redfishtd

He has poured money into this thing , It should run like a scalded dog .
But not running at all is puzzling .
I would get the old fuel out of there and a throttle body is called for since its been taken apart , he painted it also ,maybe paint on some things it shouldn't be on .
He has done so much you need a chart to keep score .
A good new set of eyes are needed for sure .
He said it ran good at first then put it back in the garage ,something very wrong . He has a spark tester I think , he has good fuel pressure . But he did have dirty gas filter after he ran it , maybe some crud in the new injectors .
Good luck

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

The whole sudden death from running good to nothing does scream "electronic component failure" to me.. I'd still wager the TB is what bit the dust, especially if your fuel system is known to be working and brand new.

I just checked out that build thread and it's all coming back to me now. I remember this build from waaaay back!

ng8264723

Now I have to get it towed the 60 miles from Tasca Ford to home. Then I can work on it again. What a pain! Too bad the new tanks don't have a drain!

scobar

iTrader: (4)

The boost bypass is the same as the Lightning, this should not limit the boost production whatsoever. When using the MIRC circuit to control the boost bypass the expectation is full boost condition and throttle response being very linear. When you run the boost bypass, the throttle response becomes quite binary. Expect tires to break loose and chirp, the throttle becomes hot First set of tires after blower install were done in 15k, would not suggest the bypass mod for a daily. My SIL used to talk hella **** about the truck and I threw her the keys when the boost bypass was still on, the pedal only needed to move 1/4" for WOT. My brother drove it back and she became afraid of the truck I have never run the roush tune with the kit so maybe it behaves differently with their calibration but I saw no boost limits or boost dumping.

Because I have seen this topic touched on it is something I have researched and have not been able to prove there is a loss of boost. Thread: https://www.superchargerforums.com/t...nd-fiction.84/

The PCM tie in is for switched ignition. I agree there are other places to tie in, knowing what I know now I think the PCM tie in is dumb and unnecessary.

Here's Roush install manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tzt9y81hd2...01633.pdf?dl=1
Boost bypass doc JDM provides: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5yqwsnawi4...tions.doc?dl=1

Let's see this truck run again

ng8264723

You found my friend Ken's post! He is doing the tune for the truck. That is if I can get it to start

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

If you never ran the stock tune than it's possible JDM just turned off the CMCV signal from the pcm and basically bypassed you that way. So you may have a vac line running to a solenoid that never gets energized. As long as it's closed it's basically just a redundant vac line.. I do however like the vac reservoir for 1 reason, because it will control the rate at which the bypass opens in like you said a more linear fashion.
On the whipple it's basically an on off switch that matches up with vac loss the more the throttle body opens essentially. A delay, in vac loss or delay in vac feed can in theory regulate the boost bypass like a true set of throttle plate secondaries. Kind of like the original CMCV plates we pulled off for our manifolds.
I'm just thinking out loud here.

Eric Kleven

harricanfloyd

I'm late here, but make sure all of your ignition 12v connections are dead nuts. I bought a non running chevy 4.3 that got me into the pick up truck game... the guy I bought it from said it just died. I've since, sold it, held my breath and jumped into a 06 f150 with 200K on it. It's makin some noise but still runs great...anyway that old chevy had a bad coil connection. Though the connector ends were plugged in, the female pins where spread apart and the male end wasn't even making contact within the plug connector... U know what that came from? the guy constantly unplugging and plugging it back in...shoving test leads into the plug to read voltage.. After about a month of dickin around with the truck I finally got it. I OHM'd out every wire out of the PCM lol....I would have kept it, but it was a bare bones 5 spd...only options were power brakes and power steering..

Good Luck