uzikaduzi

FWIW it is thicker at start up than 5w30 but that doesn't necessarily mean 'superior'... it seems like it would make sense to have a more viscous oil for protection in general and to some extent that is true; however, at start up , that oil needs to quickly be moved on to moving parts at the top of the engine and a thicker oil can slow that... additionally tolerances are much tighter than when manufacturers recommended running different oils in the winter (i think there still are some different recommendations for places that get Alaska like winters) so that thicker oil has more of a challenge. I would assume that statement can't fairly be applied to all engines (and quite a few manufacturers are moving further away from that advice with 0w oils)

STingray1300

You're right, but not for the reasons you may have in mind... The very singular reason manufacturers are going with 5w or 0w oils is not engine protection but EPA mpg ratings. Nothing more.

Change your oil twice a year (whether it needs it or not) - once in the fall and once in the spring allows one to adjust viscosities relevant to one's climate/needs.

The viscosity of a 10w in warmer climates maintains the coating to metal engine parts better than 5w, and has minimal (if not non-existent) down sides in cold-start oil flow; as long as your oil pump is working properly.

LIExpy

We just had our oil changed with full synthetic by our local Ford dealer with ~4,500 on the clock. I have always done my own oil changes, but figured the cost of $70, I'm plan on having the dealership do the change while under powertrain warranty (60k miles), so that's a total of 12 oil changes. The Ford dealership is local, so it's convenient and have peace of mind that if I have any engine/turbo issues, it's all documented. If I was to change myself, I'd still go Full synthetic - Mobil one with the Motorcraft filter.

astrand1

I changed my oil at about 3k and went full syn. Using motorcraft filters. Everything I own that has a engine down to my 4 cycle weed wacker has full syn. Oil in it.

uzikaduzi

From what i've read, all oil viscosity are a compromise somewhere a thicker oil certainly would hurt fuel mileage but provide additional protection like you said, but a 5w30 and a 10w30 is the same viscosity at operating temps... start up viscosity would have relatively little affect on fuel economy. certainly a thicker oil offers greater protection but the trade off is flow characteristics and washing the top of the engine quickly is extremely important... many high dollar cars call for 0w40's which are thinner at start up and thicker at operating temps than what ford calls for... my guess with the 5w20 recommendation is that compared to 5w30 or thicker operating temp oils, you are exactly right, ford chose fuel economy over additional protection... comparing 0w, 5, and 10w... i can't believe it's about fuel economy and more about flow characteristics... the split second it takes to wash the top of your motor in oil is obviously a dangerous time and the quicker it's oiled the safer... certainly a thicker cold start oil would provide more protection, but it needs to be able to get there to protect it in the first place and then it's going to quickly thin out to the same viscosity when it hits operating temps if we're comparing 10w30 to 5w30... honestly, i doubt the difference between these 2 oils are very significant, but i'd argue, that a 5w and 10w are both providing more protection than the engine actually needs since both thin out considerably at operating temp and moving to a 0w30 would be better... if you wanted better protection at the cost of mpg's a 0w-40

STingray1300

tanked_darren

These threads are always chock full of "experts"

Anyways OP check this out

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm

zx12-iowa

They all have the same minimum specs called for by ford. Nobody here has likely ever had their engines go 500k-1m miles so it doesn't matter...

I use cheapest stuff. Walmart super tech or motorcraft on sale. Guarantee nobody will have an engine outlast mine for the time they own it.

I used to **** my money away on expensive oils but realized it just made me feel good and did nothing else. I also keep oil in until manual says to change it or oil indicator says to change (one diff is I change it earlier if many short winter trips and water can collect in oil).

So there you go. All this discussion is just that - no real difference that you will ever see

Wade88

You want to go 500k miles to my knowledge the cheapest way is to live in a place where it doesn't snow very much/no salt on the roads and buy an unrusty ~91-00 japanese 4 cylinder naturally aspirated manual transmission car. Have shepherded 2 such machines over 500k, a '96 hatch 5spd died a little after 619k, '91 equivalent of it still lives creeping on up to 600k. There is some luck and skill involved as well, to accumulate such mileage without getting hit by incompetent f***wits. Was the end of the '96, I reckon it had a good chance at 1,000,000 if it hadn't gotten hit by a drunk douche mongler. '91 will need major bodywork to not fall apart I think to get to 750,000 miles. Biggest single maintenance expense between them was replacing the entire hvac system in the '91 short of the controls and ducts. Is amazing how much money one can save getting ~35-44mpg depending on conditions with cheaper than dirt parts that don't break very often. Also, stupendously cheap personal property tax and insurance.

bassJAM

Old thread!!

I love reading these types of threads, it's very apparent that Mobil's marketing strategy works well in convincing so many that they are the absolute best lol.

It's also obvious a several folks need a better understanding on oil viscosity. I suggest starting here:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Check out the forums there as well, where you can find scientific data to back up which oils protect the best so you don't have to rely on an opinionated truck forum, where most of the expertise came from a TV commercial.