Shift kit
#1
Shift kit
Looking to get my tranny rebuilt, I want this thing to be bullet proof, I have heard about shift kits but don't know how they work and what being its they bring to the table, is it possible to run a shift kit and a gryphon tuner at the same time?
#3
Sgt Shawshank
^ thats not what he asked. he like i would like to know about using a shift kit and a gryphon together, and since u said get a vb from troyer please explain why get that over gettin a shift kit, whats it cost, whats the benefits for the money spent, ya know the usuall questions one would have on deciding between the 2
#6
I have read about these valve body's an they look like a good option but it says they firm up your shifts, and that troyer can build you custom tunes for this valve body, I don't want to use troyer tunes I'd rather use the gryphon. And yes I would still like to know why It would be better to buy this valve body an not just get my tranny rebuilt with a shift kit! Besides the obvious reason of saving money, I'd rather have quality, money is no object.
#7
directly from troyer
I do NOT recommend installing a shift kit, separator plate, valve body, etc in the 4R75E transmission, as it does NOT have the deficiencies that the earlier 4R70W's and those way-old AOD-series or 4R100 series units have - the 4R75 is is physically capable of flowing much more fluid volume than all of those other trannies, which is why we can make it shift hard enough to jerk your neck off in them via tuning alone - we don't set them up like that, as it's not appropriate - but that can easily be done via tuning alone as they are capable of filling the clutch packs that quickly if calibrated that way.
The only time we recommend upgrading the 4R75E transmission is if you are going to exceed about 425-450 RWHP and use it in a performance application a,nd in that case, we recommend a complete performance build, to include additional clutches, upgraded hard parts, etc. But none of that is needed for the typical truck with bolt-on mods, or even with a supercharger, as the stock tranny, when *calibrated* correctly in the tuning, handles that power just fine to well above 400 RWHP - we have *many* trucks operating at those power levels and they aren't having any transmission issues.
All in all, that 4R75-E is a much better unit that all th other models, and what applies to all those other models you mentioned, in general, does not apply to the 4R75-E as it does not have those same weaknesses. It also has a very good transmission cooler, and before you think about changing that, first install a transmission temperature gauge with the probe correctly located so that you actually identify your transmission fluid temperatures - if they routinely exceed 200 degrees, *then* it's time to add on an *additional* trans oil cooler, and I would use one with a thermostatically controlled fan on it, and it needs to be the last cooler in line, so that the tranny fluid does not get overcooled, as it needs to hit a certain temperature to work properly. The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid in these newer Fords is 170 degrees, with peaks to 190 or so. It needs to reach at least 125 to do it's best job. We can help you with gauges & that type of cooler if need be.
this all leads me back to wanting to know about running a shift kit and a gryphon tuner at the same time, just forget about the valve body!
I do NOT recommend installing a shift kit, separator plate, valve body, etc in the 4R75E transmission, as it does NOT have the deficiencies that the earlier 4R70W's and those way-old AOD-series or 4R100 series units have - the 4R75 is is physically capable of flowing much more fluid volume than all of those other trannies, which is why we can make it shift hard enough to jerk your neck off in them via tuning alone - we don't set them up like that, as it's not appropriate - but that can easily be done via tuning alone as they are capable of filling the clutch packs that quickly if calibrated that way.
The only time we recommend upgrading the 4R75E transmission is if you are going to exceed about 425-450 RWHP and use it in a performance application a,nd in that case, we recommend a complete performance build, to include additional clutches, upgraded hard parts, etc. But none of that is needed for the typical truck with bolt-on mods, or even with a supercharger, as the stock tranny, when *calibrated* correctly in the tuning, handles that power just fine to well above 400 RWHP - we have *many* trucks operating at those power levels and they aren't having any transmission issues.
All in all, that 4R75-E is a much better unit that all th other models, and what applies to all those other models you mentioned, in general, does not apply to the 4R75-E as it does not have those same weaknesses. It also has a very good transmission cooler, and before you think about changing that, first install a transmission temperature gauge with the probe correctly located so that you actually identify your transmission fluid temperatures - if they routinely exceed 200 degrees, *then* it's time to add on an *additional* trans oil cooler, and I would use one with a thermostatically controlled fan on it, and it needs to be the last cooler in line, so that the tranny fluid does not get overcooled, as it needs to hit a certain temperature to work properly. The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid in these newer Fords is 170 degrees, with peaks to 190 or so. It needs to reach at least 125 to do it's best job. We can help you with gauges & that type of cooler if need be.
this all leads me back to wanting to know about running a shift kit and a gryphon tuner at the same time, just forget about the valve body!
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#8
Sgt Shawshank
i personally would go with the valve body, i do have some formal training on automatic transmissions, most of the time you wont have to rebuild one unless your putting down some major power. the reason for firming up the shifts is to keep the clutches from slipping so much and in turn keeps you from burning up the tranny. increasing line pressure which valve body's most of the time will help do, makes the pistons that hold the clutches hold firmer and in turn not allow them to slip again unless your making major power.
i personally will be gettin the valve body after i get the money saved up for one.
"If you are using a performance chip or programmer, you may (or may not) want to back down the light-throttle shift firmness levels"
now im assuming this because i only have an evo not a gryphon, that will come later, but with my evo i can adjust shift firmness i would assume the same can be done with gryphon tunes? i dont know this because i dont have one. but you dont have to use their tuning software,
what exactly are you doing with your truck to need a bullet proof transmission, i plan on running a whipple or an eaton blower and have talked with some of the guys that have them and they only suggest the VB and they are making good power numbers. tell me what your specific goal is powerwise to need a bullet proof tranny
i personally will be gettin the valve body after i get the money saved up for one.
"If you are using a performance chip or programmer, you may (or may not) want to back down the light-throttle shift firmness levels"
now im assuming this because i only have an evo not a gryphon, that will come later, but with my evo i can adjust shift firmness i would assume the same can be done with gryphon tunes? i dont know this because i dont have one. but you dont have to use their tuning software,
what exactly are you doing with your truck to need a bullet proof transmission, i plan on running a whipple or an eaton blower and have talked with some of the guys that have them and they only suggest the VB and they are making good power numbers. tell me what your specific goal is powerwise to need a bullet proof tranny
#9
Sgt Shawshank
where did you find this at from troyer i was unaware of this at the time a made my last post, my evo firmed up the shift but under wot they still arent as firm as id like them to be