When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't jump to conclusions about that. In that position (looks correct), the valve springs have SUGNIFICANT torque tension on the chain. In fact, if cam and all roller/followers are in place on re-assembly, you will have to use a break over bar or something to torque the Phaser against the valve springs to get the chain links to align on the passenger Phaser. (I had to have a helper do that while I put the chain in place.
Yes, 3391SCC is the kit with the metal ratcheting tensioners. As for the cam phasers, or "sprockets" as you call them, there is only one model number for both sides. The Melling part number is VCTA-1000, Rock Auto sells them for $210 a piece. The 3391SCC is $202.79 on RockAuto.
Great Information. Thank you!
Just got off the phone with https://www.fairwayfordparts.net/
They just happened to have the last two phasers. I got em.....
I will order the timing chains and gaskets later today...
Last edited by Anthony C; Jun 15, 2020 at 08:40 AM.
On Ford OEM timing chains, the timing marks are dark gray links. On the Melling chains, they're a lighter color than the rest of the chain (silver, instead of grey). Don't forget: Two marks over the R/L (R for passenger, L for drivers side - facing the front of the truck) marks on the phasers, and one mark under the dot on the crank sprocket.
Also, you need to order the Melling M340HV oil pump, and its recommended to change your roller followers and lash adjusters (24 of each). Then there's the special tools you'll need to order (such as the one to compress the valve spring, while pushing down on the valve with your finger). Watch FordTechMakuloco's videos on doing the timing, and do some supplemental video research for some stuff he doesn't cover (I watched Bull****Korner/BSK garage).
Find the Ford technical manuals and download them (735MB, and they're not concise either), and I created my own instructions out of that, because it fails to mention you need rotate the crank keyway to 6:00 just to get the exhaust roller follower out from cylinder 8
Thank you ShirBlackspots I will review this information. All parts and special tools are on order. Not sure if I can afford roller followers and lash adjusters Im low on cash ....
Visually they look to be OK .... I ordered the tool ....so I will compress each spring to see if there is a loose roller. What about the Lifters.
My problem now is that I cant get the P/S bolt out. I made 2 box wrenches 6 point. The one behind the High pressure fitting. The other two came right out of course... Any Tips... Im soaking it with Kroil.
Last edited by Anthony C; Jun 15, 2020 at 01:28 PM.
Yeah, I said I was low on cash to buy the roller followers and lash adjusters, but I figured out how to get them, which is why I settled on the Ford roller followers, and EngineTech lash adjusters. They were cheaper (by half) than buying Melling roller followers and lash adjusters)
You'll need the spring compressor anyway to remove the all of roller followers (after removing the timing chains), even if you aren't replacing them, because you have to remove them all anyway to properly set the cams after installing the new cam phasers. It pretty much took me all day long to get all 24 out, and later, nearly all day to get them in. That spring compressor will sometimes want to slip off the valve spring if it isn't set just right. The reason for pushing on the valve stem while compressing the valve spring with the tool is to ensure the valve stem doesn't come loose from the keepers, and fall into the cylinder.
Also, those roller followers are only kept in by valve spring pressure and the cams above them, so if they're not compressed by a cam lobe (or pushed up by a lash adjuster), they'll seem loose, mainly because there's no oil pressure because the engine isn't running. There's no such thing as a lifter in these engines, those are lash adjusters, which push up against the roller followers to make sure they're tight against the cam when not being compressed by a cam lobe.
As for the power steering pump, use a socket wrench, but also some PB Blaster before to penetrate the rust.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Jun 15, 2020 at 02:03 PM.