'04 - '08 Truck Picture Thread...
#4011
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Wesrespekt
I got the mounts from 4wheel parts, they drill in, and come with some nuts that seal it to prevent leaks
#4012
Originally Posted by shadydice
I really want to do it... I'm just nervous as hell about drilling holes in the roof... I also don't want the cheap racks that work off your door frame...
#4013
Animal Hoarder
So is there that much of a difference between 4.56's and 4.88's with 37" tires. It says RPM's would be at 2693 with 4.56's, and at 2882 with 4.88's. I was thinking about getting 4.88's, because I read that they would be better in the city (which I drive mainly). Although, wouldn't lower RPM's be better for the engine on the highway? Both are in the green on the chart, so I'm assuming both are alright, but now I don't know which one is better, or at least better for mostly city driving, and some highway.
So with 37's and 4.56 youd be at 2058 at 70mpg and 2202 for 4.88 at 70mpg. With 37's Id considered 5.13 which wouldnt only be 2315.
Ive been looking at this caculator: http://richmondgear.com/101032.html
#4016
Originally Posted by Wondertwin1
Why you guys running your antennas off the side of the toolbox??? Seems like it would hit EVERYTHING. Or is that your little truck groups way to recognize??
A bunch of people here were putting hollow arrows on the ends of theirs a few years ago
A bunch of people here were putting hollow arrows on the ends of theirs a few years ago
#4017
Wouldnt it be less actually? The chart says fourth is 1:1, but I think our trucks the over drive is 1:0.71 wich would lower the RPMS even more. Im contiplating 4.56 or 4.88 for 35's and Im kinda leaning towards 4.88.
So with 37's and 4.56 youd be at 2058 at 70mpg and 2202 for 4.88 at 70mpg. With 37's Id considered 5.13 which wouldnt only be 2315.
Ive been looking at this caculator: http://richmondgear.com/101032.html
So with 37's and 4.56 youd be at 2058 at 70mpg and 2202 for 4.88 at 70mpg. With 37's Id considered 5.13 which wouldnt only be 2315.
Ive been looking at this caculator: http://richmondgear.com/101032.html
#4018
"Lifted"
iTrader: (2)
I used this chart... A 4:30 gearing would be great for me but no reverse cut for the front.... 4:56 is debatable right now really a good move if i'm already at 14mpg... Gain power=loss mpg... So not only will I pay $1200 for gears/instal I'll be still loosing money if my mpg's drop like some of the other guys did...
Decisions decisions...
Decisions decisions...
#4019
Originally Posted by KingRanch4Life
I used this chart... A 4:30 gearing would be great for me but no reverse cut for the front.... 4:56 is debatable right now really a good move if i'm already at 14mpg... Gain power=loss mpg... So not only will I pay $1200 for gears/instal I'll be still loosing money if my mpg's drop like some of the other guys did...
Decisions decisions...
Decisions decisions...
#4020
"Lifted"
iTrader: (2)
I'll just wait till I have everything installed then do another test with all the weight and see if it affects my HP any when I tow... If that's not affected then i'm good to go with the 10-14mpg... I'm never home long enough to make a big dent in my pocket paying for gas so i'm still winning and justifies another reason not to regear..