F150Limited

CPT150, they are exactly the same size. I think the casting is more substantial and it makes the ports appear to be smaller.

Tex71

Man, I had the groosum exhaust tick from the passenger side. Since i was doing all this work though, I'm getting more performance. I put long tubes in with stainless studs and nuts. My total swap for both sides was just under 5 hours. I didnt remove any wheels or slide the starter. I wormed mine out of the bottom and put my headers on from bottom up. The driver side is twice as easy and has more room btw.

F150Limited

You the man, Tex71. I really like to keep everything stock on the Limited.

kozal01

iTrader: (2)

You got lucky, most have have to extract a couple broken studs during this swap, thats what really adds alot of difficulty, there is not much room to work an extractor in there. When I swapped mine the front bottom stud was broken (one leak source) and I broke two more taking the manifold off. Getting those out was a major pain in the ***, took the better part of a day just to get them out.

chayes627

^^^ That's why I' not looking forward to doing mine. The back 2 studs are already broken off.

melrose99

What do I need to pull the broken studs out?

kozal01

iTrader: (2)

Depends on how it broke. If its broken flush to the head you will have to drill the stud and turn it out with an extractor, if it breaks off above the head you might be able to get a pair of vise grips on it to turn it out.

JP2085

Hate to be off topic here but I just have to get one thing straight. You took it to a so-called mechanic and told them do whatever it takes and however much money to fix it and they refuse?? Some mechanic. Good job doing it yourself though!

F150Limited

Hey Melrose99, what kozal01 said. If any of the broken stud is exposed you should soak the exposed threads down with PB Blaster and hope it migrates into the head. As kozal01 said, you can try to strike it with a hammer to break it loose and then lock on it with vice grips. If you cant get a grip on it you might try a stud extractor which is a device that locks on to the atud with a cam action, i.e., the harder you turn-the tighter it grips.

Another option to consider if the stud is exposed is to weld a nut on the stud that is slightly larger than the stud size. Slide the oversized nut on the stud and weld it on. The super heat sometimes will break the bond in the head and you will be able to turn it out with the nut.

If that does not work you will need to drill it out, probably with a short right-angle drill motor and stubby drill bits. Then use an easyout to get the remnant of the stud out. Then chase the cavity with a tap.

And if all of that fails it probably means that you will need to remove the head from the motor and take it to a good machine shop.

F150Limited

Hey, JP2085. Yes, the mechanic wimped out, and lost my future business as a result. I am not afraid of any mechanical job, but I don't have the time to do everything like I used to.