brad2424

Brand new to the forum.
Was bucking very hard at idle. Good compression all around, no sludge.
So far in order I've:
Changed the plugs
2 VCT solenoids
New gasket set
Selonoid
Changed the Oil to heavier weight

After the heavier weight oil it's running better but still not back to normal. CEL is on - reading is misfiring.
I see on the forum that many have had similar issues. Any suggestions

BadFish523

Welcome to the forum! Have you ever changed the plugs? What brand of plugs if you did? Have you changed the boots and springs on the coils? Most likely it is just the misfire and we need to figure out what is causing it. We can point you in the right direction with a little diagnosing.

brad2424

Replaced all 8 with E3 Auto Spark Plugs from Advance Auto Parts Replaced "Exact Fit for 2007 Ford F-150 XLT"
Only used two of the three coil/boot kits the others seemed fine - CARQUEST Premium Coil On Plug Boot

BadFish523

These trucks really prefer Motorcraft SP515 plugs. If it was my truck I would change the plugs to the afore mentioned, and replace ALL the boots and springs. Make sure the contact points on the coils are cleaned, and boots are sealed with dielectric grease. If that doesn't fix it then I would probably replace the coil on which ever cylinder is misfiring.

redfishtd

Off brand stuff fails like crazy on this engine . Plugs and boots must be in tip top shape . Boots hold back 30,000 volts from the sides of the heads . I don't care what they look like change them all .
Put some dielectric compound on the ends of each boot . Clean all coil connections , electric doesn't like corrosion .
Torque each plug to 25 foot pounds don't go by feel . Cops rarely fail , they just get bad connections .
This engine unique ,the old engines did not have a 5 inch metal tube for the spark to jump to . The boots are the key . It helps to clean out spark tip area of carbon with carb cleaner . If it's so tight that it can break plugs coming out what do you think it does to new plugs being forced in ? That's right it cracks them . These new plugs are crafted to not break under harsh conditions get aftermarket out of there .

redfishtd

Okay it might smother some of the noise but it's not going to get to some important points . The engine has small passages it must pass thru to get to cams /rollers /lash adjusters .
In the old days the car lots added sawdust to do the same thing . Don't fall for this . I now run 5w-30 because I live in a hot climate but that's as far as I will go .
That heavy stuff is going to cause engine damage .
Do your spark plug area correctly first .

nrivera04

^^Agree with the above 2 posts. E3 plugs are junk in my humble opinion. Our jobber used to sell them for lawnmowers and people would always bring them back... If they're junk in a lawnmower, I can only imagine what they'd do in a picky engine.

And as far as the oil goes. Definitely nothing thicker than 30 weight and use a good quality filter... Motorcraft, Wix, Hastings are all reputable.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Replace all plugs with SP515's with proper torque.. replace boots and springs.. clean COP contacts.. clean throttle body and Maf sensor with proper cleaners .. change fuel filter and check the condition of your FPDM... when you have all that done get back to us..

brad2424

Thanks. Got it.

SCORGE

So...updates?
Truck fixed?