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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

15W40 to the rescue!!!!

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Old 07-18-2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
The big question is what causes this issue in the first place. I believe it's coming down to oil and filter choice.
Lets not forget about user neglect though. Oil change intervals play a huge roll in all aspects of oil quality and continued capability.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:43 AM
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I listened to small car's start up cold rattle and knock on the 0w20 and 5w20 pure synthetic oils enough. Put in 0w30, 5w30, and guess what, the cold start up rattle and knock is gone. These are new motors right out of the show room lot. That rattle and knock is tappets and rods until they are pumped up with oil pressure. That takes 2-3-4 seconds of too much clearence in the oil film. Enough for me to never use it after break in of the motor. The first oil change goes to w30 pure synthetic, always for me. Loss of gas mileage is 2/10 mpg. Ford does it with the EB, hard worker, and fuel dilution due to cam overlap, extra fuel injected at cold start ups to quickly heat up the Catz. Same basic engine, built running down the same engine line in the same engine plants, just 5w30 in it. It's more about fleet OEM gas mileage and emissions than any thing else ( 0w20/5w20)! Only do it with pure high grade synthetic oil, not blended or regulars. They can't do what synthetic does.

Last edited by papa tiger; 07-18-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:12 AM
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Default My Issues and fixes for some

To: flybub

"It is a shame that the 5.4 3v motor has these issues. Just wait until you go to change your spark plugs....."

Buy the factory plugs because there has been an upgrade to a bad design. You do not specify which year you have so I cannot say this is true for you. I have a 2004 5.4 Triton 3V and there is definitely a modification to the factory plug. Found out about it by doing research before I bought this truck. Changed them out and it runs super.

I strongly DO NOT recommend anything but factory plugs unless you have modified your engine and it needs specific plugs.

Also, it's time to change your tranny fluid and filter. Use the best products you can find within specs. DO NOT OVERFILL because you will have bigger problems.

I am having TC P0010 and am going to try heavier oil even though I am reluctant to do so. Ford just may have goofed again to trick buyers into believing they get better gas mileage with lighter oil. If there are very long channels and cavities to lube then it makes sense to have heavier oil so the pump can push it farther with a more consistent flow of the proper amount to actuate the components inside that must feed information to the computer. (Whew)

I need to rebuild my rear end because Ford did not put very good seals in their trucks. I will buy the best I can find to put in there. I love FelPro, they make great stuff and back-up their products. I changed out the seals on the (bad taste in my mouth) Chevy intake to head seals for someone and they chose the regular seals over the FelPro permanent fix seals and then sold the truck because they knew it had to be done again in 50,000 or less.

Thank you for your time and 'Keep on truckin'.
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:15 PM
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My truck runs beautiful and has 120,000mi on it. I'm not not gonna bother fixing it. It's my livelihood and its time to start looking for a new or newer model.
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:21 PM
  #45  
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My tranny was jerking like crazy then I got a misfire on #4.

It is your igniters and boots. I had a misfire on the #4 and moved the igniter to #1 but not the boot and plug spring (master technician so I know how to troubleshoot these types of problems). It misfired again on #4 so the boot? I bought a set (8) for about $60.00 on-line because local Ford shop way too high on price.

When replacing boots and springs I noticed the tab the spring connects to heavily corroded. I cleaned with (R) Tri-Flow and after it started running much better I thought that the misfiring, not detected by computer, clogged up my combustion chambers and cat. I put 3 cans of BG 44K down my tank for next 2 tanks (2 cans for first tankful due to 28.6 gal tank then 1 can for half a tank and drove it on the highway to blow out) and my truck runs like brand new.

Long story short. Transmission is fine except for a little wear and tear from being so confused which gear it needed to be in based on the commands from the computer relying on the ignition spark to guide it.

I hope this helps a lot of people. Free of charge.
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:44 PM
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Mike, knock off this nonsense. I have read literally 4 threads that you posted the same exact response in. Most of these are 4-5 year old threads........
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:21 AM
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^^^X2^^^
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Summers22
Mike, knock off this nonsense. I have read literally 4 threads that you posted the same exact response in. Most of these are 4-5 year old threads........
"Summers22"-----What seems to be your problem?
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Old 01-14-2017, 01:24 PM
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You have copy and pasted the same paragraph in 5 threads, telling people your solution to their problem, when it doesnt even pertain to their problem at all. For instance, this thread is about oil, not transmissions or mis-fires.
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Old 01-14-2017, 01:42 PM
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I can't stand it when people resurrect the old threads. 90% of the people in this particular thread probably have moved on to different trucks by now.

Thanks for saving the day Mike
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