Lead Head

Hows everyone doing......

got a question about the rear pinion seal.....is it supposed to be a booted seal or not.....I had someone replace it for me with a booted seal and is leaking and not sure its the correct one....talked to a few outfits about a replacement and the one they show to fit my truck is not big enough for the yoke to fit into. I found one at one location that fits (1.88") and its not booted and don't know if I should install it or not...anyone have an idea?

Thanks

GATORB8

Ford Part Numbers (From an 06, but I would expect no change):
Seals and Gaskets
Rear Axle
Locking
Pinion Seal

20 - 8.8" Axle
F89Z4676AA $17.00
20 - 9.75" Axle
E8TZ4676B $14.98
20 - 10.25" Axle
E8TZ4676B $14.98
Cover Gasket

Use RTV Sealer.

6 - Axle Seals
5L3Z1S177AB $12.05
Non-Locking

Cover Gasket

Use RTV Sealer.

Pinion Seal

20 - 8.8" Axle
F89Z4676AA $17.00
20 - 9.75" Axle
E8TZ4676B $14.98
20 - 10.25" Axle
E8TZ4676B $14.98
6 - Axle Seals
5L3Z1S177AB $12.05

Rockauto has part numbers and pictures for Timken, National, and SKF

Lead Head

the timken part number 3604 is what I bought.....thanks for the info

Lead Head

or maybe that is autozones part number.....there is a holographic sticker that says A042279438, maybe that is timkens part#

also where should I put the RTV sealer on that it says to use, have never used that before

GATORB8

Sorry, the RTV is for the Diff cover, not the pinion. Both are in the same page where I pulled them.

Drive Pinion Flange and Drive Pinion Seal


Special Tools


Material


Removal
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer Maintenance/Service and Repair.



NOTE: The wheels and disc brake calipers must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.
Remove the disc brake caliper bolts and disc brake caliper.
Using mechanic's wire, position aside the disc brake caliper.



Remove the brake disc.



Index-mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.



Remove the 4 driveshaft flange bolts.



CAUTION: The driveshaft centering socket yoke fits tightly on the pinion flange pilot. Never hammer on the driveshaft or any of its components to disconnect the driveshaft centering socket yoke from the pinion flange. Pry only in the area shown with a suitable tool to disconnect the driveshaft centering socket yoke from the pinion flange.
Using a suitable tool as shown, disconnect the driveshaft centering socket yoke from the pinion flange.
Using mechanic's wire, position the driveshaft aside.



Using a Nm (inch lbs.) torque wrench on the pinion nut, record the torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion gear through several revolutions.



Using the Special tool to hold the pinion flange, remove and discard the pinion nut.



Index-mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to make sure of correct alignment during installation.



Using the special tool, remove the pinion flange.



Force up on the metal flange of the drive pinion seal. Install gripping pliers and strike with a hammer until the drive pinion seal is removed.
Installation
Lubricate the new drive pinion seal with grease.



CAUTION: If the new drive pinion seal becomes misaligned during installation, remove the drive pinion seal and install a new drive pinion seal.
Using the special tool, install a new drive pinion seal.
Lubricate the pinion flange splines with axle lubricant.



NOTE: Disregard the scribe marks if a new pinion flange is being installed.
Align the pinion flange with the drive pinion shaft.




Using the special tools, install the pinion flange.



Position the new pinion nut.



CAUTION: Under no circumstances is the pinion nut to be backed off to reduce drive pinion bearing preload. If reduced drive pinion bearing preload is required, a new drive pinion collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.
CAUTION: Remove the special tool while taking drive pinion bearing preload readings with the Nm (inch lbs.) torque wrench.

Using the special tool to hold the pinion flange, tighten the pinion nut.
Rotate the drive pinion occasionally to make sure the drive pinion bearings are seating correctly.
Install a Nm (inch lbs.) torque wrench on the pinion nut.
Rotating the drive pinion through several revolutions, take frequent drive pinion bearing preload readings until the original recorded drive pinion bearing preload reading is obtained.
If the original recorded drive pinion bearing preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specifications for used drive pinion bearings. If the drive pinion bearing preload is higher than specification, tighten the pinion nut to the original reading as recorded.



Position the driveshaft and align the index marks on the pinion flange.



CAUTION: The driveshaft centering socket yoke fits tightly on the pinion flange pilot. To make sure that the driveshaft centering socket yoke seats squarely on the pinion flange, tighten the driveshaft flange bolts evenly in a cross pattern.
Install the driveshaft flange bolts.
Tighten to 103 Nm (76 ft. lbs.) .



install the brake disc.



install the disc brake caliper and the disc brake caliper bolts.
Tighten to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) .

Lead Head

man, I'm no mechanic by no means but I cant just unbolt the drive shaft from the rear end and pull the seal and install the new seal without having to do all that?

GATORB8

I haven't done it myself, but the Ford procedures indicates you have to pull the pinion nut to install the flange and seal.

If you don't install the pinion nut to the correct amount of preload, you can end up with deeper repairs since the preload can't be undone.

Lead Head

my drive shaft is a one piece drive shaft....four bolts into the rear end and i can just pull the yoke out of the tranny...but maybe thats where i messed up in the beginning and why its still leaking around the seal and need to change it

ZWilson07

No you can't. That pinion nut is what crushes the crush sleeve which sets the preload on the pinion bearings in your rear differential and is a one time use for both the nut and especially the crush sleeve.

Many will say just mark where it was at and count the turns off, and when you put it back together just go 1/16th turn past where it was at and it will keep it within spec. While some have gotten away with this, some have ruined their differential in a hurry doing it.

As much as you hate to read this, the proper way needs to be as he stated, everything down to pulling the wheels and drums/calipers, carrier, checking preload with inch pound torque wrench, etc. That is from the ford manual so some of the "special tools" can be made or find other tools that do the job fine, but the procedure needs to be done in the proper fashion like mentioned. Keep in mind even if you try and have a shop do it, 99% will just do the first cheap way I mentioned. I have only known of one shop that will do it the right way for cheap and he's nowhere near me. Local shops will always want to charge you a full rebuild price to do it the right way.

It really isn't to bad and everything just goes back exactly how it came out. Besides a normal set of good tools, the only thing you really need that most won't have is an beam style inch pound torque wrench that you can pick up for about 50 bucks. Most get worried because of it involving the rearend/gears and are afraid to mess it up, but if you take your time, and just space it out over a weekend, it really isn't that bad.

The hardest part is just making sure when you pull the carrier you keep everything how it was and goes back in the same way, and crushing the new crush sleeve can be a bitch because of around 300-400 ft lbs to crush it (dont quote me on the exact numbers but its up there). Other than that its just taking things out one step at a time.