2007 rough idle help
02-09-2017, 07:32 PM
#11
Moderator
The signs are pointing towards no oil pressure. You could try the pump but they don't fail very often. They can fail though. Next possibility could be clogged ports which there isn't really a way to fix. You can try a cleaner but that could dislodge another chunk and make it worse. Next possibly losing pressure somewhere maybe tensioners? Maybe just your timing got off. You used the right parts and replaced them all so you need to put a real oil pressure gauge on and see what your hot idle oil pressure is at. That's where I'd start.
02-09-2017, 08:02 PM
#12
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Did that oil pan get cleaned out
If guides broke then there are pieces jamming the oil pickup tube . Can't be cleaned until you drop pan . It is necessary to remove it . You won't believe how badly that screen gets blocked . Tube is not hard to remove . Oil pan gasket is reuseable , Oil pan on 4x4 is not easy . The seams of the motor has joints they have have new sealant when reinstalling pan . There's lots of how to posts on here.
If your gauge is dropping out , shut her down now . That means you have less than 7 psi pressure.
Mine had to be shut down , so I ran a flush for a few minutes and as expected it ran worse .
Your engine has no tensioners most likely has jumped time .
Plan on new melling 360 oil pump ,clean everything . Vcts , vct housings . cam slot passages etc .
Take cams out clean lash adjusters ,test them, prime them , check rollers for damage . You may be better off replacing all rollers and lash adjusters $265 oem .
Put new tensioners in ,the iron ratcheting type .
If you pull cams it will be easier to time , just mark everything and put it back exactly like it was .
Read svares final fix .
timing
It is easy to get confused timing this engine. Some folks have ended up at the timing point with the two phasors both pointing R up . That means bank 2 drivers side is 180 degrees out . Passenger side should have R up drivers l up .
I don't use special tools, I lift cams to prevent valve to piston contact , cam up= no valves pushed down .
I lift them in sequence and by shop manual . Basically a little at a time from the center out . Everything has to be marked all parts must go back in exactly where they came out .
I use these timing points TDC no.1cyl (passenger side towards radiator) ,timing gear dot at 6 oclock , cams on no 1 and no 5 per shop manual (very important to get this right ).
I find people getting confused with right and left from factory it is drivers right and left not the mechanics view . Drivers side = left , passenger side is right. Print out savres final fix to give to him . All timing jobs require the mechanic to rotate crank by hand 2 full clockwise rotations to verify no valve contact .
Any phasors but oem ford are junk . We have seen it time after time .
If the vct jammed open with junk or bad you will get these problems , inspect their screens
If your gauge is dropping out , shut her down now . That means you have less than 7 psi pressure.
Mine had to be shut down , so I ran a flush for a few minutes and as expected it ran worse .
Your engine has no tensioners most likely has jumped time .
Plan on new melling 360 oil pump ,clean everything . Vcts , vct housings . cam slot passages etc .
Take cams out clean lash adjusters ,test them, prime them , check rollers for damage . You may be better off replacing all rollers and lash adjusters $265 oem .
Put new tensioners in ,the iron ratcheting type .
If you pull cams it will be easier to time , just mark everything and put it back exactly like it was .
Read svares final fix .
timing
It is easy to get confused timing this engine. Some folks have ended up at the timing point with the two phasors both pointing R up . That means bank 2 drivers side is 180 degrees out . Passenger side should have R up drivers l up .
I don't use special tools, I lift cams to prevent valve to piston contact , cam up= no valves pushed down .
I lift them in sequence and by shop manual . Basically a little at a time from the center out . Everything has to be marked all parts must go back in exactly where they came out .
I use these timing points TDC no.1cyl (passenger side towards radiator) ,timing gear dot at 6 oclock , cams on no 1 and no 5 per shop manual (very important to get this right ).
I find people getting confused with right and left from factory it is drivers right and left not the mechanics view . Drivers side = left , passenger side is right. Print out savres final fix to give to him . All timing jobs require the mechanic to rotate crank by hand 2 full clockwise rotations to verify no valve contact .
Any phasors but oem ford are junk . We have seen it time after time .
If the vct jammed open with junk or bad you will get these problems , inspect their screens