I'm right in the middle of doing this exact same job!
If someone hasn't already mentioned it, watch FordTechMakuloco's 4-part video on YouTube. He shows you EXACTLY how to do this repair and time it perfectly. The guy can do these engines blindfolded with one arm and a Chihuahua chewing on his ankle!

I took my laptop out to my work bench and watched his video while I was removing the chains. Pretty simple. Get a 32mm 6-point axle socket if you don't have one already. It works great to turn the crank. And the rocket arm tool. Little tricky at first to learn, but you'll catch on quick. It pops the rockers off quick, easy and safely. I had a little trouble with cylinder 8 rocker though. I think I didn't have the tool positioned correctly, but I figured it out.

 

Very cool ........this is great!

 

Let me review:Position crankshaft keyway to 12:00 O’clock position. Observe the two intake cam lobes on cylinder 1 they need to be in the 11 O’clock position.
If not rotate the crank once again so that the crank keyway is in the 12:00 O’clock position. The cam lobes should now be at the 11 O'clock position.
Remove the roller followers at cylinders 1, 4, 5 and 8 as described by Brian...
At this point I can disassemble the chain and sprockets etc.
I am trying to remove the first cam follower. I have the special tool . You got to be kidding me .... There must be an easier way than this ....I can hardly get in there....
So ... I need to remove ALL of the roller followers in order to time this engine? Im not sure I understand all this....

OK ...
After an inspection and actual use there were several issues discovered with these Chineseum tools.
1- The Crankshaft Positioning tool does not fit over the crankshaft. The Slot for the key-way is incorrect. It measures .170" the slot should be at . 187" - .190" max. I will need to broach it
2- The Spring Compressor tool threads will not engage when tool is in place for spring removal. Its just missing the threads. Im thinkin .050" more depth in the threaded **** may help
to grab.
Moral of the story ... don't by Chineseum tools

I enjoy working on vehicles ......but this truck is very frustrating...and cheep tools dont help
Only buy tools from OTC (https://www.otctools.com/)

 

"Moral of the story ... don't by Chineseum tools"

Uh Yup! As Grandpa used to say... "The cheap tool is also your more expensive tool"! There are times you can get away with the "Hecho en China" tool, but it depends on what you're doing with it. I've also read about some of the crank tools not aligning and/or fitting right. That's why I sometimes spend hours of research before I buy. I rely heavily on feedback that others have left. Word of mouth does indeed travel far.

I got lucky on the spring compressor and got the CMA 7639 from the Amazon warehouse deal. Only cost me $26 (normally $42).
It was listed as used due to minor scratches, etc. I certainly couldn't see any. If there was damage, it may have been from someone dropping it out of the box? I doubt it was ever used. And so what if it was. I only need to use it on one engine.
The tool worked perfectly and I couldn't bend the finger-tabs at all (I tried). Very tough little tool. I've never used the OTC spring tool, but I'm betting this CMA brand could easily go toe-to-toe with it.

The Amazon warehouse deals can save you a ton of money, but you have to jump on the deals because they sell out fast. Look for the link right below your 'add to list' button. If they have one listed as used - go check it out.
I got the same deal on the 'cat claw' type of upholstery screwdriver. Only paid $2.60 to my door (regular $7.22). It didn't have the original packaging. Big deal! It was brand new otherwise. Same thing on some of my Moog suspension parts. They were new parts, but listed as used because the boxes were beat to hell. Who cares about a box? Parts were perfect and something like half the cost of regular.

 

I will be back at it today .......

 

OK folks just to be clear...

Remove exhaust roller follower from cylinder #1 right (front cylinder - pass) .........OK got that

Remove both intake roller followers from cylinder #4 right (rear cylinder - pass) ..............OK got that



Remove both intake roller followers from cylinder #5 left (front cylinder - driver) ..............OK got that
Remove exhaust roller follower from cylinder #8 left (rear most cylinder - driver) ....?

For some reason the #8 Exhaust follower will not come out.

Did I do something wrong? It looks like the follower is about to ramp up on the cam lobe.....
so do I need to rotate the crank to move the cam and allow access?

Also I noticed that removing all of the followers is recommended.... Is that necessary ? How do you do that ? what is the correct way.....
Any help would be appreciated..

 

You seem to have forgotten what you read on my instructions further up (see this post):

Position crankshaft keyway to 12:00
Remove exhaust roller follower from cylinder #1 right (front cylinder - passenger side)
Remove intake roller followers from cylinder #4 right (rear cylimder - passenger side)
Remove intake roller followers from cylinder #5 left (front cylinder - drivers side)

Position crankshaft keyway to 6:00
Remove exhaust roller follower from cylinder #8 left (rear most cylinder - drivers side)

Removing all the roller followers is required so you can properly time the engine. The steps above place the cam shafts in a neutral position so you can remove the chains, chain guides and tensioners.

 

Position crankshaft keyway to 6:00 Yes I overlooked that .....Duh .....
Actually the video Pt. 3 does not tell you to go to 6 Oclock at that point .......?
So I tried again and that sucker still wont come out. .......
I ordered a new tool From OTC..... the Chineseum tool is bending out of shape. It may not be holding the right dimensions.
Yes I follow you ....about the chains and tensioners...

So what about the other followers...How do they come out ?
Question ...do you know the torque specs for the VCT plates on the cylinder heads? I am replacing those gaskets as well.

BTW I really do Appreciate all the help ...

 

Two resources I have might be helpful ---- in other areas, but NEITHER seems to mention VCT valve bodies -> Head bolt torque specs. I did mine and don't even remember what I did, (other than NOT strip them). Just snug-em up, and give her a little extra twist and quit.

BTW. While you got those dudes off, blow out the passage ways and remove / clean the little screens (Like those fine VCT screens).

 

Thank you sir ...
Yes I removed them and there was some particles in there. Thats why I want to remove the VCT Valve Bodies. Im thinkin I may use the same torque as another similar bolt....I sourced 2 new Ford VCTs and per your suggestion two new Phasers from Fairway ford. They gave me a great price. I also dropped the front axle and removed the pan....Lots of debris. in there...
The Chineseum tool I got is a piece of poop ..... I ordered a New tool from OTC.

Im chuggin along ...cant see..... no strength in my fingers ... When Im on the floor I cant get up ...Never had this problem when i was 35. Its a bitch gettin old....
Ill try again tomorrow.