Yes I will remove the Pick up tube / screen. It looks clean but there was quite a bit of metal from the chain rubbing the front cover.
Im hoping the filter caught most of it ...its only been a few thousand miles since the last oil change according to the service records.
Im cleaning up the pan and the cross members....and giving them some paint while Im at it.
Yes I will filling up the filter before I install it ....and since the plugs are out Ill crank it to prime it before the first start.
Again Im takin my time .....

 

Forgive me for asking, but watching many of these threads and the problems getting to various areas to work on this engine... wouldn't it be easier to pull the engine to get the work done? I've never pulled an engine from these newer rigs, so I don't know what kind of bear it is (or isn't).
One person said they actually remove the cab to change the engines. Sounds simple enough if you have or build an overhead gantry of some sort?
No, I'm not saying yank the engine just to get at the back spark plugs, but if you have multiple issues like the oil pan, phasers, etc..?

Or is pulling these engines a complete nightmare? The transmission re-align is typically the biggest problem. Or at least it was in the old-school engines - especially the manual trans.

I'm going to be replacing my engine hopefully in the near future, so I'm seriously considering the cab-remove method. Pop that off and you have 100% easy-peasy access to it all. Including the tranny. I just have to build a gantry. I already have a big mega-ton chain hoist, engine picker, etc.

 

Find fordtechmakeuloco on YouTube. He has a video that will show exactly what is involved to pull engine, swap items over to reman, and resinstall reman.

 

Yes ... in my opinion it would have been better for me to just pull the engine. I dropped the front axle to remove the oil pan....

1- You have broken spark plugs ..... You cant get to the rear plugs and properly use any kind of tool....You need to pull the heads or the engine...
2- Cracked Exhaust manifolds YOU WILL break off bolts getting them out. You will need to pull the engine or the heads....There is NO WAY to drill out the brokrn bolts when the frame is in the way.
3- Removing the pan to clean out the bits of Timing chain guides...
4- leaky rear main seal ..... Pull the trans or the engine ....

Pull it and fix everything at once.Thats my take ....

BTW the reman engines last about 6 months if your lucky. They use Chineseum parts.... ask me how I know.....

 

@laterongc Its FordTechMakuloco

 

was just typing on phone off memory.

 

OK ...... Im back on the job...... I need some help. I am ready to remove the timing chain. however I would like to time the engine before I remove the chain. The arrow on the right will line up and then the arrow on the left will not.
How many times do I need to turn this so all the marks line up . I think I found the copper colored links an marked them with a sharpie. Im trying to understand this before I remove anything....

 

You can't time the engine before removing the old chain. You can only do it as you add the new chains.

This is how you're supposed to do it:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4yiy9orbqi...tions.txt?dl=0

Torque specs for everything:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k1njb13bx6...specs.txt?dl=0

 

ShirBlackspots

Thank you for your response. Yes I understand, however I never did this before so I wanted to line up the timing marks and then add witness marks with some white paint. When its re assembled the witness marks would insure I did it correctly...
Just my way of thinking.

 

Well, usually, the chains already have links that are either colored lighter or darker than the rest of the chain (The Melling chains I bought had silver color links for the timing marks, the rest were gray). But what you wanted to do wasn't going to work anyway.