650NutKase

I've read some reviews on here that the Centric kit is a hit or miss. Torqued, if you are 205 and you had to jump on a cheater, that spindle nut was waaaayyyy too tight. The bearings that were in the Bosch set of rotors that I replaced had at least 95k on them and were still quiet. Maybe try another brand? I guess what I am getting at is when using the proper tools (3/4" tq wrench) it is not hard to achieve that spec. I'm 192 lbs and was able to easily make the wrench click at 295 because the 3/4" is much longer and heavier than a standard 1/2".

dukedkt442

Full disclaimer: I have zero experience in working on a 2wd 11th gen. So the following question may sound a bit pedantic:

What I'm picturing from above descriptions is a rotor with bearings/races pre-installed, unlike the 4wd rotors that are held in by the wheel and lugs with a separate wheel bearing (a divorced hub). Could you not press out the old bearings/races, and press in the new ones, keeping the rotor rather than pay for a new rotor? That would undoubtedly cheaper.

That being said, I did replace with stock rotors with pressed bearings on my 442 with divorced hubs and larger, separate rotors when I redesigned the suspension and brakes a few years ago, and will eventually do the same to my GMC when I get around to it, so I completely "get it."

650NutKase

That sounds like the procedure for the 4x4's. My Haynes manual, and Ford fastener diagrams do indeed list 295 ft/lbs

F150Torqued

No kidding! BTW, kudos for the generous transposition or type-o. I hafta' admit I said 250, not 205.

Perhaps the backstory might help. I had a horrible sounding "POPPING" while turning tight at parking lot speeds that literally sounded like something could break.(ie: like whacking the frame with a hammer). It transmitted through the whole truck, and its 'frequency' was speed dependent such that on a freeway interchange would be s 'growel'. NAPA insisted NUTS were not properly torqued - so I did all I could do with my 200 lb Torque wrench. Napa ultimately paid for a brake shop visit - who found nothing, but suspected bolts that hold calipers to spindle hub.

I took it to a private shop that impact hammered all the front end bolts/nuts - on stuff I had replaced (total front end, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar ends, struts - etc.) When that didn't stop it, they hammered the spindle nuts good with a 3/4 impact.

NAPA finally made good on their 'Lifetime Warranty'. When I was replacing them ---- I well learned the NUTS were too tight. I twisted a chrome 1/2 > 3/4 adapter. Went to parts store and bought a BLACK one (stamped with 'Max torque 425 ft lbs), and twisted it into. Only way I got the nuts off was using a 24" pipe wrench with a 4' piece of pipe for cheater bar and 'STOOD ON IT'. (all 250 lbs).

Replacement ones are quiet for the moment. But I think the pressed in (SEALED) bearings are undersized or are not lubricated properly.

dukedkt442

I made the mistake of using my 1/2" breaker bar with a 3/8" adapter for into a 17 mm socket to loosen a lug nut, and snapped that sucker at only 100 ft lbs. Ever since then, I won't use an adapter for anything that requires more than ~75 lbs. I also have a dedicated 24" x 1/2" breaker bar with a 1/2" appropriate-sized socket for the lugs in each of my vehicles, as I find it far more convenient and speedy than the factory lug wrench. I've also grown my collection of tools to include 1/2" and 3/4" ratchets, a 1" x 3' breaker bar, and when I'm no longer allowed to borrow it from work, will include a 600 ft-lb 1" torque wrench (it's about 4' long)

Mulestang

I'm not a muscle man, but for me, the nuts came off easily with a standard breaker bar (30"?). Torquing the new ones took a little umph, but wasn't too bad.

tuflehundon

SO I have air tools, and an impact wrench. Is 295 ft/lbs 2 ugga dugga's or 3?

650NutKase

This brings up a good point I want to make. For example, when I did the struts on the truck, the tq spec is 351 ft/lbs if I recall...It took my impact 30 seconds of straight work for it to break them free, so I held it there for 30 seconds putting it back on. Is it perfect, no. But close enough for jazz.

ShirBlackspots

Its hit or miss, it seems. I think I got a good set. A small amount of people on Amazon seem to have gotten a set with bearings that lasts maybe 10,000 miles, but those are rare. My factory front rotors were warped at around 55-58,000 miles. Here it is almost 41,000 miles later, and the Centric rotors are still nice and true. Truck still stops as well as expected for our generation of trucks. BTW, the rear brakes are still the originals. I probably do need to get around to doing them.

Mulestang

My Centrics were a bust, but so were my first set of Bosch Quiet Casts. If I had it all to do over again, I would have gone back with OEMs. YMMV