2004 F150 Lariat 4x4:

Just happened today. Transmission shifts forward into D, 2, 1 in 2WD, 4WD high and 4WD low. No reverse in any mode, nor is it tossing any CEL codes.

Dash indicator is aligned fine and I can hear and feel the cable shifting the transmission into the correct gears so I doubt it's a cable or adjustment issue. I also did a full fluid/filter change last fall. It's been working well.

Everything was working fine, went into town and back home. We have lots of snow on the driveway so I did a few back-up and reverse to try and clear some of it away for our other car. Everything worked fine. Then poof... Now it won't go into reverse. No warning, no noises... just POOF.

When putting into reverse, I can hear the RPM drop a tiny bit like it should, but it quickly goes back to a normal RPM like it does when you normally shift to park. Truck doesn't even attempt to go into reverse. Putting it into reverse is exactly like it's in neutral.

Also while in reverse, I can rev high and no reverse. Even while in high RPM and shifting to park, no noise, nothing. It's like when you have a driveline off or wheels off the ground and you are in running in gear. Then when you shift to park... the transmission is still spinning, so you would expect a sound while the transmission engages the parking pawl. Mine isn't even doing that.

Please tell me I didn't break something major? With 15" of snow in my driveway, I'm at my wits end. Is there possibly a relay or something I may have knocked loose while plowing my driveway? I thought I read about some kind of reverse electronics on these trucks, but I could be wrong.

Thank you,

 

With confidence I can say that the reverse paw on the reverse band broke. Requires complete tear down to repair. Reverse band is nearly the last component to come out of the transmission housing. Simple repair just takes hours of disassembly to get to it, pros do it in minutes but still requires the trans to be removed from truck.

 

That's what I'm afraid of.

I also just read that some had trouble going into reverse if there's snow packed around the transmission? I have about 16" of snow on the ground plus whatever I managed to chuck under it while messing about in my driveway. Probably wishful thinking but?

I already had plans to replace the transmission along with the engine in the near future. Just picked a hell of a time to break - if indeed that's what happened. Unprecedented snow on the ground right now and it has to break right in my driveway. I suppose better here than up in the woods where I often go.

Normally I'd rebuild the transmission myself as I have a few under my belt, but not with snow on the ground and my very bad back. I've found it easier to pull engine/trans all at the same time rather than doing it from underneath, but that's with old-school trucks. These new ones have very little room to pull things out. In fact, I don't think it's even possible to do eng/trans at the same time in these trucks. Most pull the body I think.

And if I have to pull the trans - I'd much rather go ahead and do the engine too. I did fix all the timing crap on her and it's been running beautifully, but as we all know - TICK TOCK! Only a matter of time before she fails again. Rebuilt Triton's fixed al the problems. Still cheaper than buying a new truck by far.

And here I thought I was off to a better start of the year!

 

While on this topic... for Grins and Giggles... Can anyone recommend a place to buy a rebuilt transmission to have shipped to my mechanic? I looked at Fraser before doing my timing repair. At the time they had a decent package deal that I was planning on doing one day. I think it was around $7k for a rebuilt 5.4 and transmission. Dunno what they want today.

Well... that day might be here... for the transmission anyway. Just curious what some of you might recommend seeing as you can order just about anything online these days. Even a new truck! (cough... $50k... cough... cough). A $3k - $4k trans job is a pee in the bucket comparably.

Gonna get the lawn chair ready to see how the pro's winch my truck backwards in 16" of snow and onto a trailer. Actually they just need to get it into a position to drive it forward.
This is new for me. I always did my own work and have never needed my truck towed. I'm a little humbled, pissed, and feeling my age I suppose. I knew the day would come when I have to let someone else work on my Mistress .

But I don't have to like it...!

Thanks,

 

LKQ is a nation wide(?) used auto parts dealer and they ship to you.
I generally buy my used parts from U-Pull yards near me, I have two good ones within 50 miles.
Read you door jam sticker to confirm what transmission you have.
I am 99.44% sure 4R70E and 4R75E are direct interchange. 2003 and older transmissions, 4R70W and 4R75W will not work without major internal parts swapping, don't go there.

Model Year 2004
Information extracted from WSM page 100-00-11
Transmission Code

• A — 4-speed automatic, 4R70E
• B— 4-speed automatic, 4R75E

Model Year 2005

• A — 4-speed automatic, 4R70E
• B— 4-speed automatic, 4R75E
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C

Model Year 2006
Information extracted from WSM page 100-01-8

• A — 4-speed automatic, 4R70E F-150
• F— 4-speed automatic, 4R75E Mark LT
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C - F150
• Q — 4-speed automatic, 4R75E (Livonia) F-150/Mark LT

Model Year 2007
Information extracted from WSM page 100-01-8
Transmission Code

• Q — 4-speed automatic, 4R75E (Livonia) F-150/Mark LT
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C - F150

Model Year 2008
Information extracted from WSM page 100-01-9
Transmission Code

• Q — 4-speed automatic, 4R75E (Livonia) F-150/Mark LT
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C - F150

 

Thank you very much for this info. Here's the VIN tag on my truck. Based on your info, the trans code is B? Right next to the axle code? This means I have the 4R75E as I thought.

I have quotes coming in. It's looking like I figured... around $4K to 5K in and out for a reman.
One also said they are required to replace the radiator - which I'm not exactly sure why unless there was something wrong with the OEM cooler design? I'm all for a new radiator if it improves my AC ! Lol. My radiator has never given me problems. Maybe they can stuff a larger one in with more cores.

Question: I installed an external filter (and temp gauge) on my transmission cooler line. Will this void the warranty on a new transmission? Not sure if the shop will be allowed to use it. I've used these on a few of my trucks as added protection since Ford's trans filter was never that great (imo). I think most remans require some kind of in-line filter anyway. I'd like to keep the one I installed if it doesn't mess with the warranty. It takes the FL1A or equivalent type of screw-on filter. (I use Wix ).


Thanks again! This headache will be over soon.... I hope. 16" of snow in the driveway when I busted my girl and we just got another 3 last night.. and we're supposed to dip into single digit cold. Time to break out my Phazer sled I think...

 

According to Ford Workshop Manual the B under TR column equals 4R75E as you suspected. Your installer is going to have to answer your questions but I would like to know your filter info and install information.

 

Let me dig up the info on the filter Jim and I'll get back to you. They're cheap and fairly easy to install.

 

This is the filter mount I used for my transmission. You can find them in several configurations and brands. Some have a threaded hole for an accessory such as a temp or pressure gauge and some don't. Some are dual filter as well.

Amazon and other places have them for about $25 on up. Search for "remote oil filter", or "remote transmission filter". The one I got has the threaded hole that I used for a transmission temperature gauge sensor. I mounted that gauge on driver's side A-pillar using a dual gauge pod.

I mounted the remote filter on the driver's side frame near the OEM trans cooler and up high enough so it can't get hit by anything if I'm off-road. Also note: Use only high strength band clamps such as those for fuel injection. Also only use hose designed for transmission line use. Regular fuel line might work for a while, but you're taking a risk of blowing the line (don't ask how I know this... lol). Might cost a bit more, but trust me! Don't skimp here.

I can't get under my truck at the moment to take a picture of my install (too much snow). I tapped into one of the lines going to the radiator. There are many good discussions on which side to put the filter on (inbound to the cooler(s) or the outbound side). Honestly I don't recall at the moment which end I put mine on. I don't think it really matters. I've ran them both ways on different trucks. I'll get a pic soon as I can.

I use only WIX filters on it and change it out every-other engine oil change (I don't drive much, so that equals about once per year). I used Motorcraft FL1A for a while, but lately they've been known to blow apart inside. There's many discussions about it. I only use WIX for engine too.

 

stankyjeans,

Good info.

Thank you
jimboy