snrusnak

In case you don't want to read about all the info I'm posting, skip to the bold area, I'm trying to find intake manifold bolt part number or an aftermarket set.

I received the new CMCV actuator. I pulled the intake off the truck today, wasn't too bad but I fought a few things. I tried to do it without separating the fuel rail from the manifold and there just wasn't enough room. I had to take the fuel rail with injectors off the manifold. I also had to remove the throttle body and alternator which is obvious. I did not remove the coolant crossover at the front of the manifold, and it really wasn't in the way much at all. There is a vacuum line that connects to the rear bottom of the manifold and it is a PITA to get off. There's no slack so I don't know how I'll get it back on. I'll probably run a new hose and reroute it so it has some slack.

My intake is very gummed up with carbon, and I guess since the CMCV hasn't actuated in who knows how long, there's a lot of buildup at that area. You can actually feel a good amount of resistance when opening/closing the shafts by hand.

So, I'm going to clean it all up, reuse the intake gaskets, and put the new actuator on then reinstall.

I noticed the mounting hole for the passenger rear coil is cracked. I guess someone who previously worked on it over tightened it. I'm just going to leave it alone, it somehow still is tight and has no slack. I don't feel like pulling the valve cover off and replacing it.

Somehow one of the intake manifold bolts came all the way out of the head THEN broke in half, lol. I'm not complaining, I really didn't want it stuck in the head! BUT, I need a new bolt now, and can't find much online. I'd really like to replace the whole set. Does anyone know where I can get a set, or know part numbers?

Also, while I was removing the manifold, there were a bunch of acorns and crap underneath laying on top of the iron block and somehow when I pulled the intake one of the acorns snapped up and went right down into the intake port. DOH! Luckily it was laying on top of the valve and I sucked it out with a shop vac. I ended up vacuuming all intake ports as the vacuum fit nicely in there and figured something may have fallen in that I didn't see.

snrusnak

I put the truck back together today. It was a PITA. Getting that vacuum line reconnected to the back of the intake manifold is tough, but I was able to do it by reaching my hand underneath the intake. I bench tested the new dorman CMCV and it worked fine. The wire loom for the driver side front O2 sensor was being smooshed by the green tab that is on the driver side butterfly shaft. I'm guessing this might be why it came off in the first place. I rerouted the wire loom around the hard vacuum line that goes to the brake booster and no more issue.

After getting all that stuff behind the intakee sorted out (two plugs for knock sensors, one plug for what I assume is the coolant temp, one plug for the CMCV actuator, the main wire loom behind the engine, the wire loom to the driver front O2 sensor, and the vacuum line), the rest was easy. New bolts for the intake manifold since I broke one pulling them out, I figured they all may be compromised. Otherwise I reused all hardware. I wiped clean the injectors, put a dab of oil on the o rings, etc. I replaced the two vacuum lines that run over top the rear of the intake manifold also, as they were dryrotted. I put on a new serpentine belt as mine was getting hard/brittle, and I changed the fuel filter since I had the system depressurized.

So everything is good and it runs fine (although I haven't driven it down the road, yet), but I bought a cheap catch can on amazon which is actually very good quality. I just have it zip tied under the hood for now and I will make a bracket for it later on. But I bought 5/8" heater hose (didn't have fuel line) and it collapsed under the vacuum so no good there. What can I use that won't collapse? Will fuel line collapse? I can buy fuel line online. I'm not going to drive it until I have this resovled as there is not any flow through the pcv system. But I did start it and let it idle a few minutes and it seems fine.

snrusnak

I made another thread for troubleshooting and fixing the IRMC/CMCV:

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/cmcv-ir...7/#post5629979

snrusnak

I ended up with some fuel line for the pcv system that worked fine. This catch can is pretty nice and was very inexpensive. I got it on amazon. I built a bracket for it out of 1/8" aluminum sheet (also got from amazon very affordable). I made a cardboard template to bolt up where the factory intake support bolts to, then transferred that template to the aluminum, cut it out with a band saw and drilled the necessary holes. Then smoothed the edges and powder coated it, I think it turned out pretty good for a quick job.

Now that the pcv is done, I was able to drive the truck a few miles and man what a difference with the CMCV working. I didn't get on it real hard as I want to make sure the tuning is ok which I'm getting finished next sunday, but I can tell a significant difference above ~3k rpms.

snrusnak

So I was supposed to have the truck tuned again now that the intake issue is fixed, but the date I had setup fell through. Going to try again this sunday. I have been driving the truck anyway and it has good power now, much more in line with what I'd expect. And considering the weight of the truck, it moves pretty good. I'm still sort of driving it conservatively though, until the tuning is finished, but it has a ton of torque now. I'll post the dyno #s on sunday.

snrusnak

I'm waiting for the guy to email me the dyno sheet but it made about 260hp and 310lbft of torque. About what I expected. Runs much better and feels very "strong". Certainly not fast, but has a lot of torque. This was on a dynojet. Not sure if it was SAE or STD. The truck is pretty fun to drive now that it's making some power.

PerryB

Cool!

snrusnak

Here's the dyno. Doesn't list rpm which is slightly unusual to me but that's ok, you get the point. I believe this was a second gear pull (he had concerns with the driveshaft and high wheel speed). And it's STD so about 4% higher than SAE. I'm pretty happy with it, it has a lot of torque and feels like it too.

midtenn

Thanks for posting!

snrusnak

I installed a backup camera yesterday and am pretty happy with it. It's a cheap ebay kit but turned out nice. The tailgate handle with camera looks like factory and is a very nice sturdy piece, the rear view mirror is pretty nice and the mount fits well and holds tight, and the camera has a surprisingly good picture. I used the 7 pin trailer harness connector under the rear bumper for my camera reverse 12V signal and ground (I think the 12V wire was black/purple and ground was white). You can google a 7 pin connector and it'll show you which wire is which. For the display/mirror inside the cab I picked up reverse 12V signal from the left kick panel. It was a black/white wire on my truck, the 4th wire from the bottom slot on the left most row. And I tied the ground in with the ground screw right next to that connector. I ran the harness through the big rubber gromet just forward of the driver seat, at the threshold (I drilled a separate hole and it fit snugly). Also drilled a 1" diameter hole in the bed about in line with the crease in the bumper to the left of the license plate (see where I'm pointing in the picture). I chose this spot as there is nothing behind it to block the wiring. And I measured down 1.25" from top of bed (per another set of instructions for a different, more expensive kit I found online, brandmotion). Bought a rubber grommet at the hardware store to put in the hole I drilled in the bed (after putting some paint on it). The mirror also has a button to adjust brightness, which is a nice feature. I think there are 8 brightness settings. And even though the ad said it's not auto darkening, I think it is as when I held the camera up to the front and the light was on for the flash, the screen was automatically adjusting brightness.

My only complaint is that the way the harness is setup I would have to take the panel off the tailgate and unplug the camera, fish the wire out of the hole just to remove the tailgate. In other words, the harness off the camera is not long enough to reach the hole between the tailgate and bed. I'm not sure if they're all like this, but how often do I remove the tailgate.....never lol.

I'm very happy with this kit, I like the screen in the mirror, it is more ergonomical than looking down at the radio while in reverse. And it saved me from buying a fancy radio that I don't want nor need.

I got it on ebay for ~$160. The brand is chixiang. It's a cheap kit from overseas but surprisingly nice. The instructions are essentially non existent but it's a simple install. You need a reverse power signal and a ground for the mirror and for the camera, then just the RCA to connect the two. There's an extra red wire attached with one end of the RCA it is not used. The kit comes with basically everything you need other than the rubber grommet for the hole in the bed.

Also you will need a tool to remove the factory rear view mirror safely, I used the tool made by Equalizer and got it on amazon. I think it was ~$20 or so. Well worth it. It's a red handle tool about 8 inches long and works great.