to deal with on this project.

JaredTanner

Worked like a champ. Thank you!!

Terry W

I have one broken stud that I'm trying to remove with the manifold still on the vehicle. It seems like it is case harden. I must have gone thru 20 drill bits not even a dent. I can use a stone bit and it grinds it down but the bits won't cut into the stud. Any suggestions? I'm using a Dremel with a 90 degree head. The only thing I can get in there. 2005 F150 5.4

Terry W

Update. I used a small gray stone in the Dremel and that seemed open up the stud enough to use a drill bit for hardened steel. But using the ez out to remove the stud is not working. Feels like its going to break. I need to be able to drill a larger hole for a bigger ez out. Problem is the dremel mandrel is to small and thats the only thing I can get in there. I need to use the truck this week so I'll grind down some bits to fit the Dremel and go at it again next week.

Strykerxm

Just had the pleasure of fixing my truck today. Had a broken stud (bottom-rear) that caused the infamous leak. I just want to share some tips.
Must Haves:
1. Good penetrating oil- P.B Blast or Kroil works well
2. Buy a good Gasket set- Had good luck with Felpro
3. Buy a can of copper gasket sealer- permatex
4. Order/Buy a Titan Stud remover, really worked well removing other studs.
5. Buy a S/S Stud Kit
6. While your at Napa or autozone, check price/availability of a replacement manifold, will most likely be Dorman. Also, call local Ford dealer, price was actually a few dollars cheaper at my local dealership... Go figure.
Anyway, remove the inner fender and loosen pipe at the collector,loosen all manifold bolts and remove manifold. Use the Titan if you are lucky enough to have enough of the surviving stud to grip, otherwise, if it is flush you can mig weld a nut and twist out, use a left handed drill bit or drill a hole and use an extractor. In my case, the stud broke off about 1/8" below the surface of the head and Believe it or not I could mig weld a "post" up to the surface, then weld a nut and remove- this may not seem intuitive, but it worked!
My manifold flange was also warped from the heat, instead of buying a new one, I surface ground the mounting surface and reused. You need to check the surface with a good straight edge, if it's warped bad enough it will not last and will be back to haunt you quickly. I put everything back except the inner fender, Will need to re-tighten after bringing the engine up to temp and it's easier to get at the nuts without the inner fender installed. All in all this was roughly a 6 hr.job for me, including lunch and I saved some money vs. going to the dealer. Hope this helps and good luck!
Rick

screamineagle

Thanks for sharing! Sounds like you had an easier time than most. Did you have to raise the engine at all?

kozal01

iTrader: (2)

Good info, you got lucky it was the rear stud and not a front one. The front studs are what you have to raise the engine to get to.

Strykerxm

True enough, the front studs are more difficult! Wasn't my favorite job to do and your sure as hell glad when it's done.Just to finish my story, I ran the truck after it was finished to really warm it up, let it set overnight then tightened the nuts in the morning with the engine cold. I got about 1/2 turn on each of the 8 nuts Reinstalled the liner, tire etc. So far it's been good. Other than the 3-pc. Spark plugs and pass side exhaust manifold the 5.4 isn't too bad, still would rather have a diesel ��

07ford

I just finished my passenger side manifold, 3 broken studs, 2 on the rear most cylinder and one on the first cylinder, bottom. A right angle air drill from harbor freight and set of Dewalt cobalt bits that I shortened and an ez out made quick work of them once the manifold was out. I don't know what dealers charge hear, cost me 115 for the manifold and studs. If anyone needs more detail as to how to get it done let me know, it was surprisingly not that hard.