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I found out earlier this week that changing the front rotors wasn't as simple (OR AS CHEAP) as I thought it was since the wheel bearing is one piece with the rotor. Not only that, but the torque spec is 295 ft-lbs and means to do it "by the book" I need a 3/4 torque wrench to do it and guess what? No stores rent a 3/4 torque wrench, not near me at least.
So, since this isn't a job that I want to do often, I'll have to buy a good quality pair of rotors. What do you folks recommend or are you mostly just slapping the cheapest rotors on to save a few bucks only to do more work later on?
BTW, I do plan to do a 1000 mile tow with my truck either later this year or next when I move. Until then, I have no plans to tow anything, so that move coming up is a factor in my decision on a high quality pair of rotors.
You can get the nuts loose with a 1/2" breaker bar, a 3' piece of pipe, and a lot of strength. I definitely recommend a higher quality breaker bar like Snap On, Matco, or Mac.
I had Ford rotors, but the bearings were going out before the pads. I changed to PowerStop just a month or 2 ago. There is a hub kit out there you can buy and install, then use the cheaper 4x4 rotors.
You can get the nuts loose with a 1/2" breaker bar, a 3' piece of pipe, and a lot of strength. I definitely recommend a higher quality breaker bar like Snap On, Matco, or Mac.
I had Ford rotors, but the bearings were going out before the pads. I changed to PowerStop just a month or 2 ago. There is a hub kit out there you can buy and install, then use the cheaper 4x4 rotors.
I'm buying an impact wrench and CrMo sockets, so taking the nut off is no problem, it's torquing down the new nuts to 295 ft-lbs that has me aggrivated cuz 3/4 torque wrenches are $65 minimum at Harbor Freight, more elsewhere.
it's torquing down the new nuts to 295 ft-lbs that has me aggrivated cuz 3/4 torque wrenches are $65 minimum at Harbor Freight, more elsewhere.
How much do you weigh? 245 ft-lbs means that a 245 lb man standing on the end of a one foot long breaker bar meets the spec. Or a 122.5 lb man on the end of a two foot breaker bar.
Here they are on Amazon not so good reviews. Take it for what its worth. There could be other kits out there, but here is what it looks like. You will need 2 and 2 nuts.
I just did this 2 weekends ago when I installed my 4 inch lift kit. It was the hardest bolt to get loose.
A large breaker bar is the way to get the bolt off. I am 6ft and 300 lbs, and I was bending the 24 inch breaker bar to get it to break loose. Air tools do make it easier, but you'll also have to buy a 36mm impact socket. Which was not easy for me to find locally. I picked one up on Amazon. My air tolls wouldn't budge the bolt. I had to break it loose myself, and then use air tools once it was somewhat loose. The bolt has some red loctite on it.
I was able to do it, but my friend that was helping me couldn't. A breaker bar with an extra piece of pipe might do it for you. I was able to get a 3/4 inch torque wrench from O'Riely's.
Here they are on Amazon not so good reviews. Take it for what its worth. There could be other kits out there, but here is what it looks like. You will need 2 and 2 nuts.
Rock Auto sells this as well. Idk, I won't pull the trigger on these right away, I'd like to hear more feedback from others on this. I've been used enough as a guinea pig in my life.
The only thing I can say is for where I live and how rough the roads are, replacing the front wheel hubs/bearings every 2 years isn't the worst thing.
One question tho: if I replace the rotors/wheel hub, does that require getting the alignment done?
I just did this 2 weekends ago when I installed my 4 inch lift kit. It was the hardest bolt to get loose.
A large breaker bar is the way to get the bolt off. I am 6ft and 300 lbs, and I was bending the 24 inch breaker bar to get it to break loose. Air tools do make it easier, but you'll also have to buy a 36mm impact socket. Which was not easy for me to find locally. I picked one up on Amazon. My air tolls wouldn't budge the bolt. I had to break it loose myself, and then use air tools once it was somewhat loose. The bolt has some red loctite on it.
I was able to do it, but my friend that was helping me couldn't. A breaker bar with an extra piece of pipe might do it for you. I was able to get a 3/4 inch torque wrench from O'Riely's.
If buying a 3/4 torque wrench and returning it for a refund at a store is what it requires, I'll do it. Not something I want to do, but all that money on something I'll use every two years for the next 10 years (hopefully my truck lasts that long) doesn't make much sense. I'd rather put that money into something I'll use more often like a better impact wrench like the Milwaukee high torque one with 1100 ft-lbs breakaway torque.
I'll see if the Porter-Cable I'm picking up will bust the nut off, if not I'm gonna find out first hand how much the 1/2" 2 foot Harbor Freight breaker bar can take.
Been over 100k good To go . When you do a brake job on these calipers they have composite pistons which absorb water . You push them back in doing job and then they stick very intermittently coming out then they don't retract .Only fix is rebuilt calipers . The wheel heats up until it boils grease out of rotors wheel bearing which is small and not replaceable by itself .
Took me awhile to figure this out after polishing surfaces and redoing brake lube . Ruined new rotors and had to replace onetime use nuts at about $14 each .
I got the thats it moment and ordered the centric mod so I can use any 4wd rotor that fits . It comes with everything .
I no longer have to mess withe the 295 pound nuts even tho I have a 300 pound wrench . It comes with bigger bearings so heating is less of a factor .
I do use a breaker bar from harbor freight and a piece of pipe to break those nuts lose . Everyone should have some lengths of steel pipe around . I find as I get older they are more important especailly when tired . Sometimes you have to wring rusty bolts off on some stuff anyway . Its getting harder to find scrap pipe any more so I have a bucket of different sizes and lengths .
There is a formula for getting close to the 295 which involves the length of the wrench and the weight on the end . Those nuts are torque to yield no loctite should be involved. Re-using nuts is very dangerous.
Still on my oe set of front rotors. 11 years and 125k with no vibrations, stops great. I’ve done the pads twice up front and have done both pads and rotors in the rear.
04-12-2019, 09:02 PM
4x2 owners, what front rotors do you use?
