2004 Screw will not start - Looking for advice and direction
#21
Member
I am currently having the exact same problem by the looks of things, no spark apparently. Worked fine one day and dead the next. Mine won't even make an effort on quick start though. No codes. Fpdm, fuel filter and plugs all recent. Fuel spits out the line with the filter let go so fuel is good but I haven't tested the pressure yet. I also threw a new crank sensor in it just to check. But nope, that wasn't it. I'll try a new battery as mine is admittedly weak but other than that I'm soon going to get it towed to a shop that can put it on a proper analyzer to see if I can find something more than my Predator can. I'm kind of running out of options, not to mention patience, plus I'm trying not to overthink it either. Generally it has been my experience that the solution to most mechanical problems are rarely the most complicated ones.
#23
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Things to check
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Mass air flow sensor
Intake air temp sensor
Cylinder head temperature/coolant temperature sesnsor
Throttle position sensor
Idle control valve
Fuel pump driver module
Relevant fuses
Fuel inertia switch
Secure code key
Using noid light/voltmeter see if injectors are pulsing
Ceck for spark
Fuel pressure at rail
I had it happen to me, tried all of the above. Had it towed. Started right up at the dealer. :/
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Mass air flow sensor
Intake air temp sensor
Cylinder head temperature/coolant temperature sesnsor
Throttle position sensor
Idle control valve
Fuel pump driver module
Relevant fuses
Fuel inertia switch
Secure code key
Using noid light/voltmeter see if injectors are pulsing
Ceck for spark
Fuel pressure at rail
I had it happen to me, tried all of the above. Had it towed. Started right up at the dealer. :/
#24
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Location: Kansas City
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Found the issue!!! Broken Lash Adjuster
Working every evening I finally got to the problem.
The number 8 cylinder exhaust valve lash adjuster broke, as in came apart.
Here is the broken top and cap:
Here is the piece still in the head:
Any idea how to get the bottom part of the adjuster out, it is stuck in there!? I tried to grab the edge with Vise-Grips and it would not twist or budge. I left it for tonight with PBBlaster sprayed on it.
There is a wire tied around the valve to keep it from dropping, I put my leak down gauge on the cylinder and it held with less than 20% loss over a couple of minutes and the valve slides easy so I am going with the idea that it is not broke and I am not going to pull the heads.
Suggestions on how to get the lower part of that adjuster out?
Ordered a new set of OEM 24 lash adjusters just before posting this.....
The number 8 cylinder exhaust valve lash adjuster broke, as in came apart.
Here is the broken top and cap:
Here is the piece still in the head:
Any idea how to get the bottom part of the adjuster out, it is stuck in there!? I tried to grab the edge with Vise-Grips and it would not twist or budge. I left it for tonight with PBBlaster sprayed on it.
There is a wire tied around the valve to keep it from dropping, I put my leak down gauge on the cylinder and it held with less than 20% loss over a couple of minutes and the valve slides easy so I am going with the idea that it is not broke and I am not going to pull the heads.
Suggestions on how to get the lower part of that adjuster out?
Ordered a new set of OEM 24 lash adjusters just before posting this.....
Last edited by Mike_KC; 04-16-2015 at 11:41 PM. Reason: typo
#25
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Broken Lash Adjuster -
Here is the rocker arm with the roller broken in several pieces:
And here is the spring, top, and keepers still in one piece, all of these pieces were loose and apart in the head once I got the valve covers off.
I am definitely considering myself lucky, which ever piece broke first (the rocker or the lash adjuster) it could had been much worse. I am guessing that there was enough resistance that it caused the drivers side timing to get out.
Once I had the valve covers off and had the loose parts out, I was trying to get the crank TDC and with the crankshaft key in the 11 o'clock position and the passenger side #5 lobes in the correct position, to me the driver's side appeared to be about a tooth off.
The timing chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, and all the other pieces in the front of the engine appeared ok, but I will change everything including the oil pump before it goes back together.
And here is the spring, top, and keepers still in one piece, all of these pieces were loose and apart in the head once I got the valve covers off.
I am definitely considering myself lucky, which ever piece broke first (the rocker or the lash adjuster) it could had been much worse. I am guessing that there was enough resistance that it caused the drivers side timing to get out.
Once I had the valve covers off and had the loose parts out, I was trying to get the crank TDC and with the crankshaft key in the 11 o'clock position and the passenger side #5 lobes in the correct position, to me the driver's side appeared to be about a tooth off.
The timing chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, and all the other pieces in the front of the engine appeared ok, but I will change everything including the oil pump before it goes back together.
#26
Member
I also found the problem. Well technically the mechanic who looked at it found it, and it wasn't nearly as catastrophic as a broken lash adjuster. It turns out the problem was a bad ground to the PCM. Simple but took a little while and some diagnostic work with an analyzer to trace it down. Anyway, problem solved.
#27
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Update - New heads on order
Once I pulled the camshafts out, the journals were scarred or galled.
So... since I don't want a truck payment and I love my truck, I have ordered new heads and cams to install with a high volume oil pump and all the other new parts I have bought.
Currently, I am in the process of removing the block from the truck, so I will be able to clean gasket surfaces and put everything back together as clean as possible.
Heads should be here early next week at the latest so I can start reassembly. My baby has been down a month now, and my dogs are having withdrawals from not riding and I am tired of riding the Goldwing in the rain to work.
So... since I don't want a truck payment and I love my truck, I have ordered new heads and cams to install with a high volume oil pump and all the other new parts I have bought.
Currently, I am in the process of removing the block from the truck, so I will be able to clean gasket surfaces and put everything back together as clean as possible.
Heads should be here early next week at the latest so I can start reassembly. My baby has been down a month now, and my dogs are having withdrawals from not riding and I am tired of riding the Goldwing in the rain to work.