2005 f150 drivers side bank not firing
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2005 f150 drivers side bank not firing
Hey everyone. Purchased a 2005 f150 3v with known timing issues. Has 200k miles but maintained beautifully especially with our rough Alaskan winters. Guides and tensioners were toast. Cleaned up all plastic in the oil pan and pickup and put new tensioners and guides in. Didn't touch chain, oil pump or phasers. Went to fire up and drivers side bank is dead. I have auto enginuity but not sure what to look for on these gassers. I'm a 7.3l guy. What direction should I start looking?
#2
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Drivers side is bank 2 5-6-7-8
How do you know its not firing do you have spark tester. 12 vdc stands on one side of the cop input pcm pluses grd side .
You have to use noid light on pcm side of coils to see if signal going there .If you did tensioners you should have set up timing.If chain was loose it probably jumped time. Me I would have pulled both cams to prevent valve to piston contact then set up time cams 1 and 5 pointing as to book picture crank gear dot to six o'clock . Cams lifted no valves down to get bent .Lashs ,rollers and heads need cleaned up .Not many special tools required this way.
number 1 passenger side towards radiator -no 5 drivers side towards radiator
You have to use noid light on pcm side of coils to see if signal going there .If you did tensioners you should have set up timing.If chain was loose it probably jumped time. Me I would have pulled both cams to prevent valve to piston contact then set up time cams 1 and 5 pointing as to book picture crank gear dot to six o'clock . Cams lifted no valves down to get bent .Lashs ,rollers and heads need cleaned up .Not many special tools required this way.
number 1 passenger side towards radiator -no 5 drivers side towards radiator
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Only things I'm going off right now is that the exhaust manifold on the right bank is not getting warm at all vs the left bank will be hot to the touch. Can unplug cop's and no change to the right bank. Also wants to die when I throw it in reverse. Barely any power whatsoever. I did not touch phasers or timing as I figured all I was changing was tension era and guides. Left bank chain was loose when I originally tore into it. Would changing phasers and vct's be a good idea while I'm in there? Or just take apart re time and hope for the best. $$$ is the only thing holding me back from everything but I want to do it right
#4
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Is the cam position sensor hooked back up?
#6
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Timing job is not cheap but its your budget
Stay oem on phasors they are not cheap. Chains stretch after this many miles they are so long, a little each link adds up to a lot that will overwhelm the ability of the tensioners to stop it from jumping time.
You must time it if tensioners/guides were bad. Make sure tone wheel doesn't get put on backwards . Vcts should be done as they control all the cam movement .Plug in crankcase sensor before putting on timing cover.
My timing job by me cost $1400 in parts lashs /rollers all new stuff but she runs like a top .
This engine uses dirty engine oil to control the cams thru small passages and screens . The combustion carbon screws this up, keep her clean with oil changes.
Lifting cams is easy and lets you clean cams ,lashs /wells rollers just put everything back exactly how it came out except new stuff. Oil by hand as you install .Cams out means no valve to piston contact and allows you to move crank to get it lined up.
Its hard to get in there so it pays to do it right.
You must time it if tensioners/guides were bad. Make sure tone wheel doesn't get put on backwards . Vcts should be done as they control all the cam movement .Plug in crankcase sensor before putting on timing cover.
My timing job by me cost $1400 in parts lashs /rollers all new stuff but she runs like a top .
This engine uses dirty engine oil to control the cams thru small passages and screens . The combustion carbon screws this up, keep her clean with oil changes.
Lifting cams is easy and lets you clean cams ,lashs /wells rollers just put everything back exactly how it came out except new stuff. Oil by hand as you install .Cams out means no valve to piston contact and allows you to move crank to get it lined up.
Its hard to get in there so it pays to do it right.
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And any special tools needed for rollers and lash adjusters? The truck also came with a livernois tuner that has a phaser lockout option. How do I tell on the phasers if the lockout has actually been installed on the phaser? If it has been locked out then would I not need new phasers? Also thinking about throwing in a melding m340 oil pump in too while I'm there. And links for parts would help immensely. I'm in Alaska and online parts are waaaayyyy cheaper. Thanks again!