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P0171 = bank 1 too lean. Check the fuel filter as Lutter suggested, Also check the foam around your air filter tray to make sure it's sealing into the air box properly. How's your 4wd working? You could have a vacuum leak.
thank you Martian....
fuel filter is new...
I dont have any foam arround air filter tray...it was something on the front but i removed it when instaling K&N...as it is before Maf i believe it should not be big deal(?)
I never tried 4wd....too scare to find another thing broken as i believe original owner did not use it for years....could be air leaking somewhere there?
fuel filter is new....but as i discovered today it is most likely not fuel related as truck got no torque/reving high and shakes on OD even on gas fuel now...
Fix the foam. It is a big deal. They don't just put things there for fun. There are quite a few threads on here about the problems caused by not having the foam on the airbox. Might not be what is causing your problem but you need it on there.
Fix the foam. It is a big deal. They don't just put things there for fun. There are quite a few threads on here about the problems caused by not having the foam on the airbox. Might not be what is causing your problem but you need it on there.
You can check the air box or vacuum lines by spraying carb cleaner on them or by spraying an unlit propane torch near them. If your engine idle changes from sucking in either, you have a leak.
Use your Torque Pro capability more to your advantage
Originally Posted by LudoUK
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Im about to buy new catalytic converters and plug all nee 4oxygen sensors. Now rear once are unplaged.
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^^^^ What is the state of this at the moment. If there are sensors plugged / eliminated .... all bets are off and all anybody can do is make SWAGs.
You actually have the BEST code reader and scanner on the market (Torque Pro). I would strongly discourage going back to the Free version. In fact - as for your CATS - you can easily verify if they are working properly with Torque Pro by setting up Torque gauges for front and rear O2 sensors as described in this post: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/does-yo...4/#post5229197
//////TWO other points.
1: The foam around air box is a rabbit trail (as to do with a lean code) >>>>> You have mentioned you have a K&N (which seems generally more susceptible to lean codes), with the stock air box is removed. BESIDES - in both cases the foam seal is 'post' MAF and does not subject the PCM to unmetered air.
2: Looking for a Vacuum leak by spraying a combustible liquid or gas will not be noticeable in engine idle speed or quality. The PCM is much too quick to compensate. BUT - again, you have the best scan tool available for finding a vacuum leak. Set up gauges for Short Term Fuel Trim on both banks, then spray all around while "LIVE MONITORING" your Torque gauges. You can find a vacuum leak in minutes. (If you don't believe it - just spray some in your intake and watch STFT go crazy. Here is an example. BTW. I prefer unlit propane as it is not as damaging to rubber components and works equally as well. https://www.f150forum.com/f12/normal...3/#post4209216
Finally, you mentioned a Torque indication that you were NOT going into 'Closed Loop' due to insufficient temperature - ??? All of which can be check with Torque Pro. Open/Closed Loop is available at PID 1103, bit 6. And ECT is available in your FORD set of extended PIDs.
Use that Torque facility to its fullest.
Good Luck.
2: Looking for a Vacuum leak by spraying a combustible liquid or gas will not be noticeable in engine idle speed or quality. The PCM is much too quick to compensate. BUT - again, you have the best scan tool available for finding a vacuum leak. Set up gauges for Short Term Fuel Trim on both banks, then spray all around while "LIVE MONITORING" your Torque gauges. You can find a vacuum leak in minutes. (If you don't believe it - just spray some in your intake and watch STFT go crazy. Here is an example. BTW. I prefer unlit propane as it is not as damaging to rubber components and works equally as well. https://www.f150forum.com/f12/normal...3/#post4209216
This worked for me. Don't be so quick to write it off.
^^^^ What is the state of this at the moment. If there are sensors plugged / eliminated .... all bets are off and all anybody can do is make SWAGs.
You actually have the BEST code reader and scanner on the market (Torque Pro). I would strongly discourage going back to the Free version. In fact - as for your CATS - you can easily verify if they are working properly with Torque Pro by setting up Torque gauges for front and rear O2 sensors as described in this post: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/does-yo...4/#post5229197
//////TWO other points.
1: The foam around air box is a rabbit trail (as to do with a lean code) >>>>> You have mentioned you have a K&N (which seems generally more susceptible to lean codes), with the stock air box is removed. BESIDES - in both cases the foam seal is 'post' MAF and does not subject the PCM to unmetered air.
2: Looking for a Vacuum leak by spraying a combustible liquid or gas will not be noticeable in engine idle speed or quality. The PCM is much too quick to compensate. BUT - again, you have the best scan tool available for finding a vacuum leak. Set up gauges for Short Term Fuel Trim on both banks, then spray all around while "LIVE MONITORING" your Torque gauges. You can find a vacuum leak in minutes. (If you don't believe it - just spray some in your intake and watch STFT go crazy. Here is an example. BTW. I prefer unlit propane as it is not as damaging to rubber components and works equally as well. https://www.f150forum.com/f12/normal...3/#post4209216
Finally, you mentioned a Torque indication that you were NOT going into 'Closed Loop' due to insufficient temperature - ??? All of which can be check with Torque Pro. Open/Closed Loop is available at PID 1103, bit 6. And ECT is available in your FORD set of extended PIDs.
Use that Torque facility to its fullest.
Good Luck.
I owe you beer or two mate! thanks for your time...
I now understand what O2closed loop is, but strugling to get any data bcs of that 'insuficient temperature' message. Need to crack torque app first...
Original owner removed cats and left rear sensors unplaged/hanging. We bought it knowing about it. Sure its not best but dont think its reason for engine running so bad as it was like that for few years(rusted now). As i stated im in hunt for good/cheap cats now. Pricey to get them shipped from states to Europe though....
...
...
Pricey to get them shipped from states to Europe though....
Probably so...
Personally, I would most likely put some kind of CATs back on. I do not know the extent their absence would effect other PCM systems.
I know your Catalyst 'readiness' test(s) would never come true - such as CATSTAT - Catalyst Monitor completed this driving cycle. [That's available to Torque at PID # 095D, bit 0.] Then I know the monitor tests cascade - some cannot complete until others are finished.. Such as MISSTAT, Misfire Monitor Completed this drive cycle. [That is available with Torque at PID # 095D, bit 7.]
If these do not complete - certainly there are other parameters that are affected that will keep the engine from performing at optimum.
You don't owe me a beer Mate. Just do anything you can to help us show those god damn 3 year olds in Congress how UTTERLY STUPID THEY LOOK wasting all our tax money and time investigating / fighting / blocking >each other< !!! (looking for the bottom of a bottomless pit) - affectionately known here as the SWAMP!
today truck runs nice on gas(lpg) with no problem but still not good on petrol...hmm
here is a picture of my torque message...might be faulty reader? no unsuficient tempersture message today but still can not rid of this frames...that message on the bottom about faulty reader apperared today first time but its gone now
Sorry about your difficulties with Torque Pro. It happens in situations where multiple electronic devices have to work together - ie: PCM (different manufacturers), Phone (different manufacturers), Bluetooth OBDII adapter (different manufacturers). Amazing anything works!
But your screenshot shows two troubling things -- The "RED" Bluetooth Adapter in upper right indicates Torque is having trouble communicating with it. And as you mentioned the "Faulty OBD Adapter" at the bottom.
What Bluetooth adapter are you using. I've been lucky. I have forever successful used a cheap China one off ebay - Model HHOBD. I originally paid $12.00. I notice they are now #30 bucks - but still not bad. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HHOBD-Tor...-/150933891155?
Seller has 11,000 feedbacks with 99.8 Positive.
ALSO I Note: Each of those "Fuel Status" gauges are individual gauges that can be added to any dashboard screen. A Long Tap on one SHOULD pop up a screen allowing you to Delete it from this dashboard.... or move / drag it to another dashboard screen... is that NOT the case? Same is the case with that "Component Status" gauge so you can see the gauges behind it - or you can "Move it to Back" - behind the other gauge. If this isn't the case - I guess I would suspect some problem with phone/Torque app somehow but have never experienced such a problem.
But, to me, getting this facility working is most important in diagnosing your truck.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 04-08-2017 at 10:27 AM.
Reason: correct adapter link
04-06-2017, 08:57 AM
Just do anything you can to help us show those god damn 3 year olds in Congress how UTTERLY STUPID THEY LOOK wasting all our tax money and time investigating / fighting / blocking >each other< !!! 
(looking for the bottom of a bottomless pit) - affectionately known here as the SWAMP! 
