08 F150 bucking under load...plugs?
#32
Glad that plugs and coils fixed the problem. My 04 4.6L is acting the same way. I had the plugs changed 35k ago but the problem has just recently returned. Cost me $320 to get it done last time.
#33
Member
Thread Starter
What plugs did you put in last time? Also, did you do like everyone is saying and change the boots and springs also? That seems to be the trick to this issue. I have already seen a slight increase in mpg and a definite change in "felt" hp. No more sluggishness or "bucking" either.
#34
Don't know what kind of plugs they were took it to a shop. I can't reach beyond the front two plugs. Don't know how you all get to the back ones. 3/4 of mine are under the firewall
#35
Member
Thread Starter
#36
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Remove the ECU and bracket from the fire wall for better access to the passenger rear. Zip tie wires back out of the way.
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cnitty (05-15-2017)
#37
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Harbor freight --get cheap extensions and swivel head ratchet .
Get several lengths of extensions but use sparkplug rubber socket .
Number 4 is the worst ,you just have to put cardboard and cushions on hood latch and layup there ,do like techrep said . Be careful not to break stuff off like vcts etc .
The 3/8 swivel head will help but you just have to set your mind to the tough ones ,do the drivers side first, build your procedure on those easy ones . Start them all with your fingers ,it should feel right or back out and try again .
Don't use power tools you are not a pro .
I clean out spark hole tip area with carb cleaner first to remove heavy carbon around tip area . That carbon breaks plugs .
No need to use anti seize with new plugs it can cause trouble . Torque all plugs to 25 foot pounds do not go by feel .
These are alum heads be gentle with them you don't want to cross thread them , putting an insert in is very hard ,don't go there .
Number 4 is the worst ,you just have to put cardboard and cushions on hood latch and layup there ,do like techrep said . Be careful not to break stuff off like vcts etc .
The 3/8 swivel head will help but you just have to set your mind to the tough ones ,do the drivers side first, build your procedure on those easy ones . Start them all with your fingers ,it should feel right or back out and try again .
Don't use power tools you are not a pro .
I clean out spark hole tip area with carb cleaner first to remove heavy carbon around tip area . That carbon breaks plugs .
No need to use anti seize with new plugs it can cause trouble . Torque all plugs to 25 foot pounds do not go by feel .
These are alum heads be gentle with them you don't want to cross thread them , putting an insert in is very hard ,don't go there .
Last edited by redfishtd; 04-22-2017 at 11:54 AM. Reason: added note
The following users liked this post:
cnitty (05-15-2017)
#38
I did all 8 plugs from the top, the two very back ones are harder. Used a u joint and extensions. I'd also suggest to take an air nozzle and blow out all the **** from your plug holes BEFORE removing them. A lot of dust n grit gets in there. AFAIK, the cut off for revised head was around June 2008, there's a sticker on the front driver's valve cover.
#39
Mark
iTrader: (1)
I think I have a permenant mark from that damn hood latch.. I'll remove that next time too.