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Wet no2 on 5.0

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Old 01-07-2013, 01:02 AM
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Thanks whitescrew77! I better not go over a 75 shot then. I'll start out as small as I can. I DO like this engine so I wanna keep it happy, I just hate selling my stuff, I'd rather use it so once I get my tool box mounted I'll be starting the no2 install. I also have a water/meth kit in my garage too lol, I think I'm just gonna have to sell it though. Prolly be a little too much drugs for it haha.
Old 01-07-2013, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mgeistman
Thanks whitescrew77! I better not go over a 75 shot then. I'll start out as small as I can. I DO like this engine so I wanna keep it happy, I just hate selling my stuff, I'd rather use it so once I get my tool box mounted I'll be starting the no2 install. I also have a water/meth kit in my garage too lol, I think I'm just gonna have to sell it though. Prolly be a little too much drugs for it haha.
i was gonna do a water meth on my 5.4 but heard it was garaunteed engine death lol
Old 01-07-2013, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SHORTSTACK
I agree with the wet shot. Id never run dry on anything. If a 2.2 sohc vtech honda motor can handle a 150 shot, im sure a 5.0 could handle a 100. But as mentioned starting off gently would be your best bet. What wet system do you have? I had zex with a ecu that kicked in at a selected rpm in every gear. It was an automatic. Im interested to see what you end u with. I have a 4.6 and im not happy with the power, or lack there of. I would like to have a little more and wet systems arent that expensive.
I also have a zex, mine is not electronic controlled though. It arms, purges, and at full throttle sprays. I'm not real keen on electronics controlling injectibles Bc of the harsh off road environments I'm constantly in. I'm gonna keep it as simple as possible. No room for error. I've herd that the new engines can't handle much more hp than what they make factory so I'm not gonna spray much.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LaBalaDePlata
i was gonna do a water meth on my 5.4 but heard it was garaunteed engine death lol
Yea prolly not good for a naturally aspirated engine lol.
Old 01-07-2013, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mgeistman

Yea prolly not good for a naturally aspirated engine lol.
yea so im going cam instead.
Old 01-07-2013, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by LaBalaDePlata
yea so im going cam instead.
Really? Details please? I've been thinking about it also!
Old 01-07-2013, 07:28 AM
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I think almost any engine can handle a 100 wet shot. I ran a 100 wet Top Gun kit on my stock bottom end Fox body 4 years. I matched the fuel and nitrous jets per mfg recommended as it was rich for safety. I experimented with leaning the fuel jet down right before I pulled the motor and the rotating assy looked fine (125k miles). Picked up a few tenths. Key is to start small, run good gas, and bench test the solenoids. A diesel is more forgiving with nitrous if you have the fuel turned up. Black smoke is unburnt fuel. Nitrous adds oxygen to burn it. I say fog the 5.0 but start small and check the plugs. I have even kicked around hiding a kit on my truck. I got this buddy with a big mouth and a Trailblazer SS that wants to race my mustang.... I would love to surprise him at the track by dropping the trailer and beating him with my truck.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mgeistman

Really? Details please? I've been thinking about it also!
i have a 5.4 tho, ford racing hot rod cam drops right in
Old 01-07-2013, 10:49 AM
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I would say check the mustang forums. Knowing those crazy dudes over there powerhousing the 5.0. The engine in the truck is slightly different but all internals are the same. Good luck.
Old 01-07-2013, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mgeistman
I'm asking about the block, pistions, crank, ect. What will it hold up too? Would a 100hp shot be safe? I have no clue what the new 5.0's are capable of?
block is same for all 5.0 variants and boosted BOSS versions have supported over 800rwhp. Pistons in the Mustang GT and the F150 are hyper, rods are powdered metal and the crank is forged. Since Ford racing will install a blower on a GT that puts out over 600bhp with a warranty, my guess is the bottom end will easily support a 100shot, especially a wet shot.

The new 5.0 also has a brand new aluminum cylinder block and heads designed to maximize performance while keeping weight down. Both have been carefully designed using both finite element analysis (FEA) and computational fluid dynamics (CFD) tools. The FEA tools have allowed the engineers to design in strength where it's needed while removing material where it's not. The result is a block that's heavily ribbed for rigidity and a deep crank-case that extends down to the bottom of the crankshaft. The 5.0 has four-bolt main bearing caps and the deep crank-case allows the side bolts to fit through the wall into caps that add extra rigidity and support. The configuration happens to be similar to that used on General Motors' LS9 and LSA engines in the ZR1 and CTS-V. Cast-iron cylinder liners, meanwhile, are pressed into the aluminum block to insure a good wearing surface.

The crankshaft is made of forged steel and is fully counter-weighted to aid smoothness. The connecting rods are forged powdered metal and the pistons are hyper-eutectic (translation: they contain a higher concentration of silicon, which helps reduce thermal expansion). As a result, the tolerances between the piston and bore can be tighter and allow for better sealing. Another change made to improve reliability and durability is cast-in coolant crossovers. In the past, a separate tube was inserted to provide a path for coolant to cross from one bank to the other, which added an extra assembly process as well as increasing the potential for leaks.
http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/28/d...ll-new-5-0-v8/


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