2006 Lariat suddenly won't run....FPDM?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2006 Lariat suddenly won't run....FPDM?
I have a 2006 Lariat with a mere 65,000 miles. Took a drive last night, truck ran fine. Jumped in it tonight and tried to start it and it cranks fine, but won't fire up. There is no usual fuel priming sound. I checked all the fuses, scratched my head, watched a few U-Tube videos on the fuel system troubleshooting and went out a little later to try it again.
On the second try, I heard a very weak sounding prime and the truck DID start....but after about 3 minutes it just died again. Subsequent tries are no go. On these tries there is no two second fuel priming sound heard.
Having started once, it's a foregone conclusion that the fuses and relays are OK. I hate to even consider the fuel pump, but the more likely culprit may be the Fuel Pump Driver Module.
Any advice in what to try next would be appreciated.
Sure throws a wrench in my Christmas plans.
On the second try, I heard a very weak sounding prime and the truck DID start....but after about 3 minutes it just died again. Subsequent tries are no go. On these tries there is no two second fuel priming sound heard.
Having started once, it's a foregone conclusion that the fuses and relays are OK. I hate to even consider the fuel pump, but the more likely culprit may be the Fuel Pump Driver Module.
Any advice in what to try next would be appreciated.
Sure throws a wrench in my Christmas plans.
Last edited by HD494; 12-23-2017 at 11:17 PM.
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HD494 (12-24-2017)
#3
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Drop you spare tire and have a look.. 2 bolts and a plug..
The following users liked this post:
HD494 (12-24-2017)
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies...
I decided to wait till morning light to start work...so it's 5 degrees outside and the first step is already giving me problems. I placed the ignition key in the key lock slot and gently tried to turn it, but it seems frozen.
I tried pouring hot water through it and silicone spray. Next I shot a bunch of deicer in it...still no go. I do have a heat gun I can try....my guess is that it is just rusted shut. The truck is in the garage which is usually 40-50 degrees. I just have to open the garage door to get at the rear end.
Any tip on getting that lock free?...or brute forcing it open?
I decided to wait till morning light to start work...so it's 5 degrees outside and the first step is already giving me problems. I placed the ignition key in the key lock slot and gently tried to turn it, but it seems frozen.
I tried pouring hot water through it and silicone spray. Next I shot a bunch of deicer in it...still no go. I do have a heat gun I can try....my guess is that it is just rusted shut. The truck is in the garage which is usually 40-50 degrees. I just have to open the garage door to get at the rear end.
Any tip on getting that lock free?...or brute forcing it open?
#5
Senior Member
Thanks for the replies...
I decided to wait till morning light to start work...so it's 5 degrees outside and the first step is already giving me problems. I placed the ignition key in the key lock slot and gently tried to turn it, but it seems frozen.
I tried pouring hot water through it and silicone spray. Next I shot a bunch of deicer in it...still no go. I do have a heat gun I can try....my guess is that it is just rusted shut. The truck is in the garage which is usually 40-50 degrees. I just have to open the garage door to get at the rear end.
Any tip on getting that lock free?...or brute forcing it open?
I decided to wait till morning light to start work...so it's 5 degrees outside and the first step is already giving me problems. I placed the ignition key in the key lock slot and gently tried to turn it, but it seems frozen.
I tried pouring hot water through it and silicone spray. Next I shot a bunch of deicer in it...still no go. I do have a heat gun I can try....my guess is that it is just rusted shut. The truck is in the garage which is usually 40-50 degrees. I just have to open the garage door to get at the rear end.
Any tip on getting that lock free?...or brute forcing it open?
Last edited by 2008__XL; 12-24-2017 at 09:27 AM.
The following users liked this post:
HD494 (12-24-2017)
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
..think I'll try soaking it with blaster penetrating catalyst lube first....my can is empty...luckily autozone is open today and they have to module too...
#7
Senior Member
I see most say they just ripped it out.
Mine actually still works as it should, but I remove it yearly and spray it with pb blaster. When I do that, I also lower the spare, air it up and crank it back up.
If you get yours to come out, I highly recommend doing the same.
Also, when you do inspect the FPDM, remove it and make sure to look at the backside. That’s where it usually cracks.
While some have had ok results with the Dorman replacement, my vote goes to Motorcraft. Replaced mine in 2010 as preventative maintenance and haven’t had an issue.
Last edited by 2008__XL; 12-24-2017 at 10:27 AM.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Good News!
After a good soaking of PB blaster and a little persuasion with a hammer and channel locks, the lock opened. Shot a bunch of PB down the throat of the tire winch, lowered the tire and was able to easily pull the FPDM. Guess what? You got it, there was a quarter size hole corroded through the back. Slapped the new one in using the rubber standoffs and she runs like a top again. Thanks for all the help and Merry Christmas to all!
After a good soaking of PB blaster and a little persuasion with a hammer and channel locks, the lock opened. Shot a bunch of PB down the throat of the tire winch, lowered the tire and was able to easily pull the FPDM. Guess what? You got it, there was a quarter size hole corroded through the back. Slapped the new one in using the rubber standoffs and she runs like a top again. Thanks for all the help and Merry Christmas to all!
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Just a side note, I have had an Edge Evolution installed on my dash for years, I set one of the displays for AFRP which I believe is Actual Fuel Rail Pressure in psi. On startup it jumps up to 70, drops to about 46, then settles down to 39.5 psi when running. Barely moves when you hit the gas. LPD is 56 idling to 180 but I think that is tranny pressure.