Sharkbait03

Okay, so i was driving home one day in the truck cruising at 60 then all of a sudden i lose all power and the truck goes into a limp mode. The check engine light is on and its throwing these 3 codes P0349, P0345, & P2198. Ive checked VCT's and replaced the drivers side as well as the drivers side Camshaft position sensor. Ive unplugged and messed with all the Coil packs, I havent changed any of them. I questioned if it was the cats and i cut them off and tried it again and it was still misfiring/ shaking really rough sounding like a disel and choking itself out after about a minute of idling. It is backfiring through the intake (not a continuous popping just every now and then. I had no signs or ticking of camphaser problems. Also I pulled the driverside valve cover and in the process i knocked the rear vacuum hose off the back of the intake and lost the brakes (still havent gotten under it and hooked it back up yet)

1. Is there an obvious problem I'm missing?
2. Is the vacuum line causing the rough idle (even after pulling the cats)?
3. I'm truly at a lost and I hate seeing it just sit in the yard not being driven.

dukedkt442

Sounds like it lost time, I'd post of pics of both phasers to show where their "fingers" point relative to the timing marks. Guys more knowledgeable than me on how they're supposed to look can chime in.

Sharkbait03

F150Torqued

The engines current position makes it kinda hard to tell, but I believe the Phaser appears to be at base timing. (Ie: The extra (5th) finger should point over the "L" timing mark when they are in base - NO retard - position.) But Passenger side could be the culprit too. AND, this of course doesn't say anything about actual 'chain' timing if it has / had jumped a tooth = but I do not think that is the problem

Your symptoms are common when this gen enters the 'needs a timing job' territory. I'm thinking chain guides may be broken, with debris in the oil pan plugging up the oil pump screen - degrading oil pressure to the point the phasers cannot function properly at iidle. Almost HAVE to remove the oil pan (not TOO big a job) to verify this. It is not wasted time if proves true because pan needs to be cleaned out and oil pump replaced with any timing job anyway.

Good Luck

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Agree with Torqued.. the back fire or popping noise tells me it’s the timing and the chain and guide need to be inspected.

DarrinT04

X3

Sharkbait03

I appreciate it yal. I'm gonna pull the pan on my off days and ill let yal know if i find anything.

Sharkbait03

Alright guys so instead of pulling the pan i had a gut feeling and pulled the driver side valve cover and then wedged the chain and then pulled the driver side phaser... When i did the phaser fell apart. The three tiny pins in the phaser all sheared off and 2 went in the pan and 1 stayed on top of the moter which threw it out of time, i replaced the phaser and its still taken apart now. I just want to make sure everything is right with the cam lobes up top so i dont bend any valves on first start up. Any help? I've been reading different posts on here about different timing jobs I know i need to pull spark plug number 1 and get the motor to tdc but how can i tell if its in the compression stroke or the exhaust???

dukedkt442

Replacing the phaser isn't solving the problem, which is lack of oil TO the phaser. Your tensioners and chains need to be replaced.

Jojodapyro

As well as the oil pump, and drop the pan and clean the pickup tube. Use Ford parts, except the Pump. Get a Melling HV360.


The pump is going to say that it doesn't fit on your motor, but I assure you it will. This is what I installed on my truck.

I also bought an oil pan gasket, and new valve cover gaskets.