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Wow! RobertP sure knows his stuff, and there's no doubt he's the man to get great stuff from too!
That's good to hear about the clutches, I was on the fence with Kevlar, until you just confirmed that it does cause slip. Gonna stay stock on my clutch plates now too.. No Kevlar on the OD band either?
I'm hoping to rebuild my own when the time comes. How much did you end up spending on parts for the project? Any tools I should consider grabbing for it? Think I should stick with the stock 2800 stall on a new converter? I do Mostly street, hauling and towing with truck.
I'm not in "need" of any work, but I do want stay ahead of the curve for when my tranny does inevitably cry uncle..
So hows the difference now with the shifting? Is she noticeably hooking up quicker, and shifting faster?
Used the Raybestos Pro Series RPS54010 for the OD band. It's not a Kevlar band. I was leaning hard towards the Kevlar but Robert Pearson convinced me otherwise. It's not a good idea for street use. They get hot one time and they are toast.
Nice article on clutch materials found here http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/clutch/
As for the converter, you can't beat the Circle D. With a stall speed of 2600-2800 just like stock it has a billet face, 11" converter, multi-disk, 100 square inches of clutch surface verses stock at 24sqin. It can take 500-600rwhp. Mine was built for a stall speed of 3000rpms. Though with the power in drag slicks it stalls at 3400rpm. It's perfect for my needs. The most I ever tow is 5000lbs and you wouldn't know I had a higher stall converter.
I'll be installing the trans today so I will let you know about performance.
Cost. All the parts came to around $400.00.
You will need a tool for pressing the seals. Not sure what it's called. I'll try to find out.
Last edited by Blown Ford; 04-04-2015 at 10:20 AM.
That is the same place I got my rebuild kit from! The Stage one kit with Raybestos frictions.
Awesome Sigmanf150. Mine arrived yesterday. Here are some pics of my cracked plate and new thicker plate. I also included a pic plate mods for better performance and shifts.
New Super Tuff plate compared to stock.
The Super Tuff plate also came with this handy snub cap. This rids you of the point on the 2-3 accumulator and it braces it firmly against the separator plate. This prevents any movement at all.
Here is the separator plate with holes sizes listed for anyone who wants better performance.
Last edited by Blown Ford; 04-04-2015 at 09:58 AM.
What is the best way to rotate the crankshaft in order to reach the four torque converter bolts? There is a inspection plate that you remove on the engine side, then there is a circle hole on the bottom of the transmission, pop it off, use a good strong flat head and rotate the engine via flywheel, Make sure its in there good to prevent damaging the teeth. (If you dont prefer this, get someone to turn it over by hand with a ratchet at the crankshaft) Then break them loose with whatever fits cant remember, them remove the nuts from the inspection side while holding it still with the flathead so you can break it loose.
What should i do to keep the tourque converter from falling out when i pull the tranny off the motor? Mine stuck in the transmission as it came down to ground level front first, the rear was propped on the exhaust, he had to tap it before it fell out on the ground, but they are thick and hard to damage. Just try your best to get it out gently to where the balancer weights don't get broke off.
Do I need to remove the rear transmission brace runner completely? Yea, get 2 big jacks, and make you a custom board to fit the pan, get a couple 2x4 peices and nail them to a flat thick board. This way you can balance it by the pan as it comes out with your helping friend.
PS. Before touching, Disconnect everything on it at the top that you can reach, drop pan and drain all fluids, make sure filter is good, replace gasket if necessary. Clean your pan!!! Put pan back on before removal. This will save you alot of weight, time and prevention of debree getting into it.
BE 100% SURE THE TRANMISSION IS STABBED CORRECTLY when REINSTALLING OR YOU WILL **** IT UP. Also this is a good time for you to redo the rear main seal. Get the Felpro brand, they are much better made than the little thin motorcraft one.
For anyone curious about the board to fit the trans pan here is mine. I secured it to my jack with a 1/4 flat head bolt and countersunk the hole in the plywood so the bolt would be flush.
Also I highly recommend replacing the torque converter lock nuts anytime you remove it. $6.00. Torque to 26-28ftlbs.
For anyone curious about the board to fit the trans pan here is mine. I secured it to my jack with a 1/4 flat head bolt and countersunk the hole in the plywood so the bolt would be flush.
Also I highly recommend replacing the torque converter lock nuts anytime you remove it. $6.00. Torque to 26-28ftlbs.
Glad to see the board trick helped you! Now get that beast back together.
Glad to see the board trick helped you! Now get that beast back together.
Thanks. I've actually had the board since 2010 when the stock trans failed. Put it in the attic and needed it again after cracking the flexplate running 12.3 in the 1/4 mile lol. Came in handy again. I've had the trans out 4 times now. Like cake work now haha.
Anyway it's back together and feels like new. It's making me seriously consider a built motor so i crank up the boost.
Hey guys you seem pretty experienced with trannys.
i have a 2006 f150 4x4 with 5.4 auto tranny with 217,000km. Its original tranny as far as i know and previous owner 10,000 km ago said he did a transmission flush.
Ive read a few other stories of these trucks clunking while driving down the road after braking then accelerating.
in mine after braking and hitting the gas agressively, i get a moment of rpm building slightly, possibly pressure building back up in tranny then this clunk happens.
so it seems to me its some kind of wear on a clutch pack or some other internal mechanism in the tranny.
normally i would say it wasnt a problem but i did have a possibly catastrophic failure of my tranny lately.
it was hesitating engaging when switching from forward to reverse so i checked the fluid idling in park after this consistantly happened about 5-ten times in same week.
the fluid level was just barely on the checkered area where it says to not add fluid if its this high. there was no evidence of leakage on driveway. Plus I was only days away from parking it until hunting season in november so i didnt add any fluid. I only use this truck as a daily driver in winter and for hunting so maybe 5000km per year.
a couple days later i did a 150 km raodtrip where near the very end of the trip i notice some slipping or hesitation and rpm building when passing other vehicles.
on the final 2 kms i noticed burning smell and just barely got home. After looking under the vehicle it was easily apparent there was a massive leak somewhere as the whole bottom of truck was covered in tranny fluid from belllhousing back.
without going to a carwash it might be hard to tell where the leak is from.
neverthe less, i wanted to check and i had to dump in a whole 5 l jug atf just get it to move and park in garage for inspection.
i only had to move it 50 feet into gargae so not sure if this fully pressured up tranny internals but when inspecting underneath i found no obvious high pressure stream or drip from anywhere. hoses and rear seal seemed cleaner than area near bellhousing.
after idling and revving in park a bit all i could notice was a slow drip then occasional fast drip from flexplate cover area.
SO ... do I assume its front seal?
1. best case scenario it was a external hose leak & can be fixed for under 200 bucks
2. most likely its the front seal, $900 just for labor to remove and install tranny plus labor/parts to replace seal and do a quick internal inspection. Do i just pay about 1100 fior seal replacement and hope all else is good.?
3. those bands or clutches that caused described clunking plus my seal now warrant completely rebuilt tranny with shift kit that adresses factory defects $3500 installed
4. 4500 installed for new ford tranny that may not have upgrades that the rebuilt would
Two local shops both quoted me 2100 cdn for rebuilt tranny and 900 to install
Im fairly mechanically inclined farmboy but definitely no expert mechanic and i can get a rebuilt on kijiji for 1500 plus shipping and my core exchange
is it worth trying to save about 1000-1400 to try this myself, assuming nothing goes wrong.? considering i will need a couple helpers and tranny jack plus need directions how to remove top hard to reach tranny bolts never mind dozens of other tricks of the trade
Hey guys you seem pretty experienced with trannys.
i have a 2006 f150 4x4 with 5.4 auto tranny with 217,000km. Its original tranny as far as i know and previous owner 10,000 km ago said he did a transmission flush.
Ive read a few other stories of these trucks clunking while driving down the road after braking then accelerating.
in mine after braking and hitting the gas agressively, i get a moment of rpm building slightly, possibly pressure building back up in tranny then this clunk happens.
so it seems to me its some kind of wear on a clutch pack or some other internal mechanism in the tranny.
normally i would say it wasnt a problem but i did have a possibly catastrophic failure of my tranny lately.
it was hesitating engaging when switching from forward to reverse so i checked the fluid idling in park after this consistantly happened about 5-ten times in same week.
the fluid level was just barely on the checkered area where it says to not add fluid if its this high. there was no evidence of leakage on driveway. Plus I was only days away from parking it until hunting season in november so i didnt add any fluid. I only use this truck as a daily driver in winter and for hunting so maybe 5000km per year.
a couple days later i did a 150 km raodtrip where near the very end of the trip i notice some slipping or hesitation and rpm building when passing other vehicles.
on the final 2 kms i noticed burning smell and just barely got home. After looking under the vehicle it was easily apparent there was a massive leak somewhere as the whole bottom of truck was covered in tranny fluid from belllhousing back.
without going to a carwash it might be hard to tell where the leak is from.
neverthe less, i wanted to check and i had to dump in a whole 5 l jug atf just get it to move and park in garage for inspection.
i only had to move it 50 feet into gargae so not sure if this fully pressured up tranny internals but when inspecting underneath i found no obvious high pressure stream or drip from anywhere. hoses and rear seal seemed cleaner than area near bellhousing.
after idling and revving in park a bit all i could notice was a slow drip then occasional fast drip from flexplate cover area.
SO ... do I assume its front seal?
1. best case scenario it was a external hose leak & can be fixed for under 200 bucks
2. most likely its the front seal, $900 just for labor to remove and install tranny plus labor/parts to replace seal and do a quick internal inspection. Do i just pay about 1100 fior seal replacement and hope all else is good.?
3. those bands or clutches that caused described clunking plus my seal now warrant completely rebuilt tranny with shift kit that adresses factory defects $3500 installed
4. 4500 installed for new ford tranny that may not have upgrades that the rebuilt would
Two local shops both quoted me 2100 cdn for rebuilt tranny and 900 to install
Im fairly mechanically inclined farmboy but definitely no expert mechanic and i can get a rebuilt on kijiji for 1500 plus shipping and my core exchange
is it worth trying to save about 1000-1400 to try this myself, assuming nothing goes wrong.? considering i will need a couple helpers and tranny jack plus need directions how to remove top hard to reach tranny bolts never mind dozens of other tricks of the trade
Do the swap yourself. I will help in anyway I can. Phone calls, text, or if you are close to NC lend a hand. PM me and I will shoot you my number. The top bolts are easy, you just need a lot of extensions lol.
Quote "Do the swap yourself. I will help in anyway I can. Phone calls, text, or if you are close to NC lend a hand. PM me and I will shoot you my number. The top bolts are easy, you just need a lot of extensions lol"
I am located in western canada so phone text, skype will probly have to do unless you were planning a fishing trip anyways, lol
Im sure its not rocket science, it just seems like it to someone having never done it before.
So yeah having someone walk me through it would be all the confidence i need.
First thing, i will need is a list of special tools like the jack and board that wouldnt be in the average garage
Second, a step by step for removal
then i do a roadtrip to exchange my core for freshly rebuilt one with trans go shift kit in it as well as a drilled seperator plate with stiffener bracket and up grade the intermediate Sprague snapping and the OD servo. [sound like a good rebuild from a guy doing it all his life?]
i am planning to try and fix leaking passenger side exhaust manifold while everything is apart,
should i also rebuild starter too since its a royal pain to remove too?
04-04-2015, 09:41 AM
