grss429

Do I have to replace both of them?

I just replaced the solenoid literally yesterday went to ford and bought it. thinking it was the issue. I even have the old one




Alright heres a update with the video... I keep trying to engage 4wd and when I just did it (after video I could see halfshaft spinning.) but i had to try it like 4 different times to get it to engage. and it sounds like the sound is coming from the rearish of the truck?

I pull the vacuum off the solenoid behind battery and there is vacuum in 2wd

I just bought this truck about 2 months ago I've never checked the t-case fluid yet.

lewissa81

I don't know. Click on the link VTX1800N1 posted, and follow the instructions. You'll be able to figure out what is good/bad and what to replace/keep. It is an excellent troubleshooting guide.

grss429

okay thanks also posted video

curtk69

i had similar problems and ended up changing the solenoid on the firewall and the actual actuators. less than $300 CDN for all parts if i remember correctly
both of the fixes are fairly easy but the actuator process is much harder since it requires getting shock/strut combo out of way. its easy to get out of way but diffficult to get back in.

its best to do this asap as if they keep grinding or partially engaging then the wheel hubs may need replacing too. there are over a 100 bucks each i bet

grss429

I replaced the solenoid already, i dont get the grinding noise in 2wd juat when i switch to 4wd

VTX1800N1

You don't need to remove the strut at all. Just disconnect the upper ball joint and outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle. That will give you enough room to get the axle out. You don't need to disconnect the axle from the differential, either, even though the Ford shop manual tells you to.

grss429

Thanks for info but still looking for info on if its actuators or not

VTX1800N1

Go to the link I provided to test them. You are likely going to have to remove them to test that they operate smoothly and quickly. There is no other way to be sure.