Josh Kunze

My truck is an 06 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6L, extended cab 6.5ft bed. 150,000 miles.

The brakes on my truck have started acting up. First off from time to time the pedal is very spongy. I especially notice this after backing up. Pump the pedal a few times and it's back.

Another issue is the brakes seem to be slow to release after I let off the pedal. For example, when I stop at a light, I can let off the brake pedal (no gas) and the truck doesn't move for 5-10 seconds. Then it will slowly start to roll.

The truck has all the original calipers, lines and fluid. Pads have been changed fairly recently and the parking brakes have been disabled. Because I live in rust country and they were completely seized. Shoes and cables removed, I plan to replace. Where do you guys suggest I start?

Thanks

nrivera04

Spongy pedal is likely due to air in the system. Slow to release likely means you have one or more calipers sticking. And as you describe living in the Rust Belt, trying to figure out which one is going to be fun.

bleed the brakes at a minimum and see if that gets your pedal back but be careful as if everything is Rusty, you might break the bleeder screws off the calipers. Could be just time to replace all four with rubber lines to boot. I'm glad I live in the south!

weadjust

The front caliper ceramic pistons cracked on my 06 @ about 140,000 miles causing the brake pads to not fully release from the rotor. Will also cause air in the brake system.

Google pic of cracked rear ceramic caliper piston. My front ceramic pistons looked very much like the one in the pic. Front caliper has two pistons per caliper and rear has one.

BigTater

Disc brake pad retraction is accomplished by square cut seals in the pistons from what I recall in auto school. If your brakes aren't releasing it could either be the calipers / pistons that failed, or I could see it being a problem with the master cylinder / vacuum boost.

Spongy pedal feel is typically due to air in the brake lines. This can be removed by bleeding and using the manufacturer suggested fluid. Remember start farthest from the master cylinder and move close. I.E. RR, RL, FR, FL. It is critical to keep the reservoir topped off during bleeding or you will be back to square one. If you don't get firm pedal after bleeding you have an air leak into the system somewhere.

Id start with a good thorough bleed and new fluid and go from there. Pressure bleeders make this easy for you to do solo. Crack the farthest bleeder wait for fluid to run clear. Rinse and repeat in order. A piece of clear tubing lets you observe the fluid coming out. Brake fluid should be very slightly yellow almost clear.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

There is a service interval for our brake system fluid.. and it's not 150K miles. Definitely do a flush while bleeding.

Josh Kunze

Yeah I knew it was overdue for a brake fluid change. Part of the reason I gave all the info.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll tear into it and see what I find. I'll post whatever I find.

Thanks,
Josh

FrozenTundraGuy

I get my brake fluid flushed every 3 years. The dealer thinks I'm on drugs (we never do that), but I did it on my last vehicle and only replaced the rear wheel cylinders @ 99K, still had original calipers. master cylinder, and ABS modulator. Honda recommends this on all of their vehicles (every 3 yrs), and I've used it on my non-Honda vehicles with great results, It's cheap brake insurance.


06 Screw Longbed 2wd 5.4 Trailer Tow Pkg

FrozenTundraGuy

The vehicle was over 18 yrs old when I sold it, and ran great(no brake issues) for the next owner for 2 yrs until he totaled it.

redfishtd

Rebuilt calipers usually best fix . But I would rebuild that emergency brake . I had to use mine several times .

techrep

iTrader: (1)

The Dealer needs to read his service manual