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2004 f150 4.6 head/intake gasket replacement

 
Old 02-16-2019, 08:44 PM
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So I'm done for the day....bad news is I have the wrong head...if anyone can help with the correct casting number that would be awesome. (2004 f150 4.6) the wrong one was the 1l2e. Good news is no broken bolts or crazy issues so far...the biggest headache was the fan and water pump (I blame bad ford engineers for that one) The one tool I forget today was my holder for the front crankshaft pulley. So the intake, valve cover, 90% of the front accessories, fuel rail and cops and injectors, and wiring are off. Gonna tackle the crank pulley tomorrow and get the remaining bolts off the timing cover and pull the head...the #1 cylinder coolant seal was shot, you might be able to see from the picture how clean the #1 runner is compared to the rest of the cylinders. Are there any large auto parts chains may have the flywheel lockdown tool if my pulley clamp tool doesn't work? My impact wrenches didn't work either....I'm going to up the pressure on the regulator tomorrow....just realized it's only at 80psi.
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Old 02-16-2019, 08:48 PM
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Old 02-16-2019, 09:27 PM
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I have a large chain wrench (30” handle and about 24” chain) that I used to hold the crank pulley to loosen and retorque the crank bolt (which is one time use). My impact was useless on it, but two arms on two bars got it done. I bought the wrench on Amazon.
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:36 PM
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dukedkt442 I found a helpful Youtube video:
and happen to have the harbor freight 3 jaw puller so I'll try that tomorrow and take a page from you and grab a big breaker bar or length of steel pipe...all I had lying around the shop was pvc


Does anyone know if you have to pull the p/s pump and a/c compressor when pulling the timing cover (2004 f150 4.6l)
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:12 AM
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:43 AM
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Default Steel flat bar drilled for case hardened metric bolts ,grind center for crank bolt


This was for my 5.4l
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:19 PM
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:27 PM
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My eyes could be wrong but it looks like the #1 intake valve is bent just a tiny bit 1/16" ish. I'll have to call my machine shop tomorrow and get it rebuilt...anyone have a ballpark price of what you've paid or would expect to pay....I'm guessing 200-300$. The biggest headache of today was the exhaust manifold just because it's so tight clearance wise...I ended pulling the manifold with the head and disconnected it from the catalytic converter...the only other annoying part was the wiring and coolant connections on the back of the head.
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Old 02-20-2019, 11:22 AM
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Update:
I'm waiting on the machine shop to fix the head. It looks like when the #1 intake gasket failed it let coolant into the #1 runner and caused an overheating issue on the #1 cylinder. When we were checking it out at the machine shop the machinist said it look like the intake valve was tuliped (valve face stretched out and warped slightly causing it not to seal). Also I have to have him pull 2 pieces from the exhaust manifold studs from the head as 2 of the studs sheered off (back 2 closest to the firewall) so I'll get new exhaust studs as well. I pulled the exhaust manifold off with the head and I'll reinstall the same way as access to the lower studs is nonexistent. Other than that I have to clean up a bunch of ATF as I pulled the transmission dipstick (attached to the head) when I separated the head from the block. So I'm guessing I'm down about 2-3 quarts of atf. (1-2 on the floor 1 in the catch pan I checked the block and I have a Windsor block not a Romeo which was why the head I ordered didn't fit.
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Old 03-14-2019, 02:21 PM
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Update: finally got the head back and have started reassembling
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